Well I thought the truck was running good... It sat last night and most of today and I went to start her and she fired first crank but idle extremely erratic and had a nasty lope and unloaded a mass cloud of white smoke... New injectors went in a week and a half ago and all seemed well until the lift pump failed. I'm thinking the LP took the VP too. Fuel pressure went straight to 20 psi so that's not a issue. Ran the key trick and got P1693 and then -------- and then P Done. checked for codes and found nothing. 

10 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Now do a bit of hand math and see if that is true...

Yep just got to run this tank out. 

If you get a small notebook and keep it in your console you can keep the fuel and mileage wrote down and then spreadsheet it later to see tends. 

 

Here is one of my old ones.

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If you get a small notebook and keep it in your console you can keep the fuel and mileage wrote down and then spreadsheet it later to see tends. 

 

Here is one of my old ones.

I have done that! Although it has fluctuated a lot I think it’s prob because of degrading injectors 

Maybe... Maybe not. Just your driving style and road speed will have a huge impact in if you gain one day or lose big time. Even with my old stock injectors I could squeak out 17-19 MPG even though they only popping at about 240-260 Bar. Not optimal but still capable of getting OK MPG numbers if I really tired. Now if I horsed around or was aggressive driving that number would fall quickly. 

45 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Maybe... Maybe not. Just your driving style and road speed will have a huge impact in if you gain one day or lose big time. Even with my old stock injectors I could squeak out 17-19 MPG even though they only popping at about 240-260 Bar. Not optimal but still capable of getting OK MPG numbers if I really tired. Now if I horsed around or was aggressive driving that number would fall quickly. 

I drove a 150 mile round trip yesterday and got 16.3 mpg tips and it was about 38 40 degrees Fahrenheit 

About right. Remember cold air will cause the ECM to over advance timing in the winter hence the MPG mode on my switch. The only other way is I get that Quadzilla and gain full control of the timing.

 

This is why I always laugh about the cold air intake.

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

About right. Remember cold air will cause the ECM to over advance timing in the winter hence the MPG mode on my switch. The only other way is I get that Quadzilla and gain full control of the timing.

 

This is why I always laugh about the cold air intake.

Yup that’s never noticed any mpg gain when I got the BHAF. I didn’t have the mpg switch on I wish I would

have. 

If the IAT temperature is below 80*F the ECM can kick in up to 3-4* of advancement of timing which typically is too much. Once you reach about 90 to 140*F the optimal MPG starts to shine. Remember the diesel needs the cylinder warmth to cause the fuel atomized spray to vaporize and go bang in a timely. If the air is too cold then the ignition occurs later (retarded). So this where Dodge's lab tech came up with this idea. Problem though is that the only thing the ECM can't measure is CETANE so if your local fuel is still high cetane and the timing is racked up then your over advancing. This why my winter tune I was RETARDING about 1.5* below stock. Still able to reach 20 MPG in near zero weather. 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If the IAT temperature is below 80*F the ECM can kick in up to 3-4* of advancement of timing which typically is too much. Once you reach about 90 to 140*F the optimal MPG starts to shine. Remember the diesel needs the cylinder warmth to cause the fuel atomized spray to vaporize and go bang in a timely. If the air is too cold then the ignition occurs later (retarded). So this where Dodge's lab tech came up with this idea. Problem though is that the only thing the ECM can't measure is CETANE so if your local fuel is still high cetane and the timing is racked up then your over advancing. This why my winter tune I was RETARDING about 1.5* below stock. Still able to reach 20 MPG in near zero weather. 

I think my Obdlink will measure IAT right? I need to see what it is. If it’s to low how can u lower it?

Just now, Marcus2000monster said:

I think my Obdlink will measure IAT right?

 

Yes. 

 

Just now, Marcus2000monster said:

I need to see what it is. If it’s to low how can u lower it?

 

Actually, this when you break out with a winter front and keep the cold air off the intercooler so to allow some of the turbo heat to make it to the intake. You don't want ro lower the IAT but to raise it. Again optimal is 100-140*F for MPG purpose.

 

As for the timing aspect use the MPG fooler. That will retard timing. If you had a Quadzilla you can just program your timing. 

11 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yes. 

