Does my one have a list of supplies needed to do this. I couldn’t find an actual materials list in the articles about this mod. Thanks. 

I've been reading this thread with great interest the past day or so. I'm about to replace and upgrade my battery cables next week, and this seemed like a good time to do the WT Mod.

 

A couple of points I'm unclear on:

 

1. Cleaning up the grounds on the passenger side running up to the computer modules on the firewall, and...

 

2. Size of the negative crossover cable added between the batteries. Several different sizes have been mentioned in different posts, i.e. 4AWG, 4/0, and 2/0. What's optimum? Go as big as I can? My new positive crossover cable will be 2/0.

 

thanks!

Mike

Bigger the gauge less voltage lost in travel. This only counts most when you have long distance runs. Example the ground for the rear tail stuff are on the front fender. Now main cables count for high current flow like cold start mornings with high draw.

Thanks Mike!

I've decided to go with 2/0 since I'm running a 180 amp Nation's alternator.
Balancing the charge system seems a good way to go.

Mike

Anyone have any luck purchasing the bolt W-T referenced? M5 x 0.08

Local hardware store... Nothing difficult.

Same here, local building supply. There have been a very few that needed a slightly different size. Bigger or smaller I dont remember. 

On 10/16/2019 at 11:16 AM, psytechguy said:

2. Size of the negative crossover cable added between the batteries. Several different sizes have been mentioned in different posts, i.e. 4AWG, 4/0, and 2/0. What's optimum? Go as big as I can? My new positive crossover cable will be 2/0.

I can think of no persuasive reason to use a 4/0 or even 2/0 ground "crossover cable" to the other battery when you already have 1/0 grounds to the engine block from each battery.  The 4-gauge crossover wire will eliminate the voltage drops at each of those connections at the block, better ensuring you have the same voltage at each battery.  Sizing it the same as your alternator (4 gauge) wire seems a good rule of thumb.

 

The largest current draw by far is the starter, which grounds through the block - that is why each battery gets a large ground connected to it.  If you were to attempt grounding the engine to only one battery directly, then a large (1/0, for example) crossover wire to the other battery would certainly be recommended/required.  In that case the ground wire from the engine to the one battery should (probably) be upgraded to 2/0.

 

That said, if you want to spend the time and money to run 3" pipe to your ice maker, yes, it will reduce losses.  Mopar1973Man's recommendation to put some engine oil on the cable connections to keep them in great shape will net far greater returns.

I tend to agree. There is no reason for over kill cable sizes. The stock size is going to be just fine too. If your worried about it then consider doing the the voltage drop test on the main cables and see if the cable is dropping more than 0.2 volts over the run. If it is I would replace the entire cable and maybe increase one gauge size.

a little late to this party but while I had my truck in the garage taking care of some general maintenance , I tackled the ground mod while I was at it. I did it pretty much text book according to @W-T and @IBMobile instructions with good results, 

 

here is before, not to bad but room for improvement.

 

And after

Mine went from .035 to .01. I was impressed.

Ya, I’m glad I did this as I was testing my batteries because of Slow hard start when temps dropped bellow 10 degree F. I found the drivers side battery had a dead cell, probably been running on 1 battery for the last month or so, and as I was checking drivers battery ground to engine cable, I was going to soldier a new lug on it until I opened it up and saw this 

I did new cables and terminals a few years ago, all except for this one, time got away from me and never finished it until now, so I got this one buttoned up with new cable and lugs and a new military terminal like the rest of them 

Thats a bit ugly. I replced all of mine not long before doing the ground mod.

New to the site and found the info to be amazing.. will be doing this upgrade soon now that I know it’s an issue.. but I’m having a major problem with melting the stud off the back of the Alternator.. would this upgrade possibly fix that problem or is it a pcm issue? Please help and thanks in advance

44 minutes ago, Allenjar11 said:

but I’m having a major problem with melting the stud off the back of the Alternator.

 

Serious issue. There should be a 140A fuse protecting the alternator in the PDC.

• Is the alternator fuse in place?
• Has there been any electrical modified? 
• Large electrical loads added like winch or high wattage lighting?

Even with the W-T ground mod I used a 150A circuit breaker on the charge lead. It's mounted behind the passenger battery tray facing the firewall. 

 

Side notes. I just had a alternator rebuilt and talking to the rebuilder and he told me alternator diodes or alternator failure is typically other electric issue like bad grounds or bad connection that backfeeds the electrical system causing the damage. It is not common for alternator failure and it should be investigated deeper.  

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Serious issue. There should be a 140A fuse protecting the alternator in the PDC.

• Is the alternator fuse in place?
• Has there been any electrical modified? 
• Large electrical loads added like winch or high wattage lighting?

Even with the W-T ground mod I used a 150A circuit breaker on the charge lead. It's mounted behind the passenger battery tray facing the firewall. 

 

Side notes. I just had a alternator rebuilt and talking to the rebuilder and he told me alternator diodes or alternator failure is typically other electric issue like bad grounds or bad connection that backfeeds the electrical system causing the damage. It is not common for alternator failure and it should be investigated deeper.  

The 140 amp fuse is there and it’s good.. I’m getting 14.5 volts at the batteries and the stud off the new alternator I installed last night.. nothing crazy as far as electrical modifications go, it does have an aftermarket stereo and speakers w/subwoofer and amp.  Those connections and grounds I’ve checked already and they are fine.. that’s why I was wondering if it was maybe a issue elsewhere.. I disconnected the grid heaters and turned off everything that would pull voltage and the alternator is still putting our 14.5 volts at idle.. shouldn’t the pcm engage and disengage the alternator after batteries see a certain voltage? 

Edited February 5, 20205 yr by Allenjar11

PCM only charges what it needs. The charging system is basically the same from 1963. The only difference we have battery temp sensor where old school used air temp around the external regulator which was poor design at best. Typically 13.2 at the lowest and 14.8 at the highest.

So it’s sounding like a ground issue then I’m assuming? I was having intermittent cruise control issues as well so that’s the main reason for doing this mod/upgrade as far as that’s concerned would that possibly fix any ground issues I may or not be having? Just need a base to start with more or less. I know the voltage regulator is in the pcm so that’s why I was questioning it as a possible problem

Edited February 5, 20205 yr by Allenjar11

Excessive AC noise comes out as a cruise control surge because the tach signal is a AC signal and the alternator noise will flood the PCM and ECM with noise fouling everything from transmission shift issues to even speedometer issues.

Thanks!!!!

So I'm doing this test now, but has anyone ever seen where the odometer doesnt pop up at all? Like when you first turn ignition all the lights come on the dash? Mine don't..just wts, blinkers, high beams, all good, but at one point my mileage rest to 0?? I have 512xxx miles on this guy...radio doesn't work. And cant get truck to crank...real slow turnover, gm was getting p1693/1689/1687 and one more I cant recall....did the WT ground mod and now its p1693 only...checking IP now at wiring harness

Also I have done the W-T mod and alternator protection to aux batt..added a buddies good PCM and got same codes I think its ECM, but I really dont have 400++ to throw at it right now..

IDK how to make the sign so forgive my noobness on the forum game, long time reader, first time poster. Smarty Touch (at stock since issues occured, also only way for me to read codes, but my buddy has a handheld that also brought up the 1689 code, twice...on his its says manufacturer control)

Also have brand new batteries and turn over is still weak, I'm thinking I burned starter up.

Edited February 7, 20205 yr by JAG1