i need to install a fuel pressure gauge when my truck s running again. I have seen alot of them on the internet with price varying alot. which is the best to have, mechanical or electric? or is there any differance in the performance of either? I do like the one that mopar has with the green range on it but can't seem to find that gauge anywhere. I can hook up either i just want to do it once and not twice. any help is appreciated.

I just replaced the sending unit today for the third time on my Glow Shift gauges. The made me pay S/H on th second but not the the last one. This time i moved it away from the pump thinking that vibration was making them go out. The second one did not last 15 miles before it started to show very high readings then just peg at 35psi. Checked it with a manual gauge screwed into the banjo bolt at the pump to compare, manual at 20, electric at 35. altogether i have 4 add on gauges, trans temp, fuel pressure, boost, and EGT. They are all Glow Shift and work good and all, it just the sending unit on the fuel psi thats has been an issue.

the disadvantage to running a mechanical pressure gauge in the cab is the fact that there is now diesel fuel in the cab with you and you could imagine the mess if it goes to leaking:nono: i suggest installing a electric gauge with sending unit more complex setup but no fuel in cab ive installed isspro gauges with good luck there pretty much oem standard in heavy duty applications so simple well built gauge

the disadvantage to running a mechanical pressure gauge in the cab is the fact that there is now diesel fuel in the cab with you and you could imagine the mess if it goes to leaking:nono: i suggest installing a electric gauge with sending unit more complex setup but no fuel in cab ive installed isspro gauges with good luck there pretty much oem standard in heavy duty applications so simple well built gauge

You don't want to look at my truck then.. Mechanical gauge direct connect to the fuel line... No isolator... But I do use a needle valve and its barely cracked open so if it did leak it would only drip... So far nearly 7 years no problems... But I did find a awesome secret... Use 1/8 air line from NAPA (Polyon) its really cheap but its oil and fuel capable. It extremely flexible and won't break. It rated for like 200 PSI so I doubt a mere 15-20 PSI fuel system will break it...

Mines settup just like Mike's and it works great. I use a mechanical Di Pricol gauge and it matches the fastory cluster pretty good.

okinawa japan, where the hell do you park that thing over there. 98wl:stuned:

okinawa japan, where the hell do you park that thing over there. 98wl:stuned:

Unfortunatly, it rests in my dads shop back in Texas.

ahh that makes more sense the movies always show small little parking garages in japan. do you have a sweet little hot rod scooter over there:thumb1:

ahh that makes more sense the movies always show small little parking garages in japan. do you have a sweet little hot rod scooter over there:thumb1:

Here is my little hot rod

and all three cylinders of it:wow: Hey, it is a 12v.

sweet i see suzuki badges but never seen that body in the states it must get like 70 mpg. steering wheels on the wrong side though:cookoo: does it get some getting use too.

I run a Pricol 0-30psi electric for fuel, it works great. I also run a Pricol 0-100 electric for oil, again no issues.