I have a 2000 ram 2500, I bought from a friend and it’s in real good shape but just had a few minor problems.... I have sorted them all out except one, it will start fine when it is cold... then let it run, shut it off and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then it won’t start. I put a new injection pump and lift pump, I have put new fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and just finished replacing all six injectors... I fired it up after bleeding the fuel system, let it run for about 20 min, then tried again to start and it would not start... I’m desperate for suggestions... but I fear I am going to have to submit and take it to a professional... 

 

and what about this bango bolt on the back of the head I’m hearing about... I just took it off... I can’t tell if it’s leaking at all but the rubber around the brass washers is completely gone... and was not at all very tight

Sumped seemed like a good idea at the time... I read there are problems with the drawstraw if you don’t cut it just right and you suck air at a 1/4 of a tank, the sump also allows you to use every ounce of fuel... and admittedly, not having to drop the tank was also very appealing,  if it starts leaking I’ll just have to find a tank and use the drawstraw...

 

but what about my starting issue... I can move that hot anywhere... I just put it on the alternator because airdog recommended it over the battery... but now I’m at the place I was when I got this truck, it won’t start unless I unhook the airdog lift pump... 

 

how do I get truck to turn turn over without the lift pump running, then after I release the starter switch, lift pump turns on... 

 

do I need to do that delay relay mod? What does that entail?

17 minutes ago, Goonas2 said:

I read there are problems with the drawstraw if you don’t cut it just right and you suck air at a 1/4 of a tank,

 

Easy. Cut it so its flat to the bottom like you see mine with a thickness of one quarter (coin). No quarter tank issues. The fact is you need to the measurement with an empty tank because as the tank empties the bottom rises up to the straw closing the gap. So keeping better than a half tank of fuel open the gap between the tip of the straw. This allows the straw to pick up every drop of fuel. Being that diesel is typically 6.1 pounds per gallon this places 106.75 pounds on the tank bottom at half tank, and only 53.37 pounds at a quarter tank, then 26.68 pounds at a 1/8 of a tank as you can see the plastic would deflect upwards to the straw again.

 

As for the sump be careful offroad you can swipe that sump off the bottom of the tank ruining both the tank and the sump both. Leaving the truck stranded until you find a new fuel tank. Let say some local boys here learned the lesson for us. 

5 minutes ago, Goonas2 said:

. 

do I need to do that delay relay mod? What does that entail?

The "relay" mod came with the air dog. It does not delay anything. It is what you plugged into the ECM pig tail. The relay mod just gets the power load off of the ECM and puts onto the alternator, since that is where you chose to connect the power. Do you have a way to check the fuel pressure while cranking? 

Thanks... I wish I would of asked about the sump first... 

 

delay relay.... is that something I can buy and put in place of the relay that came with my airdog?

3 minutes ago, Goonas2 said:

delay relay.... is that something I can buy and put in place of the relay that came with my airdog?

 

Actually, this is stacked in with the Airdog relay to cut the power to the fuel pump during cranking. So basically when the starter is running the relay opens the power wire to the lift pump. Typically the ECM does this for you by pulsing the power wire 50/50 and this causes the fuel pressure to fall during cranking. 

Edited July 29, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

1 minute ago, dripley said:

Do you have a way to check the fuel pressure while cranking? 

Per airdog instructions... I bypassed the fuel filter canister, so now I don’t have anywhere to hook up my mechanical gauge... I’m ordering a glowshift kit, but airdog was expensive so it will have to wait

18 minutes ago, Goonas2 said:

I bypassed the fuel filter canister, so now I don’t have anywhere to hook up my mechanical gauge...

 

Kept the stock filter can you'll find that there is still quite a bit of debris that gets pas a Donaldson filter 3um. So you need to order a Big Line Kit from Vulcan performance to re-instate the stock filter can. 

 

60k filter change. Stock on the left and Airdog on the right.

 

15k mile filter change is a waste...

 

18 minutes ago, Goonas2 said:

I’m ordering a glowshift kit

 

Be aware that are the "Dollar Store" of gauges... Accuracy is low and failures are high. 

Edited July 29, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

My instructions said the same but I kept my canister in the system like Mike, but still had to put a tapped tee into the fuel line for my pressure gauge. The 02's dont have outlets on the canister for a gauge. Dont remember what year you have.

