The truck I bought 10 months ago had a lot of frame, cab corner/rocker, front fender rust.   The rear fender just starting to blister in the wheel well and the  cab floor boards are solid with some light surface rust some spots.   That being said I could deal with these rust issues but...

 

 

Copied this thread over from Cumminsforum.com since can not upload photos...

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/auto-body/2482091-1999-ram-2500-rusted-out-cab.html

 

 

Quote

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/auto-body/2482091-1999-ram-2500-rusted-out-cab.html

 

 

I also have another rust out location which totally caught me off guard!

I have a broken dash, a leaking heater core and water leak around rear window so removed all of the interior.

After removing the instrument panel from the truck, notice some daylight between driver 'A' pillar and the steering column cab support. Poking at the rusty sheet metal and my fingers went right through.  

Remove the wipers and cowling cover to get a better idea what is going on. Notice on this truck the firewall does not go all the way up to the windshield but there is a large plenum space. The interior cab side of this space the seam sealer coating in the trough has all flaked apart. The space by the driver A pillar has heavy rust from where water was standing. The drains are in the cowling space. Truck was parked outside for three years on a uphill incline so assume this was cause with the water pooled in this location.

Debating course of action - since I will also have to deal with rocker/cab corner replacement on both sides, a cab replacement from a drier southern location may be better option.

Right now leaning to just address the rusted areas and weld in new metal where base metal is thin.

Need suggestion recoating the inside of this plenum space.

Bob G.

 

 

 

Edited June 4, 20195 yr by JD435
Add a line

If I was in that position I would change the cab.

 

They are cheaper then the hassle.

 

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All+States&userIMS=&userInterchange=%3F%3D%3FB&userSide=&userDate=1999&userDate2=1999&dbModel=22.31.11.11&userModel=Dodge Truck-2500 Series (1994 Up)&dbPart=154.1&userPart=Cab&sessionID=11000000095789452&ref=mobileweb&userPreference=grade&userZip=24382&userLat=36.9511000&userLong=-81.1120000&userIntSelect=694795&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey=

Mine is not as bad , but more than once I thought about what if and every time a rust free cab sounded like a good idea. 

I have to vote for a cab swap after seeing the prices and all the odd shapes needing replacement. Looks very labor intensive. 

Same here, that cab is too far gone. 

 

Always got to make sure to wash all mud and vegetation of the truck that includes flushing the cowl out. Up here with Idaho DOT using more and more salt you got to make sure the mud is nowhere on the truck. The mud holds the salt to the metal and then continues to rot the body.

15 hours ago, Timd32 said:

If I was in that position I would change the cab.

 

They are cheaper then the hassle.

 

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All+States&userIMS=&userInterchange=%3F%3D%3FB&userSide=&userDate=1999&userDate2=1999&dbModel=22.31.11.11&userModel=Dodge Truck-2500 Series (1994 Up)&dbPart=154.1&userPart=Cab&sessionID=11000000095789452&ref=mobileweb&userPreference=grade&userZip=24382&userLat=36.9511000&userLong=-81.1120000&userIntSelect=694795&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey=

 

A few days ago started looking on car-parts down south in NC,SC,GA to see what is available.  This got me thing about cab swap after seeing a few cab potentials then decide to search from zip 78108 in Texas where my wife has some family who we visit at xmas every few years.  Frustrated not having the opportunity to go truck shopping and searching the junk yards while down there...

Well found several 2-door std cab with same silver color in good shape looking at the photos down in that part of of the country.

I seen those trucks list when searching.  There are alot of 1500's out there!

 

Questions: 

- Is the 1500 cab same as a 2500/3500 std cab? 

- Is the transmission tunnel part of the floor different regarding auto/manual other than the floor opening for the stick?

- Some listing say 'Cab Assembly' and have a higher price - assume this means complete cab with remaining interior?

- Seeing cabs in the $200 to 500 range - assume these would be price for a stripped down cab?

- Any one buy a cab through the Car-part network and have it shipped a good distances?

 

My current thinking is just patch the hole to get the truck drivable in order to do a road trip for a replacement cab.

 

Bob G.

 

 

location dependant....

i locate rust free 1500's on a daily basis.

 

i am eyeing one nownfor myself, siler qc 1500 2wd...fairly low miles, rust free and no body damage, just midly faded paint, but clear is intact.

it runs great, and does drive but trans slips...$2200.  

 

total steal in my book when you price time and labor of body work. now with having a company truck again...mine just might get all pretty again.

 

19 hours ago, JD435 said:

Any one buy a cab through the Car-part network and have it shipped a good distances?

All my local places on that service are quality yards, I dont see any local places on my lists that I would not deal with.

 

We ship all sorts of stuff for my business, its really up to the shipper not the yard. Get a bad driver you get extra damage, get a good driver you get same level of damage as was loaded. 

 

Ask for some extra pics and exactly what is included.

 

Im not sure but I remember folks saying the 1500s are good cabs for 2500/3500.

 

 

Ram 1500, 2500, 3500 cab, doors, hood, grill, fenders, and interior parts are the same.  Suspension, brakes, and drivetrain are a different animal.

