Well gang... I finally had enough of the random misfire that I was having. So this morning I broke down and got the shop clean up enough to get my truck in. So I did the typical disassembly and got the injectors out... This is the internals of a 24V injector (RV275) What I did was made a jig to hold the injector while you remove the nozzle nut. I used a allen wrench in a vise to make said jig. Then before you can remove the nut you need to remove your copper washer. This can be done with a putty knife and a hammer just lightly tap the putty knife and it should be able to pry it up enough to using a screwdriver. Now as I set my torque wrench for loosening and kept adding torque to the handle adjustment looking for the click and loosening of the nut. Well I found it at about 32 foot/pounds so I backed off to 30 foot/pounds and set the wrench. Loosen the nut. Now you need a clean area too. I set up a shop towel and a old ashtray. I filled the ashtray with Coleman fuel (Naphtha). So I would open up the injector carefully and place all the parts in the solvent to soak. Now in the pic above there is a shim that goes in the bottom below the spring. This shim might be stuck inside the body don't sweat it let in soak in the Coleman fuel for about 5 minutes and pick it up and it will fall out. Now that all the parts are soaking take a old scotch bright one thats been used a bit and rather soft. dip it in the solvent and light rub the nozzle clean of soot. Yes you may rub the tip but be gentle about it. Now look at the pintle (needle) look at the tip for damage or wear... Now check it for smooth sliding action in the nozzle. If it feels rough rub the pintle gently with the scotch bright pad and it will help it out... I was doing a mini-spray test too... Dip the nozzle in the solvent keeping the fuel hole up and holding the nozzle horizontal using a blow gun just a light burst of air will show you your spray pattern some what but also insures the nozzle tip is not plugged. Now just blow all the large parts clean and dry from the solvent. Make sure to blow the fuel passages clear. Once you happy with the clean up and every is clean now reassembly the injector exactly the way it came apart. Put your shim in the body take notice of which side was up. You'll also notice the shim has wear marks from the spring so be sure to put it back in the right way. This side down. Heck... Let me get more pics and I'll continue this write up...

Yeah we all don't have worn out scotch brite pads laying around You can get this at walmart or anywhere, it cleans sinks or aluminum or anything. It's actually the only thing that will remove any and all hard water stains, no matter how much they build up or how long they have been there. It is just powder, and you get it all wet and it turns into kind of a paste, that paste is what you clean everything with. Maybe I will make a demonstration video to show how neat it is, but here is a pic first. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1401.JPG

Seriously... Drive down I'll whip through most of it... Of course you get to do most of the work while I hold my beer in one hand and a video camera in the other telling you what to do...

that's awesome!!!!!!!!!!1:tongue:

Yeah we all don't have worn out scotch brite pads laying around You can get this at walmart or anywhere, it cleans sinks or aluminum or anything. It's actually the only thing that will remove any and all hard water stains, no matter how much they build up or how long they have been there. It is just powder, and you get it all wet and it turns into kind of a paste, that paste is what you clean everything with. Maybe I will make a demonstration video to show how neat it is, but here is a pic first. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1401.JPG

Thanks... Next time I head towards a big city I'll look to pic some up...

that's awesome!!!!!!!!!!1:tongue:

Try me... Drag your truck down here and I'll show you the tool box... I'll go find a beer and comfy chair and then grab my little video camera...

haha yeah - I'm pretty sure Mike would enjoy putting a video of me loosening the head studs thinking they were the injectors or disconnecting the ECM thinking it was the MAP sensor or something. Then scratching my head and saying .... hmmm .... it shoulda worked right ?

haha yeah - I'm pretty sure Mike would enjoy putting a video of me loosening the head studs thinking they were the injectors or disconnecting the ECM thinking it was the MAP sensor or something. Then scratching my head and saying .... hmmm .... it shoulda worked right ?

Have a little faith John you understand what's going on it just that you need more confidence in what you doing... Which comes by doing it yourself and time...

Great thread guys:thumb1:

Have a little faith John you understand what's going on it just that you need more confidence in what you doing... Which comes by doing it yourself and time...

