HI I took the dog out last night and noticed that my brake lights were on.

 

I played around with the petal and they went off, for awhile.  Then they came back on.

 

Then I unplugged the switch at the brake pedal, they went off, for awhile.  Then they came back on.

 

Then I unplugged the fuse for the tail lights, they went off, for awhile.  

 

I took the dog out this morning, and they were back on.

 

I'm not too good at electrical so any advise is  most welcome.  I'm in a remote area, and I have some tools, so the best thing would be for me to figure it out where I sit.

3 minutes ago, leety said:

HI I took the dog out last night and noticed that my brake lights were on.

 

4 minutes ago, leety said:

I took the dog out this morning, and they were back on.

 

When I quit calling my truck a dog, it started behaving much better.

 

First, can you confirm that it is the brake light (not the taillight) that is staying on?  The two circuits share the same bulb (but different filaments) in the rear of the truck.  Also, is the problem light illuminated at full brightness when this occurs?

 

The turn signal switch (mulit-function switch) and the emergency flashers are also a source of power to the brake lights and the both circuits share the same filament in the dual filament bulb.  You might try removing the emergency flasher fuse to see if that changes the symptoms. 

 

The brake fuse and emergency flasher fuse are supplied with unswitched power, and the turn signal circuit fuse is supplied with switched power.

 

- John

 

 

 

55 minutes ago, leety said:

HI I took the dog out last night and noticed that my brake lights were on.

 

I played around with the petal and they went off, for awhile.  Then they came back on.

 

Then I unplugged the switch at the brake pedal, they went off, for awhile.  Then they came back on.

 

Then I unplugged the fuse for the tail lights, they went off, for awhile.  

 

I took the dog out this morning, and they were back on.

 

I'm not too good at electrical so any advise is  most welcome.  I'm in a remote area, and I have some tools, so the best thing would be for me to figure it out where I sit.

 

Take notice of there are 3 fuses. (Fuse 4, 5, 10 in the Cab) 

 

It can be the muti-function switch or brake light switch. Being the Hazard switch will use the same filament as the brake like switch and if the flash relay is shot then the light just stay on. (Fuse 4 and 10) Brake lights is Fuse 5. 

 

33 minutes ago, Tractorman said:

 

 

When I quit calling my truck a dog, it started behaving much better.

 

First, can you confirm that it is the brake light (not the taillight) that is staying on?  The two circuits share the same bulb (but different filaments) in the rear of the truck.  Also, is the problem light illuminated at full brightness when this occurs?

 

The turn signal switch (mulit-function switch) and the emergency flashers are also a source of power to the brake lights and the both circuits share the same filament in the dual filament bulb.  You might try removing the emergency flasher fuse to see if that changes the symptoms. 

 

The brake fuse and emergency flasher fuse are supplied with unswitched power, and the turn signal circuit fuse is supplied with switched power.

 

- John

 

 

 

LOL Thanks for the response.

 

I really do mean my actual dog.  My truck is the Dragon!  I drove my truck yesterday and this has all been happening since I parked it yesterday afternoon.

 

I'll look into those things as you suggested, thank you.

 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Take notice of there are 3 fuses. (Fuse 4, 5, 10 in the Cab) 

 

It can be the muti-function switch or brake light switch. Being the Hazard switch will use the same filament as the brake like switch and if the flash relay is shot then the light just stay on. (Fuse 4 and 10) Brake lights is Fuse 5. 

 

Brilliant!  As always!

 

Thanks now I at least know where to start.

35 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Take notice of there are 3 fuses. (Fuse 4, 5, 10 in the Cab) 

 

It can be the muti-function switch or brake light switch. Being the Hazard switch will use the same filament as the brake like switch and if the flash relay is shot then the light just stay on. (Fuse 4 and 10) Brake lights is Fuse 5. 

 

Brilliant!  As always!

 

I removed all fuses 4 5 & 10 and the lights are still on :-( perhaps there's a ghost in the Dragon?

 

I did notice something oily in the connector at the brake petal switch when I disconnected it, not sure where that would come from, seemed strange to me.

 

Not sure what to try next.

 

Any further suggestions would be most appreciated.

Ok I just went outside again and the brake lights are off. I'm so puzzled. 