,

I go to the pic-a-part yards, there are 5 of them with in 50 miles of me, all the time.  You can find Ram 1500 all the time but 2500/3500 are rare, they're V10s and no diesels    In SoCal there is very little rust on these parts due to no snow/salt on the road and no flood damange.

Yup. Diesels sold before they hit the dirt... Tough to get engine stuff that way.

Would a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 standard 2-door cab work the replace a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 cab?

Found possible one on Craiglist

https://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/d...894211887.html

 

The he first three photos is my truck and photo 4 to 7 is the Ram 1500 on Craiglist.

 

Thanks everyone,

Bob G

The hood, left and right door and fender part numbers are the same for 1997 and 1999 so the cab will be the same.

Keep coming across 1500 cabs on diesels around here. To me they're trucks to stay away from. Not because there had but because there all peice together and never finished 

Edited June 25, 20195 yr by Evan

Hi Evan,

 

Can you elaborate regarding the issue with using Dodge RAM 1500 cabs on a 2500/3500 truck.    I was told the cabs was all the same except if auto->manual would require cutting shifter hole.

 

In two weeks, I will be going down to North Carolina to pickup a rust-free 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 cab, front clip and hood to replace all rusted salt-saturated seamed sheet metal.

 

Bob G. 

 

 

depending on year, the cab is basically the same...obviously the 94-97 dash is different as will be the mounting for it, but easily fixed.

 

the shifter hump is there on a manual, the autos have the indents to locate.

Well just an update...  I bought the rust-free cab, passenger door, both fenders, hood and front support. 

 

Last Saturday (5th), my wife and I drove down to Hampton, VA (three hours)  to pick up a Budget Rental van and traveled another hour to Moyock NC to pick everything up.    Learned a hard lesson.  When I got there, we could not fit the cab in the truck by a few inches - did not figure the door opening and the online dimensions where not the actual dimensions.  S!@#  I had measured my cab and needed at least 75".  While research trucks I saw a dimension of 7' 8".   I should have measured the truck before taking delivery at least.  Remembered measure twice and  cut once...    Well loaded up everything else and head home. 

 

Now looking to make a second trip which will not kill me $permile plus cost of truck.  Trying to rent a 3/4 flatbed truck - does not seem any of the rentals have these trucks.

I just picked up an enclosed trailer 7x14, when I was there the place rents trailers, not like a uhaul its a just a real trailer place.

 

Maybe there is a place local to you that does that.

 

www.Traileroutlet.com which is no where near VA but you can see what kind of place im talking about.

 

http://www.traileroutlet.com/trailer-services/trailer-rentals/

 

Edited July 12, 20195 yr by Timd32

Timd32 - Thank you for the response,

 

A trailer not possible without truck.   I have been restoring the truck in my sig for one year now.  I need a dependable truck which will not let me down and break the bank.   My 88 Ford F250 (gas) has something wrong every time I take it on the road.   Totally untrustworthy - just use it on my land. Also have a F250 with the 7.3 IDI diesel (need rebuild) - bought at scrapped value and original going this route until the Dodge came around.  As rusty running Dodge/Cummins still brings good money in Virginia.  People very proud of their CTD here and get offended offering a lower price on a 20 year truck.  Price .

 

I asked locally here if anyone want to go down and pickup the cab for me.  Most said to far to travel.  One taker yesterday said he could do yesterday after he finish his morning run.   We agreed on $500 for the 450 mile round trip.  Late morning said he quote to low but could do it for $800 on Saturday.

 

Also checked United Rental which have rented from in the past.  The website listed 3/4 ton flatbed truck but when I called, the person said they dont have this truck and no on the east coast stock them for one-day rentals.  Most of them are in the midwest and could have one ship for long term lease.

 

Sorry for the long wind..  Dont mind doing another one day round trip myself, just trying to keep the cost down.

 

Will be back looking at rental box trucks with a measuring tape in hand.

 

Bob G.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Got it....

 

Yeah been there, we rented a enterprise box truck with lift gate was a few hundred for 2 or 3 days.

 

Penske I think owns Rent-A-Wreck, they have those small box trucks, they worked wellfor us once, and could be options.

 

Good luck, it will be worth it in the end.

 

 

 

What make/ model truck did you get because I  aligned up a truck with enterprise for next weekend for $140 per day and $0.20 per mile.  Will have to go over the mountain to get it.  They list width as 8' but I think this outside dimension.

 

Sent Enterprise an email for clarification.

 

By the way I grew up in Monmouth county in Morganville when it was still rural.  We moved to Virginia in 1980 during the recession.

 

https://www.enterprisetrucks.com/truckrental/en_US/vehicles/smallcabtrucks/business16.html

 

 

Isuzu Cabover, we needed the lift gate, once your in one there are a millon of them all over. Penske, Hertz, Enterprise, they all run those.

 

The lift gates on all of the rentals have a pretty steep angle to the platform.

 

I have a Tommy Gate on the back of my '18 2500, it sits much flatter. 

 

 

Edited July 13, 20195 yr by Timd32