Ok so here I go, I have a 99 ram 2500 4x4 auto trans 24v 280k miles. I am having a gremlin and here are the symptoms and the story. It started with my transmission not shifting out of 1st no matter how few or many rpms you threw at it unless you let off the petal and kicked it down that way, so I replaced Gov pressure solenoid, transducer, and for good measure the o/d and lockup solenoids as well also tightened the bands to spec and put new fluid in. Did not fix the issue, then the next day driving to work my speedometer says I'm not working Monday and drops to 0, so i replace both the speed sensor in the transmission tail housing and the one in the rear axle. Fixes the speedo issue but not the shifting issue. Then i get a check engine code for my apps, i put the multimeter on it and it checked out fine but i replaced it anyway with the one sold on the store here code went away, UNTILL the truck is driven. Once I get up to about 1600-1800 rpm (rpm is the only factor I have found in when it goes off) the check engine light comes on, but here is the kicker when you shut the truck down it clears the check engine code from existence. 

 

****an update on this as well, yesterday while driving home doing about 55mph the truck acted like it shifted from o/d into 2nd it was enough to pull me forward in my seat some from the force of the downshift. I also have a symptom of wait to start light not coming on right away it comes on about 45 seconds after you put the key in the on position and the truck will not fire unless you wait for it to go out, I do hear my lift pump kick on when the wait to start light comes on but not before.

 

This all kinda leads me to believe it's not a multitude of problems like I have been looking at it but some form of electrical or grounding gremlin (i know I know those are so rare) or even a bad ecm.

 

This is my daily driver so I need to get it back to a reliable state and help is greatly appreciated.

I found it never noticed that before crazy

You should also load test your ground cables starting from the block and going to the batteries. I've had three dodges with failing ground cables on drop test also burn up alternators. 

 

Most of them were just the driver's side that were failing. One had both. Mine was also just the driver's side that was borderline when my truck started eating alternators every 3 months.

Edited October 9, 20186 yr by pepsi71ocean

I will do that as I go thru and do the ground rewire part. 

Ok so update, I replaced and tested the alternator and did the regrounding project and I am still having the trans shift issue from 1st to 2nd i know it's not the transmission as i had that bench tested as well at a local shop. Plus I'm still getting the apps check engine code, I'm leaning towards a new computer at this point I'm kind of at a loss and tired of throwing money at this thing. Anyone have any ideas!!!

1st, 2nd and 3rd gear is hydraulically controlled within the transmission. 4th gear is electronically controlled by the PCM. 

 

I still say to get a hold of @Dynamic and ask him. He'll know exactly what is wrong.

On 10/8/2018 at 12:33 PM, jamesecox said:

So step 1 today was checking the diode on the alternator. I'm going to assume it's bad as tr he lowest reading I got was 0.074 and at times it jumped to as high as 1.46 so I will be buying a diode and replacing it. I will also be doing the alternate grounding method from the previous post. Maybe this will fix the "surging" alternator symptoms it seems to have had since I got it and I just always assumed it was the heater grid drawing power.

 

Questions:

1. Did you check your brush pack and the slip rings?

2. is it waiting to shift from 1 into 2?

As far as the alternator goes I just replaced it and that seemed to fix the wait to start light and a few other small issues as far is the transmission goes it will not shift from 1st to 2nd unless I get it up to about 30 miles an hour and  Let off of the gas pedal but from 2nd through over drive it shifts just fine I'm starting to believe the valve body maybe badd I don't know from this point because everything else checks out fine

27 minutes ago, jamesecox said:

it will not shift from 1st to 2nd unless I get it up to about 30 miles an hour and  Let off of the gas pedal

 

Mine actually did this exact thing starting when i had my buddy (professional trans guy for the record) rebuild my transmission. I always thought it had something to do with the shift kit until a couple months ago when i did the W-T wiring mod and ever since then it just glides right into second gear. It was a night and day difference driving the truck after doing that.

12 minutes ago, 2000Ram2500 said:

 

Mine actually did this exact thing starting when i had my buddy (professional trans guy for the record) rebuild my transmission. I always thought it had something to do with the shift kit until a couple months ago when i did the W-T wiring mod and ever since then it just glides right into second gear. It was a night and day difference driving the truck after doing that.

I have the stuff to do that this weekend I just havnt had time hopefully that fixes it I will be sure to let everyone know.

If the specified bolt doesnt work I attached mine to a stud that was originally intended for holding the harness to the back of the timing cover. Seems to be an adequate ground location so far. Maybe someone else will have some other input

 

-I also lost the bolt in the gravel so i didnt have much of a choice if i wanted to drive it that day

Edited October 22, 20186 yr by 2000Ram2500
lost it

Seems most of those bolts are as WT describe in his thread, 5mm X 1.5 IIRC. But a few have thers to be a 6 mm. They seem differ a little.

