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Hey guys,

 

I cant find the thread I was reading where you all were talking about the PSG being the actual 65HP limitation /w the smarty or non wire tap programmers on the vp44. I got interested and I found a lot of info out there, primarily some french guys where I used google to translate. showing clips to read the 24 series eeprom with 3M clips. They eventually caught on that you could put 5v to one of the legs on the chip and make it no longer read-only (this is common, and I suspected it). Because their forum is invite only I couldnt download their diagrams or documentation they created. I also found some Indian website that showed how to read/write to the PSG /w an arduino, including wiring diagrams and so fourth. I cant find that in my history now either, but its in there somewhere. Anyways, here's the french lads that tackle read/write to the PSG. Every time they say "code", i think they mean "encrypted". I tried to join the French board but it seems to be invite only.

 

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tlemcen-electronic.com%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D12157

 

So bottom line is, I think we could read & write from the eeprom. The question is who is going to modify the code. I know somebody was saying it was encrypted, and that wouldnt surprise me, but it sounded like the french lads were pulling it encrypted. If we could find out what it's encrypted with, and we rented some Amazon AWS servers, run a linux shell to brute force it or rainbow table it, whatever it be. I have to guess that 1998 encryption schemes would be very crackable these days. The Geforce 1080 is no joke /w 2x the power of the 980 and half the power consumption. I saw 3M connectors to read from it without taking it off the board. It sounds like they wrote to it by enabling 5v on the correct pin/leg of the chip (I dont know which exactly b/c I couldnt get to their attachments), but soldering a new one on /w a fresh flash is something I imagine could be more convenient. I did come across pin diagrams for the chip on either their site or another. I dont know if you'd have to take the 5v away from it after the write, but by the way they talked it didnt sound like it. Hard to tell through translation, though.

 

Other interesting links:
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.vp44diesel.de/de/pumpen-vp44-psg-16&prev=search

http://codecard.eu/carprog/software/by-obdii-for-opel-psg16-diesel-pump-read/repair-mileage-read-pin-reset-ecu/prod_375.html

I requested an invite code, see post #6 here http://mhhauto.com/Thread-zafira-pump-psg16-replacement-and-programming

Cheapest place I have seen carprog http://www.ecutool.com/CARPROG-FULL-with-all-Softwares-Activated-and-all-21-Adapters_8243.html#5

 

Essentially I recently became knee deep in this hobby. I have a 98.5 24v /w D&J motor built to 700hp spec /w CNC'd head on intake & exhaust, 62/68/0.80 + S475/96/1.32 twins, currently running 50hp inectors /w new Edge Juice Comp with smarty SO3 on the side. I have 120hp DDP injectors next to me that just got backfrom warranty, which Lenny looked at personally. The first time around Brian handled it. I've spent a lot of time fixing drive pressure and boost pressure leaks, I think they are 99% sorted based on the performance I'm feeling. I need to do another boost test leak. More on things: 5" down pipe, mishi rad & intercooler, banks monster intake, blah blah. Still only seeing 43lbs of boost. Without the wiretap I only saw 28 psi max on a brand new Industrial Injection VP44. After putting my old pump back on, that is wiretapped, I once again saw 43psi. This is what enlightened me to the necessity of having proper fueling. I'm so far into this VP44 platform now that I wont be switching to CP3, unfortunately. Got it all mated to a Firepunk Comp I in a ext cab LB chassis. I paid some guys to work on my truck and was so let down that I learned the hard way, the only way is to do it yourself.

 

I come from a background of computers and dirt bikes. My dad was a firmware/software/hardware engineer who came to the US from Australia. Due to him being an alcoholic I wouldnt waste my time asking for his advice, but once upon a time he was very smart knowing low level stuff like assembly (programming), layers to protocols, making PCB's, soldering them all up, programming them all up, etc. Credit card readers & bill acceptors seemed to be his bread and butter primarily. Also some assembly line stuff like productivity displays, etc. For roughly 20 yrs he worked solo as his own contractor. 

