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Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I get the head off without removing studs looks pretty close. I will take the head to machine shop to surface and maybe even check for cracks, since I heard 24 valve heads like to crack sometimes. Will probably do a valve job and new seals at the same time. Not sure about ringing the head. The T at the back of the head, what's the best way going about it. Thanks for any advice. I will probably be lining up parts for a while and keep driving the truck,  unless it gets real bad or just blows out. I'm guessing there is an oil passage somewhere up front, just not sure how it's getting pushed out, oil pump pressure? Does it have something to do with coolant, I don't think I'm using any, maybe a little I had to put about a quart in the other day, will keep an eye on it. 

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Edited by Dieselfuture

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  • Dieselfuture
    Dieselfuture

    Alright guys and gals, got my turbo today. I'm giving it 9 out of 10 and this is before driving the truck. Came with cnc machined beer opener. On first glance it looks good, on closer observation I've

  • Dieselfuture
    Dieselfuture

    Trying to get valves out so I can take this thing in to shop. What's the best way to release keepers, I usually slightly tap on them and they  come apart, but these are stubborn. @TFaoro @jlbayes @trr

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Just remembered, I got some oil that ended up in a block when I removed the head.  My plan is just fill it with water for initial start up, and keep the thermostat out just put the oring in, and once I get it started and running, park slightly down hill, undo top radiator hose from radiator, shove a garden hose in radiator fill and let it run for a while like that. 

Another thing we used to do, is fire up a fresh rebuild motor with no coolant at all for maybe a minute or two just so gasket stick better to surface. Any thoughts. 

  • Author

Well just waiting on turbo now, hopefully I got it all in the right place, will find out, kinda excited now. Is there a time limit on braking in head gaskets,  I never did before just usually took it to the track following weekend. 

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Nice looking engine bay! What intake horn is that?

 

Also, what's the hose coming out of the oil fill cap used for?

48 minutes ago, notlimah said:

 

 

Also, what's the hose coming out of the oil fill cap used for?

Oil bypass return line is my guess. What setup are you using @Dieselfuture?

  • Author

@notlimah @BBHD intake horn is CFM plus, carbon fiber finish made out of some composite. Got it when I first bought the truck, not sure if I'd do it again for my set up. Probably good idea when you're trying to squeeze every hp out, not in mild application. But o well I got one now. One good thing it has multiple threaded ports, one I'm using for boost guage. 

Amsoil BMK21 single bypass, ( using eabp90 filter) I made a mount for it and welded it to the frame kinda under turbo, makes it easy to access from under the truck. I didn't like the idea of mounting it to apps bracket, no room and will make a mess.

I've been looking into doing a bypass system on mine as well but like you I did want to mount the filter in the typical spots. 

16 hours ago, TFaoro said:

Compound VE turbos.... Fastest spooling compounds ever.

 

I need to find a junker 12v and have nick help me make compound VEs.

 

With choke to go along with it.....

16 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

 

With choke to go along with it.....

Ain't care. Tow pig, not a race truck.

Be one heck of an exhaust brake though!

The idea for this one too but I want SIMPLE. Not a silly controller and a temperamental turbah. Funny story....the 12v doesn't stop any worse with a trailer attached than it does with out one. SMFH

1 hour ago, jlbayes said:

The idea for this one too but I want SIMPLE. Not a silly controller and a temperamental turbah. Funny story....the 12v doesn't stop any worse with a trailer attached than it does with out one. SMFH

:lmao:  At least you have the hydroboost brakes right??

They are simple! @Me78569 you had any issues with your turbo in the last year?

nadda turbo runs great, has since day 1.   It's kinda like the VP44, you tell it what to do and it does it.    You would have to pry it out of my cold dead hands at this point.  HOWEVER I am perfectly happy with my 400 hp truck lol

1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

:lmao:  At least you have the hydroboost brakes right??

They are simple! @Me78569 you had any issues with your turbo in the last year?

 

Yes thank god.

 

Ain't care. I have a ve sitting on the shelf. Where it belongs. Me thinks this will be my primary. 176176

  • Author

Adjusted valves yesterday to 8/18 rotated the motor by alternator counterclockwise  (by the way crank turns counterclockwise also) and they were almost all at 10/20 so I readjusted them again and rotated it again, this time they stayed at 8/18, just so you know. Things had to settle. 

  • Author

Zach from North American Turbo just called me little bit ago and my turbo is done and on its way, and I should have it tomorrow. I'm extrimly happy with the service, can't wait to see it and actually use it, then I'll know more. It was 900 bucks shipped to me. Saved a 100 compare to k27, got to keep exhaust brake, my old turbo that I just rebuild, and it will support up to 500hp according to Zach. If I can have a safe 400hp I'd be very happy. So hopping this weekend I'll know a lot more. @jlbayes thanks again for pointing me in right direction. The turbine is from h1e from 10 liter diesel.

You are very much welcome. I hope it meets or exceeds your expectations.

  • Author

Just came across this on other site, didn't realize the acceptable range. Not sure if I'd trust it.

 

Acceptable Intake lash range: 0.006 in. (0.152 mm) to 0.015 in. (0.381 mm)
Acceptable Exhaust lash range: 0.015 in. (0.381 mm) to 0.030 in. (0.762 mm )

If the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/resetting is not necessary. Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or level of engine noise.

They are correct. There is a range. And there is a difference in noise. On every truck I have ever adjusted.

On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 at 0:27 PM, jlbayes said:

 

Yes thank god.

 

Ain't care. I have a ve sitting on the shelf. Where it belongs. Me thinks this will be my primary. 179176

 

Slight correction to the turbah part number.

5 hours ago, jlbayes said:

 

Slight correction to the turbah part number.

Seems mighty tight on the exhaust side. 1.1 T4 twin scroll exhaust housing with an 87 wheel

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