I'm getting payed pretty good to build a dump truck. My truck runs prett toasty pulling grades when heavy. Empty wich it is 99% of the time fine.

Running smarty on 9 3 3 7x09 smoky doesnt matter where smarty is set..

Was thinking head studs turbo and 3peice bd manifold in one wack. 7x10 injectors later.

 

What gateless turbos are available?  I've looked alittle and see delete plates but no turbos built gateless.

My turbo hy35 is making a fluttering sound lately that's a new sound.  Might be rubbing the wheel.  

 

Or should I love with the higer temps and get some .320 injectors to possibly clean up smoke . Would my temps go up I'd bump up to the 7x10s

 

I'm not going to do a quad yet. Smarty is working well making very good power. I'd like to get the mechanical side first. I can't blame it entirely on the smoke. I've probly got 50k or more on these 7x09 sac injectors. 

 

I'll will do a hx40 vband and may fab a 5" down pipe. Been rding up parts to do the down pipe. Probably just by a hx40 pipe. My time lately is scarce to come by. Its spent burning up the freeway 

 

Thanks for the ideas on this

 

 

Edited September 5, 20195 yr by Evan

Awesome that's more than enough

Like @Me78569 posted... 7 x 0.010 injectors and HX35/40 which is just a (60/60/12) small upgrade ot the stock HX35W (54/60/12). Still spools fairly fast and get the job done with cool EGT's. But the other half of the magic is Smarty doesn't give the timing control you need to get the job done with cool EGT's. Personally, I don't think a turbo will fix that problem I just think the smarty is too retarded creating the high EGT's.

 

As most of you know I managed to eat the teeth off of 5th gear with my setup. 

Wonderd where ya been. 

My hy35 is headed soutb.

 

Hoping I love the 62 65 14

 

If I do I'll run up there so you can run it. Actually I'm not sure itl bolt on your down pipe. You have that damn exhaust brake

 

What does eating your 5th gear have to do with anything? 

 

Not sure my egts are out of the norm I can pull most grades at the speed limit maintaining 12.5 theres a few I have to peddle of alot . What I want is the hard pulls at a lower temp. Most the time I cant get what I want. On these types of pulls you arent running your 23deg or whatever anyways and are likely right there with me in temps

 

Been watching the hy. It lights right at 1500rpm in 3rd locked pulling out of the under moderate throttle 62 will probly light around 16-17

Edited September 6, 20195 yr by Evan

14cm2 might be too laggy.  I would not be able to run it. 12cm2 yes no problem that would have good spool up and clear smoke fast. The common is a 62/68/12 most people like that as a street turbo.

 

Still in all the magic is in timing. More timing will make the EGT's cooler also drop the cruising boost to near zero. This is why I cruise at 80 MPH (2,500 RPM) at mere 650*F EGT's and about 4 to 5 PSI. Timing wise I'm around 26.89* of timing. Smarty capped out long ago at like 19*.

14 might not be to laggy. 

 

Well if I like like it that's why I'll push you to try it.

Well put magic numbers to side bolt some **** on and try it.

 

I'm unsure if what timing has to do with anything yanking a excavator up grade in 3rd at 65 foot at 3/4 maybe full throttle

 

Edited September 6, 20195 yr by Evan

22 minutes ago, Evan said:

Well if I like like it that's why I'll push you to try it.

 

That would be nice but I need a transmission first. Being I blew 5th gear away.

Your turbos working. Would just be something to try.

 

I thought you were saying your badass set up was so badass it took 5.

I believe its badass but not the reason behind your recent heart ache. **** just happens.

No one know what caused mine as of yet. 

 

Still in all I can test nothing till I can connect the engine to the wheel with a transmission. Sorry @Evan...

 

Ill do some driving on it see how it goes I'm sure youl have yours up and running soon

Yup. I will. 

 

Things I've learned on the Quadzilla. You need to find out how much timing the engine will allow but running WOT up the RPM band. Keep inching the timing up in all RPM placements till bucking is felt then back of a degree or so. Then you found you max timing. Now set the 2 retard curves. One is load based timing and how much retard happens at low throttle. Then there is a second retard which is for sudden high throttle and how quickly it drop and are resumes the performance timing. As you figure this out you can place the peak power where you which. Most of my past tunes I was building with a peak in the 1,500 to 2,000 RPM realm. Fuel mapping is nice too because once the turbo starts to spool you can map to pour on the fuel after its spooled up. 

 

Turbo relies on drive pressure from the engine. So to get instant spool up you need to drop a fair amount of retard to push more expanding gases at the turbine. Now once its spooled you can resume the advancement and then continue to add fuel to the fire and it will continue to build. 

