So I've been doing research lately, and had a sneaking suspicion that I had a leak somewhere after my injection pump. After looking hard, sure enough #5 fuel line was slightly wet. I said screw it and ordered an injection seal kit from thoroughbred (I think), and while I was at it I broke all the injectors down, soaked them in naptha, cleaned them more with b12 chemtool, then reassembled according to spec. 

With the new washers on, I've popped all them in by hand, set the crossover tubes in by hand, and now I'm about to torque the injector hold down clamps. The injectors are sitting higher than normal, is that normal? I figure the new copper washers haven't been seated yet, so they're up a bit higher, but is it OK to crank down those tiny 8mm bolts to seat them? 

Edited April 6, 20196 yr by Ravewolf

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Timing is too retarded for few revving typically. Even my truck will do the same thing this is totally normal.

 

 

Hrm. Ok, I'll quit worrying about it then. Also, I found the problem! 

It helps when all the copper sealing rings are the same thickness. Can't believe I didn't catch it. This goes to show you can never be too careful. 

12 hours ago, Ravewolf said:

I didn't get it started today, as I ran out of daylight. But Dieselfuture pointed out my torque values were wrong on the nozzles, and they're way too tight. I'm going to yank them tomorrow and tear them down again. Hopefully I didnt screw anything up.... 

Me and my damn bright ideas

I don't know if I do worry about them now, you already have them installed and running. Torque is more for not stripping the threads and yet be tight enough so it don't come apart. Unless you really like pulling them in and out. Are they original, how many miles on them.

7 hours ago, Ravewolf said:

They aren't used, they came with the truck

This would mean they are used. How much is anyones guess unless you know how long they have been in there.

2 hours ago, dripley said:

This would mean they are used. How much is anyones guess unless you know how long they have been in there.

True. As an update on the truck, it's running again, but sounds like a couple of cylinders are dead. Tried running it at 1500 rpm, but there was so much white smoke I had to stop. Thought the law was gonna show up. 

Idk guys. I'm lost right now as to what to do except park it and see if I can find somebody with more experience than me. 

If any Colorado guys want to come help me it'd be appreciated. 

Could be a weak vp, and not throwing a code 

I would have to think it is something you messed with, nothing personal. Mine acted very similar after #6 valve bridge fell off after the head gasket install. Know anyone with a spare set of injectors you can try?

52 minutes ago, Ravewolf said:

Tried running it at 1500 rpm, but there was so much white smoke I had to stop. Thought the law was gonna show up. 

Isn't Colorado used to white smoke by now 

32 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Isn't Colorado used to white smoke by now 

Iive in New Mexico but I'm 6 miles from the Colorado border. Stuff ain't legal here yet. Pretty soon though lol. 

1 hour ago, dripley said:

I would have to think it is something you messed with, nothing personal. Mine acted very similar after #6 valve bridge fell off after the head gasket install. Know anyone with a spare set of injectors you can try?

I don't, I wish I did know someone. It seems like theres a ton of air in it still. It takes forever to start, and just pours white smoke when I rev it. I cracked lines 1,3,4,and 5,and they were spraying ok. I didn't get 2 because the air horn and grid heater were in the way, and six was blocked by the lift bracket. Can I take it off and just put the bolts back in? And can I run the truck without the grid heater and air horn on? I could get all the injectors then. 

Edited April 16, 20196 yr by Ravewolf

I have a set of used stock injectors, pay the shipping and they will be on their way I have several sets laying around with tubes right now the ones I will send were pulled from a good running truck where my friend wanted more zing and went bigger.  All the shops around here don't charge for cores so between all of us using Cummins trucks all 5.9 only one 3rd gen rest are 2nd including my mechanic who has 3 Cummins 2nd gens are starting to pile up injectors he gave me a free set of cores so I can pass on this favor.  PM me if you want.

Edited April 16, 20196 yr by WiscoRedkneck

17 minutes ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

 

17 minutes ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

I have a set of used stock injectors, pay the shipping and they will be on their way I have several sets laying around with tubes right now the ones I will send were pulled from a good running truck where my friend wanted more zing and went bigger.  All the shops around here don't charge for cores so between all of us using Cummins trucks all 5.9 only one 3rd gen rest are 2nd including my mechanic who has 3 Cummins 2nd gens are starting to pile up injectors he gave me a free set of cores so I can pass on this favor.  PM me if you want.