Exactly the reason I have been taking everything apart to the greatest extent. Taking the dash completely out, taking the trans out and taking the tailshaft off to see the 5th gear nut (and fix it once), take the engine completely out.. Their is a 1st time for everything and I DON'T want it to be the time when I am on the side of the road. At this point, there really isn't anything I haven't touched or removed. I took a p-pumped 8.3 completely down to the block at school, so being about the same as mine, removes all the "1st times" within the engine. I haven't messed with the rear axle at all, haven't taken the cab off, haven't taken the bed off, haven't messed with the steering stuff, bout it. Rule in life, don't try to work on something that you can't fix, can't afford to have someone else fix, or don't have the time needed for the fix. I have enough things I can fix just about anything, that is most of the reason I am not afraid to tackle anything. The dash was a fetch, I am not a plastic repairer

Strange but true... I look at it from another point of veiw... But I look at it as its already broke what do you have to loose in trying to fix it. So pulling out the tool box and turning wrench on the truck doesn't bother me one bit. I'll work on engines not a problem... Transmissions well I'm not exactly willing to jump in that arena but when the time comes yeah I make the jump. As for axles/diffs that is a different story too... But since I do live in middle of nowhere Idaho and a mechanic shop is just so far away it best I just dig in and get the proper tools and do it myself. But I agree with you ISX that the only way to do it!

Strange but true... I look at it from another point of veiw... But I look at it as its already broke what do you have to loose in trying to fix it. So pulling out the tool box and turning wrench on the truck doesn't bother me one bit. I'll work on engines not a problem... Transmissions well I'm not exactly willing to jump in that arena but when the time comes yeah I make the jump. As for axles/diffs that is a different story too... But since I do live in middle of nowhere Idaho and a mechanic shop is just so far away it best I just dig in and get the proper tools and do it myself. But I agree with you ISX that the only way to do it!

I can see that. I just do everything because, say you are on the side of the road and a storm is coming, or any other situation where time is a factor, be late for a job, etc. You will have done it, you know what needs to come off, you might even be good enough to remember the size of all the wrenches. So you do all of the guesswork when you have time to do it. Then when there is no time for guesswork, you are ready, confident, and can fix it in a hurry. Do I sound paranoid that I am going to get mugged on the side of the road?

Have a little faith John you understand what's going on it just that you need more confidence in what you doing... Which comes by doing it yourself and time...

that is too true! nothing like knowing 100% that the job is done right and you saved yourself a bunch of $$$

Rule in life, don't try to work on something that you can't fix, can't afford to have someone else fix, or don't have the time needed for the fix.

follow my rules and you just might make it outta this mess

As for axles/diffs that is a different story too...

the thing about axles are the tools. alot of specialty tools required and it usually take 2 or 3 rear ends to make the investment worth it

don't worry...that info is only worth

awesome write up guys!

So for those of us that may not be wanting (or mechanicaly inclined enough) to tear apart our injectors is there any fuel additives that would be good to run to clean while inj are still in truck or would I risk damage to lp or ip?

So for those of us that may not be wanting (or mechanicaly inclined enough) to tear apart our injectors is there any fuel additives that would be good to run to clean while inj are still in truck or would I risk damage to lp or ip?

Most of the popular brands will help. I personally use Amsoil Diesel Concentrate. I have no way to tell if the additive did it, but I had a sticky injector the first summer I owned the truck that hasn't come back in 2 years.

---------- Post added at 02:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 PM ----------

Stay away from additives that have alcohol in them!

So for those of us that may not be wanting (or mechanicaly inclined enough) to tear apart our injectors is there any fuel additives that would be good to run to clean while inj are still in truck or would I risk damage to lp or ip?