 

 

Actually, this when you break out with a winter front and keep the cold air off the intercooler so to allow some of the turbo heat to make it to the intake. You don't want ro lower the IAT but to raise it. Again optimal is 100-140*F for MPG purpose.

 

As for the timing aspect use the MPG fooler. That will retard timing. If you had a Quadzilla you can just program your timing. 

Oops I meant raise it ha! Yep I’m hoping to get a Qaud soon! Almost bought the Smarty in the classifieds but I did t wanna disappoint myself lol. 

4 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Almost bought the Smarty in the classifieds but I did t wanna disappoint myself lol. 

 

You would be... Trust me after running Quadzilla untapped for 1 year (waiting for the VP44 warranty to die) then hooking up the wire tap is night and day difference. Like my maximum boost pressure, just CANBus is 28-30 PSI. Wiretapped is now 45 PSI. WAY more fuel than any CANBus tuner can produce. 

 

Which I've got a boost controller coming from China and be here on Friday.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/361900309685

 

Then once I gain control of the wastegate better I'm going to rebuild my CANBus fuel table to keep from hitting the EGT limits. Like @Me78569 mention in another post you should be able to control your fuel table enough to prevent needing backdown limits. Once I do that I should be able to hold it to the floor and not have to worry about EGT.

11 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I drove a 150 mile round trip yesterday and got 16.3 mpg tips and it was about 38 40 degrees Fahrenheit 

Was it all highway, stop and go, secondary roads or what? All this will make big difference in mileage. 

55 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

As for the timing aspect use the MPG fooler. That will retard timing. If you had a Quadzilla you can just program your timing. 

 

What do you still use you're MPG fooler for Mike? I still have mine installed still but with the quad now, I'm wondering what are the pros to having it still? Mainly just 3cyl high idle is all I can think of??

1 minute ago, notlimah said:

I still have mine installed still but with the quad now, I'm wondering what are the pros to having it still? Mainly just 3cyl high idle is all I can think of??

 

That's about it. Quadzilla doesn't use IAT temperature for tuning value as far as I know. So the MPG fooler has no value on the Quadzilla. Quadzilla provides a 6 CYL mode which you can terminate sooner that 170*F which is nice for fuel savings. But the switch is the only one that can provide 3 CYL mode on command. 

20 minutes ago, dripley said:

Was it all highway, stop and go, secondary roads or what? All this will make big difference in mileage. 

Curvy highway 40 to 70 mph 

4 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Curvy highway 40 to 70 mph

 

For highway like that I find a speed that I can travel most of the road that doesn't require huge drops braking in speed and then acceleration again. Basically what your doing is converting you forward energy into heat on the brakes and then accelerating again back to set speed again. I've got a 17 mile stretch of road from Tamarack Mill to Council, ID which is posted 55 MPH which I know I can run that speed but every corner I would be hammering down the brakes to make the corners. So I back down to 50 MPH most of the corners I can make and if I plan right and back off the throttle I can coast to the tighter corners and get around without wasting the energy on hitting the brakes. 

 

 

Edited April 9, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

1 hour ago, notlimah said:

 

What do you still use you're MPG fooler for Mike? I still have mine installed still but with the quad now, I'm wondering what are the pros to having it still? Mainly just 3cyl high idle is all I can think of??

I still use it for grids, so they don't cycle too long in colder temp but still cycle some to aid. I'll be unhooking them soon all together at relay grounds. And need to find someone around here to enable my 3/6cly may just rent Smarty some day I guess it's not on my number one list as I don't use that option often. Just be nice to have it since I got the switch. 

13 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Maybe... Maybe not. Just your driving style and road speed will have a huge impact in if you gain one day or lose big time. Even with my old stock injectors I could squeak out 17-19 MPG even though they only popping at about 240-260 Bar. Not optimal but still capable of getting OK MPG numbers if I really tired. Now if I horsed around or was aggressive driving that number would fall quickly. 

Think the turbo play is so

ething to do with mpg? 

29 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I still use it for grids, so they don't cycle too long in colder temp but still cycle some to aid. I'll be unhooking them soon all together at relay grounds. And need to find someone around here to enable my 3/6cly may just rent Smarty some day I guess it's not on my number one list as I don't use that option often. Just be nice to have it since I got the switch. 

 

If my Smarty doesn't sell here soon I'll send it out your way so you can flash it and then just send it back to me.