 

Perhaps this could lead somewhere? I'm considering sending back my II VP44 for a hodrod pump, seeing as my tapped reman VP44 that came on the truck is running just as good & better with the wiretap. I had previously bought the new std output VP44 from II as a method to troubleshoot a hard-start condition when (almost) eveyrthing else had been tried. Turned out to be a drive pressure leak @ the 90* hot pipe connecting the turbos -- I fixed it, and the truck starts as it should.


Sorry if this is in the wrong section.

 

 

 

 

 

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  • they prob kill themselves after dealing with all the oddities of the electoronics.  

  • If you came into my shop to have a transmission built, with a 62mm top turbo and that large-housing S475 on the bottom, I would recommend a stock stall speed converter. I would recommend either a Goer

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I've been around the web but I haven't come across writeups on the mod. I would just like it now for when it's pitch black on the interstate. I'm in Gillette currently getting gas.  In the last 211 mi I got 12.5mpg exactly.

 

Weigh ticket reads

Steer axle 4700lb.

Drive axle 6120lb

Trailer axle 11500lb

Gross weight 22320lb

 

Attachments never work from my phone on here

Edited by rogerash0

  • Owner
8 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

Attachments never work from my phone on here

 

Send in a support ticket we'll look into it...

8 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

I've been around the web but I haven't come across writeups on the mod. I would just like it now for when it's pitch black on the interstate. I'm in Gillette currently getting gas.  In the last 211 mi I got 12.5mpg exactly.

1

 

I've done the sport headlights with relay mod.

 

I've four 100w aircraft landing lights with relay mod. 

 

After all said and done... HID headlights blow the doors off of any stock headlight mod out there right now. Trust me its worth the extra money and just change over to HID lighting and skip the whole britebox idea or relay mods. I drive 250 miles every other day from New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR and back New Meadows, ID. I know what you mean about dark. 

 

 

  • Author

I've had hid 55w and 35w and they were almost too bright. The 55w was too bright. The spread pattern was crap. The ddm tuning 55w failed after a slight wash under the hood from when my tranny line blew. 

 

My engine oil was in the words "add" on the dipstick just now. I est 1 to 1.5qts low. I maintained oil pressure the whole time driving. When I am low on oil like that, below the safe zone, is the motor ok bc there is oil pressure but the oil cooling capacity is reduced bc there is less/low oil in the engine? Thx

Edited by rogerash0

44 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

I've had hid 55w and 35w and they were almost too bright. The 55w was too bright. The spread pattern was crap. The ddm tuning 55w failed after a slight wash under the hood from when my tranny line blew. 

 

My engine oil was in the words "add" on the dipstick just now. I est 1 to 1.5qts low. I maintained oil pressure the whole time driving. When I am low on oil like that, below the safe zone, is the motor ok bc there is oil pressure but the oil cooling capacity is reduced bc there is less/low oil in the engine? Thx

 

your fine. These engines will take serious abuse and keep on chugging. I can attest to having lost a vp-44 front seal and gave my engine a srubb bath with a custom mix of diesel and engine oil. took a year's worth of oil changes to get the diesel (the green tint) out of the engine oil.

I have seen mine that low pretty regular until I resealed the vacuum pump.

On 11/5/2017 at 9:36 AM, rogerash0 said:

I've had hid 55w and 35w and they were almost too bright. The 55w was too bright. The spread pattern was crap. The ddm tuning 55w failed after a slight wash under the hood from when my tranny line blew.

 

Mike is talking about a retrofit, not a pnp drop in bulb. 

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  • Author

Right on, ya. Had a great day at Firepunk Diesel in the sticks of Ohio. Laid down 653.4hp with the 225 Mach 6 injectors from F1 Diesel, on the first pull. Truck doesn't like timing, it made the most hp with timing on 2. I should have tried timing on 1 (stock). Tq was about 1200-1250 depending. 455hp was the best with the "50" hp injectors.