 

I had a Glow Shift on mine and it did not last, but I did not put anything on it to protect from the VP pulses/water hammer effect. The Isspro EV1 is an inexpensive gauge that is better. The EV2's are very nice but are a bit more costly. 

 

 

 

 

Get a time delay relay.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Time-Delay-Relays/p_804415.h_804416.r_IF3003?mkwid=8TgfXoca&crid=11472933143&msclkid=e38efb4ee99616ce673ca0130b539cf2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - PLA's(BSC)&utm_term=1100315444392&utm_content=Ad group %231

I'd go for a simpler version- standard automotive relay with an NC (normally closed) contact.

 

Wire as follows- supply of the fuel pump is switched by the relay through the NC contact.

Coil of the relay between starter solenoid output and ground.

While the starter is running no power to the lift pump.

 

HTH

That sump is not all together bad, now that you have already installed it. You can adapt a protection skid plate under it. I've made my own or had them bent and cut by my local fabricator. Very inexpensive to do yourself. I have two second gen trucks and my fuel filters under the cab are too tall and needed to protect the water drains on them. Yeah.... I know Dripley, my truck takes a pee once in awhile. But what I'm trying to say is later on down the road you can do a nice set up with a draw straw like Mopars that goes to the bottom of the sump 

 

BTW, both trucks have the lift pump power coming directly off the batteries because them electric lift pumps put out a tremendous amount of AC ripple or noise. The motors on these are very dirty electically. W-T even said so 

 

Also you really need both filters to protect the very close tolerances inside the VP44. It is very sensitive to any dirt/ contamination.

Edited July 29, 20186 yr by JAG1

1 minute ago, JAG1 said:

BTW, both trucks have the lift pump power coming directly off the batteries because them electric lift pumps put out a tremendous amount of AC ripple or noise. The motors on these are very dirty electically. W-T even said so 

 Are both trucks lift pump still controlled by the ECM? I think thats the important thing. Hate to see someone get burnt up in wreck because the fuel pump did not shut off on its own.

  I ran mine off of the alternator for years. Maybe I ought to hook it back to the alt and see what the ac voltage is with connected there. Maybe thats part of the reason why I saw such a good drop. I changed the power to the PDC at the same time I did the ground mod.

 As far as a sump or draw straw goes, I think to each his own. I have neither. I modified my basket and the pick up is in there and only 3/8" and not 1/2".  Probably why i see a 3 to 4 pound drop in pressure at WOT. I still stay between 15 and 19 psi so I am happy. The basket will drain my tank dry too. So one size does not necessarily fit all.

Yes Dripley both trucks ECM's control the relay and then  controls the power coming from the batteries. The ECM shuts off the power when in a wreck. I think that's what you are refering to.

Precisely.

Was your factory lift pump on engine block? Some trucks got factory retrofit lots that moved the lift pump to in the tank.

 

I'm curious if you have two pumps running

No... it had the carter lift pump on the block

One truck of mine had a L/P in the tank. The other had the carter on the block.

Both trucks now have half inch all the way with a primary water seperating filter to help the lift pump not emulsify the water droplets (mixing) and filter out sediment. Then secondary factory filter does the final fuel filtering. Good fuel pressure also means that you are always cycling the fuel thru the filters, called fuel polishing when you have ample fuel on the return side. This is why I like the returns dumping into the filler neck so the drawstraw always picks up cooler fuel that needs more treatment or filtering.

Edited July 29, 20186 yr by JAG1

1 hour ago, Evan said:

Was your factory lift pump on engine block? Some trucks got factory retrofit lots that moved the lift pump to in the tank.

 

I'm curious if you have two pumps running

I ran 2 pumps on mine for 3 years or so. One in the tank and one on the frame rails. This was long before I knew anything about system. The bucking and dead pedal issues I had at the time stopped after I installed it.

This where my mechanical gaugevthats mounted in the cab is getting pressure.

 

Many dont recomend hooking close to 44 but I've had no issues this is a snubber then the gauge.

It's been like this on the same gauge for 6 or 8 years not exactly sure how many years

 

Thanks guys for the help... Ive ordered a iispro fuel pressure gauge and the big line fuel kit so I start using the oe fuel canister again...

 

i fixed the starting problem. But temporarily... I found a spot in my fuse block that loses power during start so I hooked the lift pump to that location. And it is working and starting normally.

 

My my question is, will this work permanently?, what’s going to happen if I keep using this setup... I’m sure it’s not proper to do it this way, so what’s going to go wrong with this setup?