MM suggested I post up after speaking with him on the telephone yesterday afternoon.

this all started after some cold weather here. leaving work one day and just died on me a few times, hard to start and then finally nothing.

 

here goes

working on a 1999 2500 5.9 l . it is hi-line w/auto transmission. key fobs never worked for me.

trouble is it is very very hard to start. finally got it to run yesterday, let it run for about 5 minutes and turned it off. it didn’t want to start again.

then when turning the key to start and run position, no lift pump noise.

i waited 30 minutes and cycled the key again and heard the lift pump running. 

wait to start light come on immediately for about 2 seconds then goes off. grid heater are not hooked up at this time

 

before I have let it run till it warmed and shifted the gears and/or gave it some fuel and just dies.

 

batteries are at full charge, 13.9v from alternator. I did have the alt. checked. checked out fine. mm suggested to take it out and have it checked again for bad diodes

new rebuilt starter

refreshed/rebuilt ecm

new tpps

IP been in it just at two years (blue chip diesel - stock)

lift pump in it just at 2.5 years (airtex)

have not replaced sealing washers at back of the head. going to do that later today as long as Michael doesn’t dump water on me.

 

going to get a better fuel pressure gauge today and check that, again. was checking it with a HF pressure testing kit.

 

all cable ends have been replaced, new military style battery clamps.     have not combined grounds to block, yet.

Edited October 10, 20186 yr by RAD

I do not know if there is a lift pump in my tank or not. I had thought there was either a lift pump in the tank or one mounted on the engine.

 

Could there be both?

I doubt it. Just bump the starter, no engine start, then listen for pump running. Then you will know. 

 

I did have 2 pumps on mine many years back. I put a booster pump on the frame rail when the POS in tank pump got weak. It worked fine but I dont know anyone else who ever did it or will admit to it anyway. Thats why I doubt you have both, but it is pissibke.

what would be the better drawstaw kit to use and not too terribly hard to install?

1 hour ago, RAD said:

what would be the better drawstaw kit to use and not too terribly hard to install?

For me... bulkhead fitting in top of fuel module then thread on a PVC pipe with little bit of thread sealer.  Other end file a notch about size of 16 penny nail.  At bottom 2 quarters space at bottom for fuel to get sucked up.  Bottom of tank dies deflect some empty or full, so measurement at bottom critical to prevent 1/4 issues.  Or fass has one I think $95.00 but you drill a hole in tank.  My fass drawstraw sucked air where pipe slips over ribbed fitting.  Side note I would never do the sump route again,where you drill a hole at bottom of tank and hope road debris dont get you or tiny rubber o ring is ok. Red round thing in pic is fass drawstraw.  

Edited October 18, 20186 yr by 015point9
Add info

23 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

......never do the sump route again,where you drill a hole at bottom of tank....

NOPE!!

27 minutes ago, RAD said:

NOPE!!

Mine Failed because of 1 cross threaded bolt installed by a guy claiming to be mechanic.  Came all the way from AZ to WA with diapers and bailing wire wrapped around tank.  Also same mechanic that screwed up drawstraw.  That is why drawstraw and bulkhead fitting in pic.  Then found this site and started doing my own stuff.  Took me over a year to find another tank.  

I left out return line...mine flows back in right next to uptake pipe.  

21 hours ago, RAD said:

Could there be both?

 

Yes. A lot of people got the retro-fit in-tank lift pump then had it fail and then stack on an external lift pump. So yes it's possible to see two lift pumps on a truck. Matter of fact Dodge even has an add-on double pump kit. The first pump was controlled from the ECM as normal then the second pump controlled by an oil pressure switch. Typically the second pump was on the driver side frame rail.

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yes. A lot of people got the retro-fit in-tank lift pump then had it fail and then stack on an external lift pump. So yes it's possible to see two lift pumps on a truck. Matter of fact Dodge even has an add-on double pump kit. The first pump was controlled from the ECM as normal then the second pump controlled by an oil pressure switch. Typically the second pump was on the driver side frame rail.

That how mine was set up. Booster pump on an oil pressure switch. In tank on the ECM.

5 minutes ago, dripley said:

That how mine was set up. Booster pump on an oil pressure switch. In tank on the ECM.

 

Back in time, years ago that was a really popular solution by the dealers. 

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Back in time, years ago that was a really popular solution by the dealers. 

Holy crap I am dealer batman!!!!.

 

Actually I bought mine from BD diesel and thats how it came. Never noticed when I put it on it was just a carter pump. Still got it somewhere. It did work though.

I was reading/looking at fuel delivery stuff today and it seemed to me that the pump(s) very well could have been a dealer installed item.

My in tank pump was the last dealer installed part I ever bought. 

i would like to thank everyone who has commented on this post with their responses. i will keep this topic updated as i continue to get that truck running.

threw a cheeper NEW lift pump on it yesterday. no luck. it did start, gave it some pedal and let off then died. when i opened the valve on the filter housing, fuel came out of the area close to the yellow switch/valve opener. guess i will be removing that and replacing little o-rings??? i , i will investigate but does anyone know the size and what they are made of?

You can buy a new valve for less than $15 IIRC. Check eBay 

I took the overflow banjo bolt out today. I attached/screwed on a length of rubber hose being careful NOT to cover any of the three holes in non-threaded section. I then put the banjo bolt in some water an blew into the hose. I saw bubbles coming from the one smaller hole in the bolt, is this normal or should NO bubbles be seen???

 

i did not do the 14 psi/10 psi compressed air test. Air compressor psi gauge is old and unreliable.

The stock check valve does have a small bypass.

 

HTH,

 

Hag

13 hours ago, RAD said:

I took the overflow banjo bolt out today. I attached/screwed on a length of rubber hose being careful NOT to cover any of the three holes in non-threaded section. I then put the banjo bolt in some water an blew into the hose. I saw bubbles coming from the one smaller hole in the bolt, is this normal or should NO bubbles be seen???

 

i did not do the 14 psi/10 psi compressed air test. Air compressor psi gauge is old and unreliable.

 

 

after reading the comments by @Haggar and @Mopar1973Man, the norm is to see air bubbles coming from the little hole while i blow into the rubber hose.