Well I have finally came up with a solution for the dreaded torque management that has plagued us 2nd gen owners for decades, and best of all its free. It all happened by accident actually. I opened up my trans due to some funny shifting issues and found every screen inside it was full of metal shavings. Which obviously meant that they got past the filter but more on this later. I cleaned all the solenoids and sensors of the metal and the little screens that protected them along with installing a new filter and fluid. Everything was good for about 2 weeks then all of a sudden after i left a drive thu i lost all forward gears. I messed around with it for a little while (like 4 hours) trying to figure out what happened. If I let the truck sit for a minute or 5 off i would get line pressure and could move the truck about 200 ft before losing all gears again. However when i would lose all forward gears and the truck was stationary i would only be able to rev the truck to 2000 rpm (basically felt as if it was in neutral) but if it was in park or neutral i could go balls to the wall 3700. So after quite a while a friend towed me home and i couldn't find anything on what my problem was. There were only about 5 forums were people had the exact same symptoms. One of them suggested it was a clogged filter and everything settled back into the pan after being off for a few minutes. So $6 later in a new filter and some new fluid i had laying around it was once again going better than the day i bought the truck. This is when i began thinking of the weird rev to 2k in drive but 3700 in N or P. I also noticed when trying to do a burnout or 4x4 launch in the past 2 years of owning the truck i could only build up to 2000 rpm before it started cutting fuel, then upon launch it would start bucking (I'm sure we've all been there) then pull like a mule.

 

This led me to my idea, I crawled under the truck today and pulled off the connector to the neutral/reverse switch and found out which pin is for the neutral safety switch (its the top 2 pins). I then shorted the 2 wires together with a paperclip and went for a test drive. The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before. I went into an abandoned dirt parking lot, put it in 4x4, and began to mash the brake and accelerator. The truck very quickly got to about 2500 rpm and about 30-35 lbs of boost. At this moment i knew it had worked. I built boost again and launched the truck, I had full fuel off the line with no bucking whatsoever, next I did a burnout with the same result. The only problem i ended up having is after about 20-30 minutes the truck threw a p1899 code for the switch being shorted which defaulted the computer and turned TM back on. However if you put it on a toggle switch you would be able to turn off TM at any time, and shut it back off before the computer knows while retaining all your gauges vs other options out on the market. Also if the neutral switch is "On" you will not be able to use cruise control so a switch would be the best option. 

 

I still have some more testing to do but this fix has worked every time I have tried it so far. This was my experience with my own experiment on my truck, if you would like to attempt this you do so at your own risk. It fuels fast and it fuels hard. If you have any questions feel free to ask  

 

Ive got a 98.5 Auto with a Comp I trans, without TM does the truck fuel harder off the line in 1st and 2nd gear or are you primarily interested in disabling it for hard boosted launches, >10psi?

1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

Ive got a 98.5 Auto with a Comp I trans, without TM does the truck fuel harder off the line in 1st and 2nd gear or are you primarily interested in disabling it for hard boosted launches, >10psi?

I am primarily interested in boosted launches. However I can light the tires just by flooring it vs it bucking like there was no tomorrow before hand. So yes it does fuel harder off the line, none of the fuel is cut like it was previously. 

Mine bucks like a mofo when TC tries to lock at "50 mph". I quote because my cluster is probably 8mph shy of 50 when it reads that. Its the reason I want a TC switch installed. It would be great to cure this without needing to use a TC switch full time!

16 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Mine bucks like a mofo when TC tries to lock at "50 mph". I quote because my cluster is probably 8mph shy of 50 when it reads that. Its the reason I want a TC switch installed. It would be great to cure this without needing to use a TC switch full time!

That is not torque management 

It's been a little while, has anyone given this a shot yet? I'm down right now due to snapping my front yoke

I have not. I decided to snap the input shaft of this POS 47RE instead. It's going to stay broken until at least fall. Maybe winter. Maybe later. Or until I find a deal on a manual parts truck. I'm not giving this automatic another minute of my time or energy.

Edited April 23, 20186 yr by kzimmer

20 minutes ago, kzimmer said:

I have not. I decided to snap the input shaft of this POS 47RE instead. It's going to stay broken until at least fall. Maybe winter. Maybe later. Or until I find a deal on a manual parts truck. I'm not giving this automatic another minute of my time or energy.

Just get a billet input and call it a day lol. What were you doing to break it?

26 minutes ago, Natertot01 said:

Just get a billet input and call it a day lol. What were you doing to break it?

 

Nah I'm good. Nothing in particular. Cruise control was set, on a highway on-ramp.

Was it a stock shaft?

Yep

Well there ya go! Lol

13 hours ago, kzimmer said:

I have not. I decided to snap the input shaft of this POS 47RE instead. It's going to stay broken until at least fall. Maybe winter. Maybe later. Or until I find a deal on a manual parts truck. I'm not giving this automatic another minute of my time or energy.

 

Manuals are not a guarantee either...

 

 

Went with a Billet shaft before it happened. Ounce of prevention and all that.. Splines are the same size, but notice the shaft thickness and bad *** tempering of what must be "un-ub-tanium" due to the $700.00 + price tag.

On 4/22/2018 at 8:26 PM, kzimmer said:

I have not. I decided to snap the input shaft of this POS 47RE instead. It's going to stay broken until at least fall. Maybe winter. Maybe later. Or until I find a deal on a manual parts truck. I'm not giving this automatic another minute of my time or energy.

 

I went with a billet input and a billet output shaft since I was told snapping either can be trouble. Also got a billet flexplate. 

 

Cost me a penny but I was told it was better then to break the pump/Bell housing if she goes.

Any updates?

What does the wiring look like when you run it into the switch. I’d like to do this on my truck as well to get rid of my TM issues

34 minutes ago, Crewpup15 said:

What does the wiring look like when you run it into the switch. I’d like to do this on my truck as well to get rid of my TM issues

 

 

 

On 3/29/2018 at 9:03 AM, IBMobile said:

Tapping the BK/WT wire at  pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set.  What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line.  This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code.