So this 4wd 98 I just picked up is all over the road. Ive replaced all tie rods, both wheel hub assemblies and shocks and springs, it was all shot, except for the R hub assembly. Springs both had rubber spacers between the coils and shocks had no rebound. I had an alignment set at 0.07 total toe. R side cam bolt has a bent washer so i set those straight up and down. Truck pulls left driving down the road and pulls left when braking. Had small travel trailer in tow yesterday and had to hit the brakes hard in traffic and the truck darted over in the left lane. Track bar is tight but the steering box needs replaced. I did tighten the adjustment on top of the box and it took a lot of slop out but still not all. Ball joints are greaseable and in great shape with no binding. I also put in new sway bar bushings since the old ones were shot. Truck rides so much smoother now with new shocks and springs but just doesn't handle like it should. I cant keep replacing parts if they don't need replacing but I know these trucks can drive great. What do we think? Steering box, control arm bushings, steering shaft? Tires are 285/75R16 toyo open country a/t in great shape but i'm gonna rotate just'' to make sure nothing is going on with that front left tire.

Edited January 22, 20196 yr by 98whitelightnin

First fix any slop you got. Make sure every thing is tight. Brakes need to be looked at for binding or sticking.

I know, im gonna get a steering box next. I figured that the quicker ratio would make these trucks dart all over the road since im so used to sawing at the wheel but maybe the 3 1/4 turn ratio box might be better than the 4 turn. Which Blue Top did you go with Mike?

Do not do quick ratio. Only use quick ratio on stock and smaller tires. Your running 285's. Wrong ratio for larger tires and places too much stress on the box.

That's good to know. Blue Top is out of the quick ratio boxes anyway. I think I need to re-seal the vacuum pump so I'll do both when the time comes. Thank's for your help throughout the years Mike.

I’d check track bar and steering gear and put a frame brace on it.

Track bar seems really tight. The whole front end feels tight, no rattles or looseness while driving and hitting bumps or anything. I know the box is shot and im sure a frame brace wouldnt hurt either. I put one on the last 98 and it tightened it up nicely.

Just now, 98whitelightnin said:

Track bar seems really tight. The whole front end feels tight, no rattles or looseness while driving and hitting bumps or anything. I know the box is shot and im sure a frame brace wouldnt hurt either. I put one on the last 98 and it tightened it up nicely.

My front end is very tight as well but same deal my box has slop and is causing a lot of wander. I bet your truck would steer great if you grab a  luetop box and a frame brace.

I'll get some ordered this week and hopefully have a great driving truck in another couple weeks.

2 minutes ago, 98whitelightnin said:

I'll get some ordered this week and hopefully have a great driving truck in another couple weeks.

I’m planning to do a full front end rebuild soon. Converting to 4th gen t steering new box and the whole 9 yards. 

I forgot to mention. The wheel does not return to center when turning left. It will go back to center out of a right turn

27 minutes ago, 98whitelightnin said:

I forgot to mention. The wheel does not return to center when turning left. It will go back to center out of a right turn

I think that points to steering gear.

Steering box brace is good for oversized tires and wheels because the leverage forces they create. Hence why I'm not required for the brace using 245's.

 

Cause and effect... 

Steering box brace helped both my trucks with 265 75 16's. one brace was put on at 30k miles, everything still tight and It still made a difference.

Edited January 23, 20196 yr by JAG1

6 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Steering box brace helped both my trucks with 265 75 16's. one brace was put on at 30k miles, everything still tight and It still made a difference.

 

Considering the 245/75 R16 (30") was the early stock tire size then was changed to 265/75 R16 (31") later. 

 

Hence why the stock tire size was 245/75 R16 on the door sticker.

 

Edited January 23, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

Thank you Mike, I always assumed the 265's were stock tires because I never noticed that before 

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

Thank you Mike, I always assumed the 265's were stock tires because I never noticed that before 

They were offered as an option. I got 265s on mine at a small additional price. I have had a steering brace on mine and do not at the moment. I never really noticed much difference either way. Had wander with or without it. But my steering box is nearing the end of its life. So we will slap a Blue Top on it soon and see what happens with that. Mine had the wanders when it was new.

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

Thank you Mike, I always assumed the 265's were stock tires because I never noticed that before 

 

265's where offered because of the large tire craze at the time. Everyone loved the larger tires and looking beefy but came at a cost. Even I bit that too it looked cool that way but not worth a darn. Now after all the years and even larger tires and all the front axle issues that people created there are very little good points about larger tires other than they float on mud much better but horrid for the snow.

Edited January 23, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

I got my truck with 295s, few years later put on 285, now 265, never 245  I am getting used to look now and actually an inch or 2 lower makes easier to load the truck and rides better all around. Taking off in 2nd is also better. Definitely more beneficial with 3.55s now if I had 3.73 I would stick with 285 and not care about wear ant tear on front end, I fix it for no reason anyway most of time. People were definitely looking at menards when I was leaving with pile of 12' sheets of drywall in a 6.5' box truck ha ha. But it did it with no effort. 

I got a Blue Top ordered, hopefully be in next week.

15 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I got my truck with 295s, few years later put on 285, now 265, never 245  I am getting used to look now and actually an inch or 2 lower makes easier to load the truck and rides better all around. Taking off in 2nd is also better. Definitely more beneficial with 3.55s now if I had 3.73 I would stick with 285 and not care about wear ant tear on front end, I fix it for no reason anyway most of time. People were definitely looking at menards when I was leaving with pile of 12' sheets of drywall in a 6.5' box truck ha ha. But it did it with no effort. 

I am with you on the 265s. I can see the advantage towing with the 245s but dont t.wan to increaed the rpm cruising the highway. The Cooper ATPs have done well in the snow. I dont drive in snow a lot but have not struggled in it either.

Edited January 24, 20196 yr by dripley