I have been reading your articles and have a question about the Electric Fuel Gauge article.

I am taking my tap point from the top of the existing fuel canister with a needle valve.  I have a mechanical gauge now, but I am going to replace it with the ISSPRO EV2.  Is this far enough from the VP44 or should I go a little further away before putting the sender in?

I also have a question about the W-T ground wire mod - simplified version. In the article next to the last picture there is a connection in the ground wire about 3 inches to the right of your hand. Is this the fusible link that you talk about at the end of your article?

I did my ground mod using W-T's method.  I didn't see the simplified method until now.

 

Thanks,

Alan

As far as your fuel pressure gauge placement it’ll be fine and far enough away. Just barely crack the needle valve until you get pressure and you’re good to go.

 

I’ll let someone else chime in about the ground mod as I haven’t done it myself.

It looks like the connector and the ground wires at the right battery was recycled and used for the left side ground.

                            

2 hours ago, my99ram said:

I have been reading your articles and have a question about the Electric Fuel Gauge article.

I am taking my tap point from the top of the existing fuel canister with a needle valve.  I have a mechanical gauge now, but I am going to replace it with the ISSPRO EV2.  Is this far enough from the VP44 or should I go a little further away before putting the sender in?

I also have a question about the W-T ground wire mod - simplified version. In the article next to the last picture there is a connection in the ground wire about 3 inches to the right of your hand. Is this the fusible link that you talk about at the end of your article?

I did my ground mod using W-T's method.  I didn't see the simplified method until now.

 

Thanks,

Alan

 

I have my T tap for my fuel pressure gauge all of the way back by the drivers seat under the cab. I ran the T tap to the needle shutoff valve, to greese gun hose up into the upper engine room, where it converts to the nylon crap. I had my T tap closer to the VP but had water hammer. But from where I am now i have almost 10 feet of line in between the T tap and the fuel pressure gauge.

16 hours ago, IBMobile said:

It looks like the connector and the ground wires at the right battery was recycled and used for the left side ground.

                            

Ok, thanks. I see that now.  However, what is a fusible link?

18 hours ago, my99ram said:

I have a mechanical gauge now, but I am going to replace it with the ISSPRO EV2.  Is this far enough from the VP44 or should I go a little further away before putting the sender in?

 

Need to have at least 5 feet of tube between the last snubber before the sender for the gauge. This allows the pulses to fade out over distance of the tubing. The ISSPro EV2 gauge will come with a sinstered snubber as well. Stack that after the needle valve then 5 feet of tubing then the sender. 

 

NOTE: Grease gun hoses doesn't count. Too short of a distance and the flexible hose doesn't dampen any of the pulses. 

Thanks, where can I get a mounting like yours?

 

36 minutes ago, my99ram said:

However, what is a fusible link?

An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four American wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts.  Wikipedia 

 

                            

 

 

 

 

@IBMobile for our 140 Amp alternator what would you suggest for a fusible link for that?

 

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

NOTE: Grease gun hoses doesn't count. Too short of a distance and the flexible hose doesn't dampen any of the pulses. 

 

I used grease gun hose because its is much more sturdy for being under the truck, compared to the nylon tubing.

37 minutes ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

I used grease gun hose because its is much more sturdy for being under the truck, compared to the nylon tubing.

The nylon air brake tubing pretty robust and is not the same as the ice maker / swamp cooler nylon tubing. Air brake tubing will definitely out last a rubber grease hose when exposed to the elements.

4660-1120.pdf

Air brake line is typically rated for 600 PSI bust point. Fuel and oil resistant.

 

Where cheap oil pressure gauge kits typically get brittle and break with slight flexing.

 

Air brake tubing is way stronger and more tolerant of heat and flexing. I've got roughly 4 years on my tubing still flexible and holding up good.

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

@IBMobile for our 140 Amp alternator what would you suggest for a fusible link for that?

The same one that's used in the 3ed gen trucks, a 10 gauge.  If the B+ charge wire has been changed out to the larger #4 then an 8 gauge fusible link is called for.

Now to source out a 10 AWG fusible link...

Here you go.

https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/10-Gauge-Fusible-Link-Wire-9-Length-p/a17464.htm

Do you splice the whole 9" length into the charge wire? The electricaly chalanged need to know.

The charts say what color or gauge size wire to use but not the length for an amp rating.  For the repair of an existing fusible link  use the same size and length.  For a new installation GM says to use a 10" and strip back 1/2' at both ends for connection.

 

I think the factory installed fusible link is done because it's cheap and doesn't take up any more room than the wire.  It can be a PIA to diagnose an open circuit in it if it's a clean break and replacing one takes several steps and is time consuming.

I would install a plug in fuse assembly and not be bothered with a fusible link.

1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

The charts say what color or gauge size wire to use but not the length for an amp rating.  For the repair of an existing fusible link  use the same size and length.  For a new installation GM says to use a 10" and strip back 1/2' at both ends for connection.

 

I think the factory installed fusible link is done because it's cheap and doesn't take up any more room than the wire.  It can be a PIA to diagnose an open circuit in it if it's a clean break and replacing one takes several steps and is time consuming.

I would install a plug in fuse assembly and not be bothered with a fusible link.

 

 

I would completely agree with you. A blown fuse is much easier to find than a melted fusible link because the melted link may not be evident and you may overlook it when looking for a problem, but when you see a fuse, you automatically check it...... don't ask how I have come to this conclusion. I'm 60 and may have wasted a few hours if my life looking for something that was sitting right in front of me......

1 minute ago, Max Tune said:

 

 

I would completely agree with you. A blown fuse is much easier to find than a melted fusible link because the melted link may not be evident and you may overlook it when looking for a problem, but when you see a fuse, you automatically check it...... don't ask how I have come to this conclusion. I'm 60 and may have wasted a few hours if my life looking for something that was sitting right in front of me......

Max, I am 65 and garauntee I have wasted some hours looking for my glasses only to find them on my nose.

3 minutes ago, dripley said:

Max, I am 65 and garauntee I have wasted some hours looking for my glasses only to find them on my nose.

 

 

 

Twin brothers from different mother's.....LOL