The clutch is slipping so it's time to upgrade.  It's so bad I hope I make it home. 

Which online store has good customer service and sells southbend clutches?

I went through DAP for my SB clutch.

1 hour ago, greed said:

I went through DAP for my SB clutch.

 

Who is DAP?

2 minutes ago, LegendaryKing said:

 

Who is DAP?

Diesel auto power. They are a vendor here. You can also talk with SB direct about your also.

Edited August 15, 20186 yr by dripley

Diesel Auto power is a sponsor?  Then I'll order it from them.

 

Dap lists a southbend heavy duty hydraulic assembly.  Is that the master and slave?

9 minutes ago, LegendaryKing said:

Diesel Auto power is a sponsor?

 

Yes sir...

https://mopar1973man.com/forum/149-diesel-auto-power/

55 minutes ago, LegendaryKing said:

Dap lists a southbend heavy duty hydraulic assembly.  Is that the master and slave?

 

Southbend's part # HYDX1-50 has an adjustable pedal feature.  This is important as the OEM and other aftermarket non-adjustable pedal clutch hydraulics will likely frustrate you because they probably will not have enough stroke with the new clutch parts. 

 

- John

1 hour ago, Tractorman said:

 

Southbend's part # HYDX1-50 has an adjustable pedal feature.  This is important as the OEM and other aftermarket non-adjustable pedal clutch hydraulics will likely frustrate you because they probably will not have enough stroke with the new clutch parts. 

 

- John

 

So I still need to get a slave and master?  Or this part replaces those?

Don't use it. This adjustment most pedal over adjust the pedal and hyper extend the throw out bearing past the fingers of the pressure plate. It not required. I'm still running stock hydro yet with my south bend.

I myself have the SB hydraulics and they work great.  My clutch pedal height is set to my liking and is surprisingly light on the leg muscles.

 

SB contracts with a company who not only bores out the stock hydraulic housing for a larger plunger which gives more pedal leverage but they also fit them with braided lines which allow a straight shot from the bell housing up to the master.  To each is own I guess.....

Edited August 16, 20186 yr by KATOOM

1 hour ago, LegendaryKing said:

 

So I still need to get a slave and master?  Or this part replaces those?

 

The HYDX1-50 is the complete hydraulic setup (master cylinder, slave cylinder, and hydraulic line - all pre-filled).  It comes with an adjustable linkage to lengthen the master cylinder push rod, if necessary.  You may not need the adjustable feature, but if your new clutch engages with the clutch pedal real close the floor, you will be glad that you have this adjustment available.

 

If you decide to use this part, set the initial adjustment to match your old master cylinder push rod setup.  If your new clutch engages and disengages properly (like the old one did), then there is no need to change the adjustment.

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Don't use it. This adjustment most pedal over adjust the pedal and hyper extend the throw out bearing past the fingers of the pressure plate. It not required. I'm still running stock hydro yet with my south bend.

 

I understand your concern here, but I think that you were very fortunate that your old hydraulics worked well with your new clutch. 

 

My experience is limited to only three clutch replacements - a 2007 6.7 liter 6spd, a 2006 5.9 liter 6spd (both dual-mass flywheel conversions), and my own truck (a stock replacement).  In all three cases, the existing clutch hydraulic system was not adequate to fully release the clutch - the 2006 and 2007 being the worst. These two truck required the kit with the adjustable linkage.

 

My truck is okay, but the clutch engagement occurs too close to the floor for my liking, so I will probably get the Soutbend clutch hydraulic kit with the adjustable linkage.

 

- John

 

How about a new wrinkle. I currently have a SB clutch, previously a Valair clutch. I still have my oe lines and resevoir. I have replaced both the master and the slave with off the shelf parts. It works fine but i have no comparison to judge the SB hydraulics. You could buy the clutch of your choice and see how it works with your existing hydraulics. If you dont like it buy the aftermarket.

Clutch & hydraulics ordered from DAP.  Thanks for your help everyone.

Which clutch did you go with, part #

14 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Which clutch did you go with, part #

 

The twin disc ... Called them up on the phone.

 

I'm thinking I should replace the rear main seal while I'm in there.  Anything else I should look at?

As stock as you are, why the dual disk?

When I was towing my 11K fifth wheel, with the exhaust brake on , the clutch would slip on long, steep downhill grades, like McDonald pass going into Helena, MT. Clutch never slipped on level or uphill pulls. My truck is stock. I called SB, and their recommendation was the dual disc due to fairly heavy towing and the exhaust brake. So that is what I got from DAP.

 

The dual disc doesn't seem to be very grabby. It doesn't like to slip, so sometimes quick engage, disengage helps when backing. It weighs about 20lbs more than stock. You will notice the engine lugging quicker than with the stock clutch. Pedal pressure isn't much different.

 

The one thing I changed from the SB kit was the throwout bearing. I read on different forums where people had problems with the supplied throwout bearing. I went with a SKF from Rockauto. It looks to be a lot better quality. I believe SB changed their supplier, they may have a better bearing now. It wouldn't hurt to change the rear seal while your in there. Better safe than sorry.

I would do rear main since yore in there. 

I would leave the rear main alone if it's not leaking.  Nothing is better than stock.

I have never slipped my clutch with the EB. That was on the the oe, the Valair, or the SB OFE.

Just now, trreed said:

I would leave the rear main alone if it's not leaking.  Nothing is better than stock.

I changed my non leaking oe one at 370k when the SB went in. It now leaks. Where was that advice 2.5 years ago.

17 minutes ago, trreed said:

I would leave the rear main alone if it's not leaking.  Nothing is better than stock.

Hey now  let the man decide for him self 

I guess that brings a question, how many miles do these seals go before developing a leak.

13 minutes ago, dripley said:

I have never slipped my clutch with the EB. That was on the the oe, the Valair, or the SB OFE.

I changed my non leaking oe one at 370k when the SB went in. It now leaks. Where was that advice 2.5 years ago.

370 is very good for a seal, I guess I'd leave it alone then

Edit

I tend to over think things, so my advice is based on OCD ( whatever that means) I just had a few bad valve seals and instead of simply changing them I spent like 2 grand on parts I didn't need. So yeah, not that bright. But as soon as clear valve covers become available.... ohhh ya  

Edited August 17, 20186 yr by Dieselfuture