So I'm pulling the trigger on ordering a VP44.  I got dead pedal 3 times yesterday and have had enough of that.  I'm planning on getting it from DAP.  Does anyone have any pluses or minuses about this or any other suggestions?

 

I figured this would happen as my brother's ignorance with the VP44 is probably what lead to its premature death.  With 2 stock lift pumps in it with no TCW3 and more than likely constant low pressure sound like a death sentence.  He also used if for towing 2 to 3 horses and very little non towing.  The silvermoose had a very demanding first 60k miles.

 

This is going to be one expensive week. My tires will be getting replaced as well.  They currently have over 50k on them and there is still a good amount of tread left but they are dated 2014 and are not behaving nicely.

 

Thank and appreciate any input.

 

L8tr

D

Bought my VP44 from Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland, Oregon. No sales tax and cost $1150.00 with core exchange. Good people down there.

Dap is a great to get your pump. Be sure to get one with a new computer. As far as the ones with one or two year warranties, pump tapped or not is up to you. I hear the industrial Injection rebuilt ones are the best. DAP sells them and maybe others, that would be a question for them and you to work out.

 

My experience with dead started many years ago on my second pump. The OE went at 75k and was replaced under warranty. I did experience dead pedal a few times and took it to local shop that was highly recommended. The only thing they could find was low fuel pressure. I think they charged me $150 for the diagnostics and did not try to sell me a pump and install. I left out that prior to this I lost the OE lift pump and Dodge blessed with the in tank pump. I did not know squat about the fuel system back then and no idea who @Mopar1973Man was or what a forum was. So I added a BD diesel booster pump on the frame rail along with the in tank pump and never had another dead pedal issue.

 

Fast forward several years and I had gone thru a failed ECM and at that time replaced my VP thinking it was the problem. It was the ECM and not the pump. All was well for about 4 years then I developed a surging issue with the truck. Some times it would go dead pedal when the surging got crazy. Farted around with that and even replaced the APPS to no avail. I also picked up some stray MAP codes during the dead pedal episodes. So one day I decided to put my old MAP sensor back in the truck. Well I broke it trying to hook it up and had to put the old one back in. When I was done no more issues with surging or dead pedal and have been free of that for over 2 years. Nearest I can tell is something is whacky in the wiring harness. One time the surging came back a little so this time I just reached in and grabbed the wiring harness and wiggled it and it stopped. I have had a MAP trouble that was cured in the same. There is a 5v signal wire splice in the harness right at the ECM that I believe is my problem. i just have not had the time to take it off, open it up and see. I just know that when I manipulate it either of the problems goes away. 

 

The moral of this story is other than that the wire splice I dont have clue as to what is wrong other than wiring. One day in the future I am going to pull my wiring harness give it a good going over. Any of the dead pedal I have experience went away with out changing the VP. My current one has 230k on it.

 

I you have not gone over here and looked it may help .

.https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting-1

 

There is a lot of good info on their site. Sorry I could not be any better help.

 

 

3 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Bought my VP44 from Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland, Oregon. No sales tax and cost $1150.00 with core exchange. Good people down there.

Are they rebuilder Mike?

Yes they are a Bosch approved rebuilder. They are the same company as Industrial Fuel Injection. They have a facility with the clean rooms for no dust etc.

Thanks guys I appreciate the input.

 

13 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Yes they are a Bosch approved rebuilder. They are the same company as Industrial Fuel Injection. They have a facility with the clean rooms for no dust etc.

I assume you are referring to DAP?

 

Going to call them in a little bit.

 

Thanks again

 

L8tr

D

I know little about DAP.   I was explaining how I got mine from Pacific Fuel Injection and just wanted you to know they are the same owners of Industrial Fuel Injection.

Edited July 9, 20186 yr by JAG1

2 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I know little about DAP.   I was explaining how I got mine from Pacific Fuel Injection and just wanted you to know they are the same owners of Industrial Fuel Injection.

Thanks for your help guys. I ended up getting the VP44 with the 2 year warranty for $1099. That pump had the new electronics as opposed to 1 year warranty ($975) with rebuilt electronics.

Edited July 9, 20186 yr by SilverMoose

 

I can't wait to get this bad boy installed Saturday.  I've looked at @Mopar1973Man's post on removing the pump so many times I think I have it memorized.  Any other tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

 

L8tr

d

Slow and deliberate the first time and an extra pair of hands if you can get them. My second time I did it on my own. It is not difficult by any means. Hope it solves your problems.

All my tips are in that thread... Not hard. I was even able to teach @JAG1 how to change his first VP44. 