I think it does more damage than good. It might clean but you are sacrificing lube. When I say it might clean, I mean it won't do anything. The carbon is carbon, the injectors are made of steel, which is, carbon. So unless the chemical will dissolve the injector, it won't dissolve carbon deposits. I even bought injector cleaner to throw all the parts in and none of the carbon came off, it just got the mud and dust off. The only black stuff you saw was soot that had made it's way into places. I have *heard* that water injection cleans over time, never done it so not sure if this is true or not. Additives do break things loose a little but they can only do so much. So the only way to get them clean is to take them out. It's kind of like that spot on your car you can shoot a million psi on with the pressure washer, but it won't come off until you wipe it off with your finger.. Chemicals are the same way, you can make them more and more potent but it just won't do anything. All of the carbon on the injector is that *spot* you had to use your finger on, so you have to pull the injector and use something that works along with elbow grease.

I have noticed a few out there but I am always worried about messing with the fuel due to the touchy lp... Cant wait till I get the money for new pump, I know this is off topic but is there any lp setups that dont run 400+. Every time the piggy bank gets full someone wants a bbq.

I think it does more damage than good. It might clean but you are sacrificing lube. When I say it might clean, I mean it won't do anything. The carbon is carbon, the injectors are made of steel, which is, carbon. So unless the chemical will dissolve the injector, it won't dissolve carbon deposits. I even bought injector cleaner to throw all the parts in and none of the carbon came off, it just got the mud and dust off. The only black stuff you saw was soot that had made it's way into places. I have *heard* that water injection cleans over time, never done it so not sure if this is true or not. Additives do break things loose a little but they can only do so much. So the only way to get them clean is to take them out. It's kind of like that spot on your car you can shoot a million psi on with the pressure washer, but it won't come off until you wipe it off with your finger.. Chemicals are the same way, you can make them more and more potent but it just won't do anything. All of the carbon on the injector is that *spot* you had to use your finger on, so you have to pull the injector and use something that works along with elbow grease.

It depends on the additive, some add lubricity and clean. But you are correct, nothing will instantly clean, it takes time. And the best way to get carbon off the tips is to get those EGT's at 1200 sustained for some good towing, that will clean them nicely. But carbon shouldn't be on the internals, and that's where, IMHO, a good additive will help. Remember that an additive can only work on places the fuel touches, so it can't have any effect on the external surfaces and gunk, only internals.

yes this is a hole that had just been edm'ed..so...before is a stock hole in the nozzle and the after is the extrude honed process.so even tho microscopic..stuff is gunna gunk up and the rough surface.will it stick to a slick surface????if it does i bet not much.oh..gethoned.com..i called jim baur today...sound like this will happen soon to an extra pair of stix all bagged up.hay..if stock rv275's are smooth idling and make good power..how about doing this to them?sweet....huh:thumbup2:

---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:57 PM ----------

so once in a while maybe run a cleaner like the whie bottle stuff to clean the rough spots out..not just filling up the fuel filter housing and a little extra than normal to the tank of fuel and see what happens.:smart:maybe?

Mike, when changing nozzles and not going with a different nozzle is a pop test not needed? I have done several sets of nozzles and never pop tested with good results. My injectors also never came apart like yours but I didnt try to dissasemble them either.

After reading about taking the injectors apart to clean them, I thought I'd add my story here. I noticed a gradual miss in the idle and slight difficulty starting over about a week. Didn't think much of it for several days and the realized I forgot to add fuel additive the last time I filled up. I stopped and got some on my way home added it and about 10 minutes later it started running really rough, no power, and smoking like I'd never seen it smoke before. The mechanics at work said I had a bad injector and replaced the one they thought it was. Nothing changed after replacing all of them and noticed that a tip off one of the was broken off. Wound up shelling the # 2 piston and had to sleeve the cylinder and in the middle of rebuilding the engine. Just a word of caution of what can happen, not sure how frequent it is, but if I notice it again, I'm stopping my engine right then and get it towed home. '01 3/4 Ton 220,000 Miles

tagged.

I've been messing around with this stuff http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05100-05101.html and after seeing countless exceptional results, I took out one of the 3 injectors I have never cleaned and tried it. That stuff takes the carbon off after a minute of rubbing but the abrasive in it is so fine, I think it hardly touches the injector nozzle. I messed with it for 5 min and couldn't get it to even scratch the nozzle. So I think it is the absolute best stuff to use to clean the injectors. Just make sure to use some brake cleaner on it to get it all the polishing compound out.