A trick I'm still studying is oil temp vs coolant temperature. If timing is overly advanced the oil temperature will be higher than coolant temperature. This is because the cylinder walls are exposed to more flame and the coolant jacket near the oil cooler is soaked with excessive heat. As you retard timing the flame moves up in the stroke more into the head more. This where the typical -10*F of oil temp comes from. As injectors get bigger the timing has to be increased, period there is no way around it. With more fuel you need more time to get the fuel to go from liquid mist, to vapor, to BANG! but do it in such a manner that the BANG! is productive and pushing that piston the most it can.

 

That 14cm2 I really wonder what will happen and how it will respond. Don't get me wrong I'm very curious of the turbo and what it will do. 65/62/14 should be good sizes on the turbine and compressor but just not sure of the 14cm2. side of things. Will there be enough focus of the exhaust gases to get it to spin? Time will tell.

 

 

Yes I cant wait.

I hoping for quickish spool and lower temps maybe alittle more power.. I've been noticing inconsistent power. I think due to bearings being sloppy in the turbo.

 

Our 07 6.7 is just a couple miles shy of 400. I've noticed it smoking noticably more lately and power is down.  Its deleted used to have obnoxious whistle that has stopped all together. I haven't had time to mess with it cause the boss is fearful to put any more money and time in it

no whistle means the turbo actuator is toast.  You are running the housing wide open at 25^2

2 hours ago, Evan said:

Our 07 6.7 is just a couple miles shy of 400. I've noticed it smoking noticably more lately and power is down.

 

Yeah.. I just had one towed here and dropped in the yard with P0606 code. 

 

Then I just got a call for a second one stuck about 5 miles south of me. Both are 2012 Ram 6.7L trucks. 

I'll look into actuator 

Bought a turbo gasket set for 5 bucks turbo to manifold bolts. Grrr and then I find them in manifold box.

 

One look at these 6 manifold gaskets and I decided to I'll go get studs. Looks like I'll have to retain one bolt for heater core doohickey. 

 

Got the manifold sprayed and ready to back. It came bare

It's some kinda 1300-2000 flame proof ceramic.  I've backed rifle barrels with it its pretty  durable 

 

I was thinking to sand of the smeding on the turbo and do it blue with silver exhaust 

Wonder if I should have gone 62 68 14.

 

Been researching the race housing supposed to flow 25cfm more than standerd housing. But on the too where I'll likely never go and maybe spool slower

 

The 12 exhaust housing is suposebly good for 50 to 100 injectors.  14 good for 100-150

 

It's hard to find actual  sxe specs due to all diesel shops and vendors getting they're hands on them. 

I'm using a custom hx35/40 62/67/12 with 7x10, works fine for what I do. Just came back from fishing trip in Canada pulling my boat, maybe 3k with trailer. Even on some bigger hills I only downshifted a few times, not because engine couldn't pull it I was just going too slow because of Canadian speed limits.

DAP 7 x 0.010 injectors (+150 HP) on a 60/60/12 HX35/40 Hybrid turbo. 

 

I'm much smaller than every one else and just nearly the same as a HE351 (60/60/9) that lot of people like as a upgrade on these trucks. 

7 hours ago, Evan said:

Wonder if I should have gone 62 68 14.

 

Been researching the race housing supposed to flow 25cfm more than standerd housing. But on the too where I'll likely never go and maybe spool slower

 

The 12 exhaust housing is suposebly good for 50 to 100 injectors.  14 good for 100-150

 

It's hard to find actual  sxe specs due to all diesel shops and vendors getting they're hands on them. 

 

a 62/68/12 is good for 200+ hp injectors with proper tuning or 7 x .010's without  I wouldn't even consider running that turbo with 50's lol.

with proper tuning 7 x .010's are GREAT for a stock hx35.  

 

a 62/68/12 is good for 500 + hp. Issue with the injector size limit is most tuners run VERY large duration and TONS of wiretap to push injectors to the limit.  It is a MUCH better idea to run bigger injectors and less duration to = the same power.    Diesel shops put these small injector limits on the turbos to protect their butts from guys running Smartys stacked with Edges or similar.   


Remember I towed my gooseneck over I70 at 10,000 altitude with a he351ve ( 60/60/3-25 cm housing) with 7x .012's (aka 250 hp injectors) without issues. 

I keep harping on it, but 

 

tuning, tuning, tuning.   It's only the 2nd gen crowd that overlooks the importance of tuning.  

Edited September 11, 20195 yr by Me78569

48 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

 

a 62/68/12 is good for 200+ hp injectors with proper tuning or 7 x .010's without  I wouldn't even consider running that turbo with 50's lol.

with proper tuning 7 x .010's are GREAT for a stock hx35.  

 

 

Eventually plan on getting a 62/68/12. But are you saying 7 x .011's are better for the size turbo? I already have 7 x .010s to go in.