Hell yea man, I'll take em! You've got mail! 

This is why I love this website! Brotherhood of the Cummins! 

Edited April 16, 20196 yr by Ravewolf
Accidentally did a thing

Btw some may call me a hoarder for taking their old junk but hey the right "thing" that is someone's junk can usually be repurposed or rebuilt and maybe save my butt or someone else's so cheers to being a "hoarder" lol.

Edited April 16, 20196 yr by WiscoRedkneck

Gotta ask did you tighten the injectors hold down first or the cross over tubes first?

10 hours ago, Ravewolf said:

I don't, I wish I did know someone. It seems like theres a ton of air in it still. It takes forever to start, and just pours white smoke when I rev it. I cracked lines 1,3,4,and 5,and they were spraying ok. I didn't get 2 because the air horn and grid heater were in the way, and six was blocked by the lift bracket. Can I take it off and just put the bolts back in? And can I run the truck without the grid heater and air horn on? I could get all the injectors then. 

1, 3, 4 and 5 with good fuel to them should start the engine just fine. It will idle rough until all the air is out but it should run. You can run it with the intake horn off no problem. I had to hunt my lifting bracket up. Took it off 8 or 9 years ago while replacing my oe injectors. The only time you really need it is for removing the head. I did not put the bolts back in the block but cannot see them being there an issue. 

 

See what happens with different injectors.

15 hours ago, Ravewolf said:

 

Did you by any chance adjust your valves or mess with the push rod adjusters?

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Gotta ask did you tighten the injectors hold down first or the cross over tubes first?

Crossover tubes, per dynamite diesel instructions, then injectors. I also held my finger on the tubes and spun the injectors a bit to make sure they were seated. 

 

5 hours ago, dripley said:

1, 3, 4 and 5 with good fuel to them should start the engine just fine. It will idle rough until all the air is out but it should run. You can run it with the intake horn off no problem. I had to hunt my lifting bracket up. Took it off 8 or 9 years ago while replacing my oe injectors. The only time you really need it is for removing the head. I did not put the bolts back in the block but cannot see them being there an issue. 

 

See what happens with different injectors.

I will once I get a stock set. Also I'm going to try and bleed all six injectors while it's running and see if that helps. I also noticed my fp gauge was bouncing while the truck was running. I think I might have to bleed the injection pump more. All in all it just acts like there's still a ton of air in it. 

 

56 minutes ago, dripley said:

Did you by any chance adjust your valves or mess with the push rod adjusters?

No, I did awhile back, but they needed to be adjusted at that point anyway. Only thing I did this time under the valve cover was remove the injectors. 

 

Just wanted to give you all a quick update on my truck. 

Got the new injectors from WiscoRedkneck, and they worked like a charm. Truck runs alot better also. Down on power obviously because of stock injectors, but it drives much, much smoother. Also starting is a dream, I barely hit the key and it lights off. Hasn't sputtered much either, just small amounts. I'm starting to think the old 150s were going out in it and it wasn't running like it should have. 

Still getting them rebuilt in the future, but for now I'm rolling stockish. Can't wait until my hx35 comes in finally. 

HX35W will be a bit better upgrade. Spools just a bit slower but can handle a good solid 35 PSI without much issues. You can push 40 PSI but it gets hot on the EGT's side. OK for sprinting. 

I'm a heavy mobile plant tech. Have worked for Caterpillar, Finning the cat uk dealer and 4 large quarries mainly large cat and volvo machines I or anyone I know have never stripped an injector due to not being able to keep parts clean enough. These things are sonic cleaned and fingers and rag etc never touch them, all torque figures need to be right preferrably with a calibrated torque wrench as bodies are easily warped, tolerances are that tight that even heat off of fingers on one part can make it tight in it's mating part. Just something we never touch

A little late to the conversation but I'll throw this iron on the fire. Replace crossover tubes, I know 500 people reuse them but that 501 is me and yes it will bite you in the azz. I had a dead cylinder miss that I tore down 3 times and my I told you so brother said its a cross over. I blew them out all 3 times but there was crap inside one that wouldn't come out with air and that's all it was. Also they are a softer metal designed to crush(that's how it seals) been there done that.