Thanks jl, I've seen his thread and checked out the setup when he posted it. $$

@jlbayes  interesting about the timing causing lower HP.  

 

The fuel only record for vp, was that a out of the box comp or did edge write something up?

Which electronics Ash? Did they data log your runs?

 

Out of the box drag comp. @Me78569

 

Edited by jlbayes

he is using the edge comp cts with the "juice timing" control

We would still need to see a log as to what it was actually doing. I would suspect it is just the ramp rate adjustment. Not actual control of the timing.

  • Author

This is my tuner, however it's the 98.5-00 model

https://edgeproducts.com/shop/01-02-dodge-5-9l-cummins-competition-juice-w-attitude-cs2

 

I have a print sheet and pics of the Dyno screen that the print sheet is of. I logged the runs on the edge, but I doubt that will show us the ramp rate of timing you are talking about, unless that's contained in some variable I am unaware of.

 

We also put a mechanical boost gauge on and i saw a Max of 53 or 55. It looked to move and reflect boost numbers quite differently to the one on the edge screen, but it was all happening very fast. We did three baseline pulls and four with the 220 sticks.

  • Author

Final graph

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19lW0vjyXGYZKbCg3sF-SnvIT2L_Asmh6/view?usp=drivesdk

 

Truck on Dyno

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1on3ks9mzf7oZT5_kHEYEsRJ4Oa5iYvtZ/view?usp=drivesdk

 

First dyno with 8 hole "50hp" injectors according to the PO.  The dip represents tc unlock which was commanded by the PCM. Lavon hooked up the snapon reader and looked at tps signal and speed sensor from the rear diff. Signals were good and didn't drop off, so it was the pcm commanding unlock when going straight  to WOT after lavon established load and about 45mph if I recall correctly, in third gear.

 

I need a TC lockup switch really bad if u guys know how to install one. I think Lavon said just pin 20 to ground at the PCM but I didn't quite catch it when we were in the truck, on the dyno.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ig06fcRxImtX3Xh65WNc0kxJ4Oc994z8/view?usp=drivesdk

Edited by rogerash0

Google drive is blocked for me here at work.

 

Pin B11, orange with black tracer.

  • Author

Perfect thanks. This board won't upload pics from my phone and I couldn't find a good easy img upload site after trying two so I resorted to drive...

  • Owner

High Megapixel pictures tend to fail. If there are scaled down then they typically upload fine. What it is the site attempts to take your uploaded photo and process it down to 1024x1024 to keep photos from eating up the storage space fast. Photo are getting so large now the server chokes on the large files and kick the error message. Even my cell phone does the same thing. 

I always resized photos to 5mp before uploading them here and it worked fine. But on this phone is just got I can't seen to find option to do so.

  • Author

Coming from web design background in my youth, the very first thing in tried to so was resize the pic and upload it again. I resized it and it failed... I can't remember what res I set it to but generally 800x600 or 1024x768 is plenty big even on today's monitors for just pics on forum boards. Maybe I'll try again later but I tried a ton so patience ran out.

Edited by rogerash0

  • Author

Hey on the quadzilla tablet I'm using, under vehicle selection, there is no v2.7 unless I select 2.7 "v2 quadzilla test only 2". So I've been using 2.5 "v2 Dodge 1998-2002".

 

I did update the dongle with the latest 2.7 before I ever used the unit. Also when I tried to setup my own custom tuning if it was lower than 100% the truck would bah bah bah bah like a lope/lug/misfire at idle in park if I gave it some gas. It couldn't overcome itself. I tried from say 70% to 99% and it always seemed to do that. So I've been running the default Custom Tuning Profile.

 

It has Mach 6 "220hp" injectors from F1 Diesel now. 

 

Any tips appreciated. I haven't had much time to play with it but I've been using it. Much smoother than the edge and less smoke. Feels as or more powerful I think but I don't have a ton of time on it