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I apologize if this has been answered before, but I couldn’t find it, and I have to make a quick descision. I have an opportunity to buy a set of 17” wheels from a 2003. They have 315-70-17 BFG KO2’s on them. I am stock ride height. Any issues with rubbing or handling? I know they will be heavier, and will mess with final drive ratio. As far as fit, is there anything I am missing? Not sure if there were offset differences. 

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  • https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator?cid=_kenshoo_clickid_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiOO93uib3wIViYKzCh1XfQmYEAAYASAAEgI3dPD_Bw That is a drastic change in size. I am thinking

  • Dieselfuture
    Dieselfuture

    They will definitely rub on upper control arms when turning, I had 295 when bought the truck and they rubbed a little on full lock. 285 did not but we're close.

  • I have hummer tires and wheel that I believe are the same size. No rubbing and have a 2 in. Simple lift on the front

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https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator?cid=_kenshoo_clickid_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiOO93uib3wIViYKzCh1XfQmYEAAYASAAEgI3dPD_Bw

That is a drastic change in size. I am thinking they will rub somewhere. Lot of additional stress on the front end steering and considerable difference in final gear ratio.

 The rims will work fine but I personally would not buy them for the tires. The rims themselves are not hard to find or expensive by any means. They are only 2 years newer than your stockers.

They will definitely rub on upper control arms when turning, I had 295 when bought the truck and they rubbed a little on full lock. 285 did not but we're close.

I have hummer tires and wheel that I believe are the same size. No rubbing and have a 2 in. Simple lift on the front

  • Owner

Be aware...If you go this route. 

 

You'll need a lift kit in the front, an adjustable track bar. Possibly a new set of control arms to get the caster corrected. Then the gear ratio in the axle might have to be changed up because the final ratio to the ground will be too low. Then you are going to need the steering box brace to keep it from being damaged. 

 

Do your homework before slapping on a set of big tires. It might cost you more than you figured just to look cool.

 

the 3rd gen wheel has a slightly deeper offset than a 2nd gen...possible (Likely) rubbing on upper control arm

 

the H2 wheel has slightly lesser BS than 3rd gen, hence the no rub, and it is slightly wider, 

 

the tire should fit with the exception of control arm rub. 

 

i run a 285/75/17 on a 3rd gen wheel currently, i also have Metal Cloak control arms, thuren 2" (2.75" lift ) coils, and a synergy 3rd gen track bar amongst other 3rd & 4th gen parts

Edited by Stormin08

  • Author

Thanks for the responses. I think I am going to pass on them. I like the look, but there are far too many downsides. I wouldn’t mind the lift, but steering box damage and rubbing on control arms are a deal breaker. I will just buy a new set of tires for my 16’s and be happy! I have American Racing outlaw II’s on it, and they look good, just had something shiny catch my eye at a good price. With 3.55 gears, I think I was asking for trouble anyway. 

I'd still look for some 3rd gen wheels, the 17's will allow you to run the 3rd gen brakes as well.  My truck stops like it did when I had the stock tires on it. 

If you ever get your RAW above 6400 lbs I would look for 4th gen 18’s. 

 

17’s suck for any decent load rating. 

I took a set of factory aluminum wheels home from work. They were from a 15 or 16 I think. Had 265 / 65  18 goodyears on them half worn.

I was really liking the look of them.

I was pretty sure the bolt pattern was the same, and it was.

However they would only go half way over the rear axle hub on my 99.

I could have got them for a pretty good price but returned them, lesson learned.

Chris

   

2 hours ago, AH64ID said:

If you ever get your RAW above 6400 lbs I would look for 4th gen 18’s. 

 

17’s suck for any decent load rating. 

My 17s came off a 2012 srw 3500 I always thought it had to be better than original 16s I had, but never compared waight rating. 

14 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

My 17s came off a 2012 srw 3500 I always thought it had to be better than original 16s I had, but never compared waight rating. 

 

Generally speaking 17’s are worse than 16’s for weight rating for a similar size. 

 

It has to with fed regs. Somehow 17’s get screwed. 

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

Well hopefully they don't crack like the 16s

 

 

The wheels themselves seem to be very good, it’s just the tire weight rating that falls short of 16’s and 18’s. 

32 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

 

The wheels themselves seem to be very good, it’s just the tire weight rating that falls short of 16’s and 18’s. 

Makes sense now. 

  • Owner
23 hours ago, adamey1000 said:

With 3.55 gears, I think I was asking for trouble anyway.

 

With 3.55 gear optimal the 245's are the best ratio for common road driving. Interstate either 235's or 265's are perfect. If you want the larger tires you need to start with 4.10 gears at least for everything up to 35" tire. 37" tire would be best with 4.56 gears. This is the big mistake of all because so many people put 35 to 37 inch tires on 3.55 geared axles then end up eating driveline and transmissions and can't figure out why. Then complain about MPG being as low as 12 MPG and EGT's are through the roof towing even the smaller trailers.

 

Gearing is very important!

 

I still love hunting down 3rd gens with 37 inch tires on 3.42 gears. They lose street races easy. Look cool but no power.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

21 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Gearing is very important!

 

I still love hunting down 3rd gens with 37 inch tires on 3.42 gears. They lose street races easy. Look cool but no power.

 

Yes gearing is huge! 

 

Not a lot of 3rd gens with 3.42's thou. They were only an option for 2 model years and had to be coupled with a G56. The vast majority of SRW trucks are 3.73's with the 68RFE. 

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

I'll take a set of 3.73 with 285

 

I am very happy with 33’s and 3.73’s for 95% of how I drive. 

 

Every now and then 4.10’s would be nice when towing a TT at 65-70 on the interstate for hundreds of miles, but that’s maybe once a year. 

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.