I have a 2000 ram 2500, I bought from a friend and it’s in real good shape but just had a few minor problems.... I have sorted them all out except one, it will start fine when it is cold... then let it run, shut it off and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then it won’t start. I put a new injection pump and lift pump, I have put new fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and just finished replacing all six injectors... I fired it up after bleeding the fuel system, let it run for about 20 min, then tried again to start and it would not start... I’m desperate for suggestions... but I fear I am going to have to submit and take it to a professional... 

 

and what about this bango bolt on the back of the head I’m hearing about... I just took it off... I can’t tell if it’s leaking at all but the rubber around the brass washers is completely gone... and was not at all very tight

9 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Here's how to make a relay mod if one doesn't come with the new pump.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Goonas2 said:

Umm... does anyone know if there is a video to doing this... seems kinda complicated ???

 

He linked it for ya in here already! 

Personally, I wouldn't suggest any DDRP pumps. The problem is none of them upgrade the stock plumbing then all them end up hooking directly to ECM and have no protection relay added. 

10 hours ago, notlimah said:

He linked it for ya in here already! 

 

12 hours ago, Goonas2 said:

Umm... does anyone know if there is a video to doing this... seems kinda complicated ???

 

As I replied that @IBMobile could talk him through it. 

I’m working on it... it’s making my brain hurt reading all this... but I’m gonna do it today

The raptor pump I purchased from Vulcan came with 1/2” lines from tank to stock filter, I also selected a draw straw and 1/2” line from filter to VP44. This setup also included a relay, all necessary wiring and hardware for mounting on frame back near fuel tank.  This setup seems to work well for me. 

Edited June 17, 20186 yr by Royal Squire

I was thin

2 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

The raptor pump I purchased from Vulcan came with 1/2” lines from tank to stock filter, I also selected a draw straw and 1/2” line from filter to VP44. This setup seems to work well for me. 

I was thinking of doing the raptor thing, but looking at the price,,,  heck,,, just spend a couple hundred more and do the full Fass Titanium or Airdog instead and be done with it

 

 

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Just a reminder the relay mod is good but does nothing for your fuel pressure. If you decide to go with a full blown AD or FASS it will come with the relay harness ready to install. Dont know if the Raptor comes with one.

 

I have to agree with everyone on the full blown system. You would never have to look back. And with what you paid for the truck you have a good bit of room before you out strip what you could get for it.

7 minutes ago, dripley said:

Just a reminder the relay mod is good but does nothing for your fuel pressure. If you decide to go with a full blown AD or FASS it will come with the relay harness ready to install.

I think this the route I’m going... let me ask... how easy is the FASS system to install, on average... what is install time?

Looking at airdog vs FASS.... I’m noticing the airdog system fuel hoses already have the factory adapters on it... seem like it would be an easier install... am I right or wrong?

Also... I need a good fuel pressure gauge I can put in the cab of the truck... suggestions??? One that won’t look tacky

Airdog has the clip lock fittings. Fass has the heavy duty JIC fittings

 

My Fass Titanium kit all I bought separate fitting for the tank stock suction push lock 3/8 to 1/2" from Eric at vulcan (because the one Fass includes is wrong) and one 90 degree swept JIC fitting for the return line off the pump to replace a straight JIC for a cleaner install

 

I didnt care for the Airdog clip lock fitting, I prefer the JIC fittings and that Fass never had failure issues like AirDog has had in the past

 

Hardest part of the install for me was just mocking up the pump and brackets how I was going to install and run the lines, just alitle time consuming.  The instructions use a short bed and I have a long bed so how the lines and location are alittle different than the pictures

 

Edited June 17, 20186 yr by GSP7

39 minutes ago, dripley said:

Dont know if the Raptor comes with one.

 

Raptor DDRP - No... 

 

 Raptor Yes... (Frame mount)

34 minutes ago, Goonas2 said:

Also... I need a good fuel pressure gauge I can put in the cab of the truck... suggestions??? One that won’t look tacky

 

ISSPro EV2 series matches the stock dash in design. Even USB programable. 

 

 

39 minutes ago, Goonas2 said:

Also... I need a good fuel pressure gauge I can put in the cab of the truck... suggestions??? One that won’t look tacky

 

I have the Isspro mechanical with the included fuel isolator (not the V2 electric). Its been working great for over 10 years never a issue and in getting 16-17 PSI wit my Fass titanium.