17 hours ago, jamesecox said:

As far as the alternator goes I just replaced it and that seemed to fix the wait to start light and a few other small issues as far is the transmission goes it will not shift from 1st to 2nd unless I get it up to about 30 miles an hour and  Let off of the gas pedal but from 2nd through over drive it shifts just fine I'm starting to believe the valve body maybe badd I don't know from this point because everything else checks out fine

 

Did you change the output shaft sensor on the transmission? Or at least clean up the sensor? The next step is electronics, and then the last is to verify your line pressure. While the 1-2 shift is indeed hydraulic it is done so via the line pressure, and either the GPS or the TV cable can force that shift. Most of the time with a shift kit in it or higher line pressures you need to solder in a resistor into the wiring to fool the PCM. Or so I have understood it. I could be wrong.

2 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

Did you change the output shaft sensor on the transmission? Or at least clean up the sensor? The next step is electronics, and then the last is to verify your line pressure. While the 1-2 shift is indeed hydraulic it is done so via the line pressure, and either the GPS or the TV cable can force that shift. Most of the time with a shift kit in it or higher line pressures you need to solder in a resistor into the wiring to fool the PCM. Or so I have understood it. I could be wrong.

yes I changed out the output sensor on the trans as well. the trans has all new sensors everywhere they are found. I am going to do the grounding mod and see if that fixes it if not then maybe its time to seriously look at the manual swap.

2 hours ago, jamesecox said:

then maybe its time to seriously look at the manual swap.

Not to put salt on wounds, but that's why it almost took me 2 years to buy my truck, had lots of automatic options but I knew that's not what I wanted. Glad I waited that out, seems to be more issues with automatics to manuals.

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

Not to put salt on wounds, but that's why it almost took me 2 years to buy my truck, had lots of automatic options but I knew that's not what I wanted. Glad I waited that out, seems to be more issues with automatics to manuals.

 

Without a doubt the autos have more issues. Thats been dodges downfall for as long as i can remember. It only got worst with daimler when they introduced the chrysler version of a mercedes automatic transmission. Those things are junk. The minivan transmissions are terrible too. But not all just alot. My dad had an 06 megacab cummins we towed equipment a 5th wheel a goose neck it got alot of abuse but somehow made it to 190k miles before it went out.

Thats not to say manuals are bullet proof though. I know the 5 speeds had an issue with a nut backing off. The 6 speeds are awesome transmissions though. And the new aisin automatic there putting in these heavy duty trucks seems to be good too. I havent seen many of those come in at all

4 hours ago, jamesecox said:

yes I changed out the output sensor on the trans as well. the trans has all new sensors everywhere they are found. I am going to do the grounding mod and see if that fixes it if not then maybe its time to seriously look at the manual swap.

What are your line pressures inside the valve body? I wonder if they installed the shift spring wrong.

11 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

What are your line pressures inside the valve body? I wonder if they installed the shift spring wrong.

My test sheet shows 59psi at the accumulator at idle and within range in rev- od. The guy who rebuilt it does the same job for ATS so I trust him plus he has built a ton of other trans for me over the years

Be sure and report on the before and after AC noise levels when you do the W-T grounding mods if you can. Thank you.

6 hours ago, jamesecox said:

My test sheet shows 59psi at the accumulator at idle and within range in rev- od. The guy who rebuilt it does the same job for ATS so I trust him plus he has built a ton of other trans for me over the years

 

What are your pressures at the test port in D with O/D off at 1,800 rpm? While 59 is barely in the acceptable rage, you should be closer to 75psi at idle. and in the 140-160psi range at 1,800rpm. 55 is stock by the way.

Now I should also add that line pressures should also be adjusted based on engine HP as well. If your pushing 400HP you should see 160 to 180psi. 3rd gear seems to get abused and fails as much as the O/D units do. but Since your truck has a built transmission then i suspect we need to check these before moving further into the valve body.

 

How is your TV cable settings? does the truck downshift at all? Im wondering if your valves aren't set right on the pressure side.

Edited October 24, 20186 yr by pepsi71ocean

So the WT wiring mod is done, I just wanted to know if the alternator cable should be fused since it was from the factory? Also no luck on that fixing the trans so this weekend the trans is coming out and going bye bye for a new one.

On 10/24/2018 at 10:44 AM, pepsi71ocean said:

 

What are your pressures at the test port in D with O/D off at 1,800 rpm? While 59 is barely in the acceptable rage, you should be closer to 75psi at idle. and in the 140-160psi range at 1,800rpm. 55 is stock by the way.

Now I should also add that line pressures should also be adjusted based on engine HP as well. If your pushing 400HP you should see 160 to 180psi. 3rd gear seems to get abused and fails as much as the O/D units do. but Since your truck has a built transmission then i suspect we need to check these before moving further into the valve body.

 

How is your TV cable settings? does the truck downshift at all? Im wondering if your valves aren't set right on the pressure side.

Truck downshifts just fine, transmission was built but for towing not a race application or anything my truck is only about 100hp over stock. So nothing crazy.