So Im looking for a new clutch I like working with DAP, so I emailed them this: 

 

Also need to figure out which clutch I need to get.

When I bought the truck I was “told” it had a dragon flow vp44, 6x18’s, .093 lines and tubes, ham cam, springs, and 64/71/14 turbo and all the supporting mods and more. I did verify I have a valair competition dual disk (sintered iron) for pulling, I have taken all the electronics off of it and the only thing I havent verified is if the vp is infact a dragon flow… It does still have a ton of power so it might have it. I don’t plan on racing or pulling with this truck just a occasional driver or weekend truck and pulling a gooseneck with a skidsteer. I would guess the clutch would have to hold at least 600hp idk… and dual disk for towing. What do you think?

 

What do you guys think? He put this on the quote:

 

Valair Dual Disc Performance Replacement Clutch (Ceramic) 650HP NMU70NV45DDSN | 1989-2003 Dodge 5.9L Cummins With NV4500 or Getrag 5SPD

SKU: VAL-NMU70NV45DDSN

 

And yes I know it says for a nv4500... I need one for a nv5600... however...

 

I really dont have a good estimate of what I might be close to on power. I dont want to get a new one and slip it cause I have to many ponies...

I remember when my clutch on Mustang was going out, when I push it in, I could feel it in the pedal like it was grinding, throw out bearing was dry and coming upart. But it also had a cable clutch, not sure how much feel woiluld travel through hydraulics. Pilot I think would cause hard shifts as its binding and not letting input shaft to slow down. 

54 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I wouldn't be surprised if it is a dual disc because of all the rattle that comes from transmission when it's hot idling in netral. Push in clutch the noise goes away

 

The noise you have described with an idling engine and transmission in neutral is a normal sound for a dual disc clutch and a warmed up transmission.  The pulses from an idling long stroke diesel engine are transmitted through the heavier mass of the dual discs, intermediate plate, and pressure plate causing gear rattle in the transmission.  It is that rattle you are hearing, not the clutch assembly. 

 

When you depress the clutch pedal, the rotating mass comes to a stop - quiet! 

 

When you select a gear and engage the clutch - again, quiet, because the gears are now loaded and gear train slack is removed.

 

- John

 

 

Edited January 18, 20196 yr by Tractorman

Remember life span for ceramics will be much much less for a daily driver. Roughly about 40-50k miles and the flywheel and pressure plate will be ruined. I highly suggest against ceramic clutches on a daily driver. Being I've already changed two of them with less than 50k miles its not worth it. 

 

48k miles. Pressure plate and flywheel grooved.

 

 

Here is another at 40k miles pressure plate and flywheel grooved. 

Edited January 18, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

@Mopar1973Man I read the thread on this and can agree, but it seems I'm stuck with a ceramic due to my setup mentioned above. 

 

I daily drove the comp clutch that was in it, also towed... So I guess anything would be better than its grabby-ness. Yall should have a look at the pics on my other thread that had the clutch pics on what I took out. 

 

 

So this clutch -1  is about the only option 

 

I think this clutch -2  is what I currently have.( I think )  Pics are on the other thread. 

Edited January 18, 20196 yr by Stanley

2 hours ago, Tractorman said:

 

The noise you have described with an idling engine and transmission in neutral is a normal sound for a dual disc clutch and a warmed up transmission.  The pulses from an idling long stroke diesel engine are transmitted through the heavier mass of the dual discs, intermediate plate, and pressure plate causing gear rattle in the transmission.  It is that rattle you are hearing, not the clutch assembly. 

 

When you depress the clutch pedal, the rotating mass comes to a stop - quiet! 

 

When you select a gear and engage the clutch - again, quiet, because the gears are now loaded and gear train slack is removed.

 

- John

 

 

Mine behaves the exact opposite from your description.  I'm still convinced he has a bad throwout bearing

Mine gets noisier when I push clutch pedal in....

On 1/18/2019 at 3:52 PM, Stanley said:

Mine gets noisier when I push clutch pedal in....

Throwout bearing issues. If you running upgraded hydro and over adjusted you could be hyper-extending the throw out bearing too deep in the pressure plate fingers. This why I do NOT suggest upgrade hydros this is more common than you think. 

Do you have an article write up on the adjustment by chance? 

2 hours ago, Stanley said:

Do you have an article write up on the adjustment by chance? 

Thats the problem. There is no adjustment. My bearing starting several years back andI  actually shortened the slave rod trying to adjust until I got home. It was still making contact after cutting a quarter inch off. I did make home however. Screeching the whole way.

Edited January 20, 20196 yr by dripley

1 hour ago, Stanley said:

Do you have an article write up on the adjustment by chance? 

 

Nope. I just suggest going back to stock hydro personally.

 

The upgraded hydro is a fight to get it right either hyper-extending the throwout bearing or undershooting and having the clutch dragging. All I can say back off till the clutch drag when pressed then ad back just barely enough to free the clutch with the pedal to the floor.

On 1/18/2019 at 4:52 PM, Stanley said:

Mine gets noisier when I push clutch pedal in....

I believe in your case it's either throw out bearing or pilot bearing. 

@Tractorman I'm thinking you're right on my issue, that's what the transmission guy was telling me to. He did say because of the clutch your transmission rattles. He also mentioned something about springs in the disc, how some clutches don't have the springs. But I think that had more to do with jerkiness on taking off. I can't remember all the details but it does make sense. @trreed I'm not ruling out your theory either, just think mine has more to do with what tractorman mentioned. 

On 1/20/2019 at 1:36 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

The upgraded hydro is a fight to get it right either hyper-extending the throwout bearing or undershooting and having the clutch dragging. All I can say back off till the clutch drag when pressed then ad back just barely enough to free the clutch with the pedal to the floor.

Gonna have to prolly do this, among all the other things I need to buy, prolly wont have the cash to do replace what was on the truck... 

 

Furthermore, here is the old clutch again. Valair DD sintered iron competition pulling clutch...

 

Old clutch......

 

 

 

 

 

Couldnt find the pic of the old throw out bearing, but it was junk... also the fork pivots need replaced lol... so new clutch... HAHA 

Still trying to find out which clutch to go with, I believe my only options are the 650hp rated DD from either brand.... 

Edited January 22, 20196 yr by Stanley

The South Bend 3250 has been in 10 years. I had to pull tranny because of engine still looks good