Well I have finally came up with a solution for the dreaded torque management that has plagued us 2nd gen owners for decades, and best of all its free. It all happened by accident actually. I opened up my trans due to some funny shifting issues and found every screen inside it was full of metal shavings. Which obviously meant that they got past the filter but more on this later. I cleaned all the solenoids and sensors of the metal and the little screens that protected them along with installing a new filter and fluid. Everything was good for about 2 weeks then all of a sudden after i left a drive thu i lost all forward gears. I messed around with it for a little while (like 4 hours) trying to figure out what happened. If I let the truck sit for a minute or 5 off i would get line pressure and could move the truck about 200 ft before losing all gears again. However when i would lose all forward gears and the truck was stationary i would only be able to rev the truck to 2000 rpm (basically felt as if it was in neutral) but if it was in park or neutral i could go balls to the wall 3700. So after quite a while a friend towed me home and i couldn't find anything on what my problem was. There were only about 5 forums were people had the exact same symptoms. One of them suggested it was a clogged filter and everything settled back into the pan after being off for a few minutes. So $6 later in a new filter and some new fluid i had laying around it was once again going better than the day i bought the truck. This is when i began thinking of the weird rev to 2k in drive but 3700 in N or P. I also noticed when trying to do a burnout or 4x4 launch in the past 2 years of owning the truck i could only build up to 2000 rpm before it started cutting fuel, then upon launch it would start bucking (I'm sure we've all been there) then pull like a mule.

 

This led me to my idea, I crawled under the truck today and pulled off the connector to the neutral/reverse switch and found out which pin is for the neutral safety switch (its the top 2 pins). I then shorted the 2 wires together with a paperclip and went for a test drive. The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before. I went into an abandoned dirt parking lot, put it in 4x4, and began to mash the brake and accelerator. The truck very quickly got to about 2500 rpm and about 30-35 lbs of boost. At this moment i knew it had worked. I built boost again and launched the truck, I had full fuel off the line with no bucking whatsoever, next I did a burnout with the same result. The only problem i ended up having is after about 20-30 minutes the truck threw a p1899 code for the switch being shorted which defaulted the computer and turned TM back on. However if you put it on a toggle switch you would be able to turn off TM at any time, and shut it back off before the computer knows while retaining all your gauges vs other options out on the market. Also if the neutral switch is "On" you will not be able to use cruise control so a switch would be the best option. 

 

I still have some more testing to do but this fix has worked every time I have tried it so far. This was my experience with my own experiment on my truck, if you would like to attempt this you do so at your own risk. It fuels fast and it fuels hard. If you have any questions feel free to ask  

 

interesting, TM might not be considered when the pcm thinks it is in park.  

 

 

Edited March 28, 20187 yr by Me78569

Begs the question, what else may affect torque management? Maybe something that can be permanent. Good find though for sure.

@Me78569 I can tell you for 100% fact it is not considered. I spun all 4 on the wet pavement, let at about 25-30 psi of boost and 2200 ish rpm when i was on the road. Went a little higher in the dirt. I was honestly amazed at how simple the solution was. 

Is your  switch a 3 wire switch on the trans?

Edited March 28, 20187 yr by Me78569

@Me78569 Yes mine is the 3 wire switch 

humm @kzimmer   you able to reproduce with your truck?

@kzimmer It will be as simple as getting a solid core wire and connecting the middle and top pin, I used too small of a wire and it came disconnected and i got confused for a second why it stopped working 

9 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

humm @kzimmer   you able to reproduce with your truck?

 

I gotta wait til the snow is off the ground. Im interested in trying. Probably the weekend after the one coming up.

 

7 minutes ago, Natertot01 said:

@kzimmer It will be as simple as getting a solid core wire and connecting the middle and top pin, I used too small of a wire and it came disconnected and i got confused for a second why it stopped working 

 

So this is why it stopped working after 20-30 minutes and set a MIL? With a better connection it's all good permanently?

 

I wonder if there could possibly be any other repercussions of the ECM/PCM thinking the truck is in park/neutral? I must admit I'm a little titillated.

@Me78569 wants his truck back now 

Ok ok I apologize 

@Dieselfuture  my truck wasn't plagued with TM lol

@kzimmer I think it was due to the amount of driving I was doing. It obviously wont throw a MIL at idle for 3 hours straight so i believe it was the combo of high oss speed (like 70 mph lol) and the neutral being 'on'. The p1899 is literally a code for the malfunction of that switch. I did happen to get one other code which was p0500 which is a vehicle speed sensor malfunction. Either i accelerated so quickly it got pissed off or its a result of the p1899 code. Both codes showed up at the same time. I have not seen any down side to having it wired on in all my testing tonight (besides lack of cruise but if its on a switch that shouldn't matter). """"" Re reading your post it did not throw either of the codes till it came disconnected from the best of my knowledge, ill make a more permanent setup and test it tomorrow and get back to you""""""""

Edited March 28, 20187 yr by Natertot01

Oh crap... The cruise control.

Interesting to say the least. I'm just sitting here thinking about all the people that bought the RAD box for TQ Management issues. 

@mopar1973man Best part of this way is you get to keep all your gauges and possibly no CEL once I figure out the bugs.

Now figure out which wire to toggle to get rid of the PCM speed limiter for the manual trucks!  Please?

3 hours ago, trreed said:

Now figure out which wire to toggle to get rid of the PCM speed limiter for the manual trucks!  Please?

In theory it would be the same protocol if the truck thinks it's in neutral or park it don't give a crap that's the way I've seen manual swaps done and works fine 

At what speed do we get Limited at, I guess I never went fast enough to find out. 

I do remember a day when I had my RX7 almost did 200 mph I think it would have kept going but I got a bit scared to be honest.  

9 hours ago, trreed said:

Now figure out which wire to toggle to get rid of the PCM speed limiter for the manual trucks!  Please?

 

That's easy but the pcm does not receive the speed signal first. ;)

1 minute ago, jlbayes said:

 

That's easy but the pcm does not receive the speed signal first. ;)

 

Actually, the ABS module does. Then transmitted on the CCD bus. Then either ECM or the PCM can pick it up at that point. So that would go to the RAD box again. 

Relatively easy fix I've been working on. All you need is an Arduino and a couple toggles to choose ring gear size. Command after x amount of pulses (it's a sin wave), cut signal from rear end, inject the correct sin wave from the Arduino, then once you slow down allow the signal to pass through again. It'll be like a $10 device, I just need a portable ociliscope to test the signal at 95mph. Hell I could even add a pot onto the board and allow you to adjust for tire size to.  It may be $20 at max after boards are made