 

I think there really is a poltergeist in the Dragon.

Trailer brake controller? Not sure if you got one. Possible the control back feeding the brake light leads.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Trailer brake controller? Not sure if you got one. Possible the control back feeding the brake light leads.

Yes I do, I'll unplug that.

 

Is it normal for the brake switch at the petal to be all oilyish?

1 minute ago, leety said:

Is it normal for the brake switch at the petal to be all oilyish?

 

No. That's a sign of the hydrobooster leaking power steering fluid into the cab. This is most likely caused from lack of power steering fluid flushing and the oil is contaminated and broke down so the seals take a beating. Power steering fluid should be changed every 30k miles. 

Okay good to know!

Did the trailer brake controller do the trick or is it still turning on the brake lights?

5 hours ago, leety said:

 

 

I did notice something oily in the connector at the brake petal switch when I disconnected it, not sure where that would come from, seemed strange to me.

 

 

Good possibility leaking from brake rod in hydroboost, don’t know if the brake switch is the culprit or not but if and when you decide to tackle the hydroboost leak the brake switch has to be replaced anyway, they are not reusable, just s weird way dodge designed them. At lest thier only 20 bucks for a new one 

I think so, working on getting the oil out of the switch and checking on that leak that's making it wet.  Looks like I have a seal to replace.

 

This looks like a good how to vid on that.  

 

 

Any thoughts?

I took out the brake switch at the petal so I could inspect it and get all the goop out of it.  I also cleaned up the connector to it.

 

There's definitely some wetness at the hydroboost inside the truck.

If you already pulled the switch and if I am thinking correctly..  you have to replace with a new one. 

 

As as far as the leaky hydroboost, I used the kit from pirate jacks, thier is a couple threads on this site showing some good infro but can’t recall where thier at, at the moment.

Just now, 01cummins4ever said:

If you already pulled the switch and if I am thinking correctly..  you have to replace with a new one. 

 

As as far as the leaky hydroboost, I used the kit from pirate jacks, thier is a couple threads on this site showing some good infro but can’t recall where thier at, at the moment.

I saw that.  I unbolted it and put the same one back in.  I could see if you turned it to take it out that you would need to replace it, but it makes no sense that you would have to replace it if you unbolted it.  Perhaps I'm dumb.  But it seems like they are just playing games with making you replace parts for no reason.  It seems to work fine.  

 

I'd love to know what the reason for replacing it is though, weather it's working or not.  In one video there was something about changing it when you rebuild the hydro boost.  I want to know more about this part, I find it fascinating!

 

 

 

 

 

 

@Haggar has some good info on the the hydro boost rebuild. The shaft seal is the hard part. You need to see what it involves to install the seal. Not just a bolt on bolt off kind of thing. I need to do it myself but I put it off and the leak is small. Enough to see it on the upper floor mat. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I watched the video above and it does not address the removal of brake rod from hydroboost, If you do not do that your efforts will be wasted as it seems that yours is leaking from the rod seal.

 

a link to a thread that haggar has some good infro   httpsmopar1973man.comtopic12890-leaky-brake-booster.URL

Idk, but I heard of headlight switches burning up internally and causing some weird wiring issues

That sounds nutty.  It appears to be a simple switch.  I have a feeling the mounting tabs can get compromised if you take it out like that and it could create an issue.  If you unbolt it there’s no impact on the tabs.

I forgot about something too. Another reason for these seal failures could be the use of wrong fluids in the power steering system. I've seen in the past where people have used ATF in these truck assuming it will work fine. It will not. ATF will cause seal damage and our system requires only power steering fluid. I suggest staying away from synthetics as well in this system. Being I've crossed 344k miles on the OEM pump and hydrobooster. I'd still have the factory steering box if I didn't screw up the input shaft cover. 

My truck was clearly rode hard and put away wet with every ride.  I expect issues as a result. It’s good to know how to identify and correct the issues moving forwards so the truck can last a really, really long time with as few operating disruptions as possible.

 

I very much appreiate and value this site and your input and the input of other members/enthusiasts.  Stewardship of the Dragon is far more fun with the help of ya’ll.

Edited June 11, 20186 yr by leety