While you’re in there you might consider changing tappet cover gasket 

Thanks again,  much appreciated

 

L8tr

D

 

 

17 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

While you’re in there you might consider changing tappet cover gasket 

 

Good idea. It only a few more bolts to do the tappet gasket and simple as heck to do. Just please don't get stupid with a ton load of silicone sealant. Typically I would just light fill the gap of the gasket with a thin layer of silicone then slip the clean cover into the groove. THat bit of silicone will aid in sealing the cover better. The face to the block doesn't really need anything the rubber will seal just fine. 

21 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

While you’re in there you might consider changing tappet cover gasket 

That's good advice even if it's not leaking now. It will in the future.

The biggest thing is to get over your fears and just do it. The biggest thing is to make sure the KEYWAY is up at 12 o'clock, not the TDC marker. This requires the nut to be removed and washer to see the keyway. Beyond that just removal. The only other trick is to leave 3, 5, and 6 lines on the engine they do not have to be removed. 1, 2, and 4 have to be removed at a unit. There are 2 bolts holding the rear bracket down by the power steering pump. Then the 4 nuts holding at the gear case. Be nice to all your fuel lines and don't bend anything you can flex them a bit but don't purposely bend them.

Set old pump alongside new pump on the bench and turn the shaft till it matches the old pumps key way location. If it's at 11;45 or straight up 12 noon,..... just get them to be the same, exact as you can with your eyes studying its position. Its easy to turn with your hand.

 

Next paint the front of the key way white or yellow so you can see it from the front going in with the mirror. (NOTE)...While old pump was being removed the key was loose on mine, but had the pencil magnet ready, just in case, before I bumped it and lost it. It raced toward the magnet real quick and was a relief to get that. Very handy to have the pencil magnet near for each nut while removing during the whole process too.

 

Make sure the key is in tight on the new pump from the rebuilder. You shouldn't be able to lift it out by hand and there is a small arrow on the key to indicate the correct orientation of the key. You may need a magnifying glass to see the arrow. That arrow has to point the right way. I'm sorry I Cannot remember which way now that it has to point.

 

Another trick is to take a screwdriver pointed at the end of the pump shaft when removing or replacing the nut and washer. This way if you do drop them they will stay on the screwdriver and not be lost in the gear case.

 

Mike is right.... if he can teach me how anyone can do it. Best your first time to have no distractions. Be very deliberate each step of the way no short cuts and no hurrying is important.

9 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Set old pump alongside new pump on the bench and turn the shaft till it matches the old pumps key way location. If it's at 11;45 or straight up 12 noon,..... just get them to be the same, exact as you can with your eyes studying its position. Its easy to turn with your hand.

 

Next paint the front of the key way white or yellow so you can see it from the front going in with the mirror. (NOTE)...While old pump was being removed the key was loose on mine, but had the pencil magnet ready, just in case, before I bumped it and lost it. It raced toward the magnet real quick and was a relief to get that. Very handy to have the pencil magnet near for each nut while removing during the whole process too.

 

Make sure the key is in tight on the new pump from the rebuilder. You shouldn't be able to lift it out by hand and there is a small arrow on the key to indicate the correct orientation of the key. You may need a magnifying glass to see the arrow. That arrow has to point the right way. I'm sorry I Cannot remember which way now that it has to point.

 

Another trick is to take a screwdriver pointed at the end of the pump shaft when removing or replacing the nut and washer. This way if you do drop them they will stay on the screwdriver and not be lost in the gear case.

 

Mike is right.... if he can teach me how anyone can do it. Best your first time to have no distractions. Be very deliberate each step of the way no short cuts and no hurrying is important.

All very very good tips .  I went to get a 23 mm socket and couldn't find one so I ordered that, a telescoping magnet and telescoping mirror off amazon.  Got them today.  I love prime shipping.

 

One question I do have for anyone.  What torque does the pressure return valve tighten to?  Mine came separate and have to install it on the VP44.

 

Thanks

 

L8tr

d

 

 

If your talking about the overflow valve attaching the fuel return line to the VP44 the torque is 24 ft. lbs

page 14-85 FSM.

Edited July 14, 20186 yr by IBMobile

Mine is snug 

I snugged mine cause I'm pretty sure its aluminum threads in the VP. You can always tighten more if it leaks, but if it leaks and all the way tight already your out of luck. I go on the easy side of snug with something like that.

Edited July 14, 20186 yr by JAG1

Thanks too all for great advice. Will be starting in a few minutes. Going to have my laptop out in the garage with me with @Mopar1973Man's post about removal out there with me.

 

L8tr

D