 

Im an old school hot rodder... Mechanical gauges are best, more accurate and reliable

 

.

Edited June 17, 20186 yr by GSP7

 I have never installed a FASS but dont believe it would be much different than the AD since they are so similar. The fuel lines would a different story. The JIC fittings are going to be a little more time consuming but they are a quality product. I have heard people have had problems with the quick connects on the AD. I personally have not had any on mine for the 8 years since I installed it. If I ever do I will replace them I will JIC and push lock fittings. But for now if it aint broke I aint gonna fix it.

 I have the Isspro mechanical gauge in mine. Works great and reasonably priced. I tapped into the line between my oe fuel canister and the VP using a push lock tapped coupling and a needle valve that doubles as an isolator.

Edited June 17, 20186 yr by dripley

2 hours ago, GSP7 said:

Im an old school hot rodder... Mechanical gauges are best, more accurate and reliable

 

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Agreed on mechanical gauges being the most accurate.

 

The only issue I have with mechanical gauges is the liquid lines getting brittle and possibly breaking inside the cab. That's my worst fear is the interior of one of my vehicles flooded with fuel or oil from a broken gauge hose. Of course this is coming from someone that has lived in the high New Mexico desert most of his life where everything sun rots from the bright sun and heat.

16 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

h New Mexico desert most of his life where everything sun rots from the bright sun and heat. 

 Same here S/W desert, 90-110 degrees 6months a years

 

 I keep my truck and paint under cover or shop so the sun wont kill the factory clear coat and only take my truck out at night , so the paint and rubber doesnt get ruined

Any worries of fuel leaking in the cab can be alleviated by having your fp gauge in the lowest pod on the pillar and drilling a small hole underneath the pod. You’ll see or smel any leaks before it had time to puddle up and cause more damage.

Edited June 17, 20186 yr by notlimah

4 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Any worries of fuel leaking in the van can be alleviated by having your fp gauge in the lowest pod on the pillar and drilling a small hole underneath the pod. You’ll see or smel any leaks before it had time to puddle up and cause more damage.

That's how  installed mine except it is in he top hole. Figured it help me see it also. Turns out I smelled it first then ran my finger over the hole and it came back wet. Very small leak but the smell brought it to my attention.

If you use Push to Connect fittings and 1/8" Air Brake line you won't have any issues. Air Brake line is good for like 600 PSI burst strength rated for both oil and fuel contact. Push to Connect fittings work really well and so far mine have lasted over 4 or 5 years. 

5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If you use Push to Connect fittings and 1/8" Air Brake line you won't have any issues. Air Brake line is good for like 600 PSI burst strength rated for both oil and fuel contact. Push to Connect fittings work really well and so far mine have lasted over 4 or 5 years. 

Mine is compression at at the valve and the gauge, What are the the push to connect fitting you speak of?

 

Mine had a couple small leaks when first installed but have been fine since.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Mine is compression at at the valve and the gauge, What are the the push to connect fitting you speak of?

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PHI1293064

 

You will need the proper sex and tubing size. I know they have both male and female fittings and both ends at 1/8" NPT and tubing...

 

Need to unhook the tube just push the collar up and release the tubing. Then just push the tube back in the fitting and it self locks. 

Edited June 17, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

27 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PHI1293064

 

You will need the proper sex and tubing size. I know they have both male and female fittings and both ends at 1/8" NPT and tubing...

 

Need to unhook the tube just push the collar up and release the tubing. Then just push the tube back in the fitting and it self locks. 

I do know what those are. I have one on my boost pressure line, came in the kit. Did not know thats what they were called. Thanks.

Edited June 17, 20186 yr by dripley

Just me but never hurt to put a needle valve shut off just before (What ever you are using for fuel isolator , grease line or brake line)  able to shut off line in case of leak and better control hammering due to vp44.  

I had a leak 1st time i connected but now I use tubing cutter instead of packet knife to cut...nice sharp cuts with no burrs.  Temp wise my air brake line good to about 200 degrees most of them.  So no worries about fuel temps IMO.  My fuel line for gauge starts at lift pump.  Reason becuse I don't know temps close to vp/engine.