Bits and pieces of this are in 2 different places here so i decided to start a new thread on this. I'll list all prices and where i bought everything at the end. I'm doing this as cheap as i can, but the way i think will be most problem free. If you see something i did wrong or need to change let me know.

  I started with a used exhaust flange and vacuum cylinder. Took a few days to get the butterfly free and cleaned up but its working now. I had to buy a vacuum solenoid and i am using push to connect fittings and line for most of it. Reason for this is if i have to change to an air cylinder i wont have to change my plumbing.

 Amazon should have the rest of my parts here by Sunday so until then I'll figure out mounting locations and build the wiring harness. 

Are you reusing those test port threaded plugs or are they new?  

@015point9 the hex head plug came out and i reused it. The allen head plug is stuck. I'd have to drill it out so its staying. Theres a 1/16" plug that you can't see thats used to lube the shaft. I drilled it out and saved the threads. Put in a new pipe plug. Lubed everything with copper anti-seize.

40 minutes ago, Gregturley said:

@015point9 the hex head plug came out and i reused it. The allen head plug is stuck. I'd have to drill it out so its staying. Theres a 1/16" plug that you can't see thats used to lube the shaft. I drilled it out and saved the threads. Put in a new pipe plug. Lubed everything with copper anti-seize.

 

(I don't know hardly anything about our trucks,  that is until it breaks, then I seem to learn how to fix)...For what its worth...A plug came lose on my BD brake, it burned a hole above and melted something, cant remember exactly what now. . But it makes a hell of a racket with the plug gone.   I called BD.  They said only to replace with brass "solid head" and secure with stainless steel  "security wire".  As cast iron bolts would rust up big time and very hard to remove.  Had hard time finding "solid head" because most that I found had a hollow head.  Amazon has them if you need to order.  The solid brass head type says said good till 250 degrees temp wise.  Wire is stainless dowel wire, which is even harder to find than the solid head plugs.  But found the thickest stainless bicycle spoke I could find.

Have not had any problem probably 10k ago.  On BD,  one hole for testing back pressure with gauge and another for temp gauge probe in case (owner of truck) doesn't have a gauge.  

 

@015point9 look for safety wire. Easy to find and almost always stainless. Summit, Jegs have it and the pliers. I was worried brass would melt so i reused the lower hex head plug. The lube plug i replaced with steel and lots of anti-seize. Guess after a week or so I'll retorque them. 

Here is one rated to 400 degrees

 

https://www.grainger.com/mobile/product/1VFP6?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIjqShk52k6AIVnx-tBh1h9QFnEAQYBCABEgJgrPD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!216788409968!!!g!320006229034!&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjqShk52k6AIVnx-tBh1h9QFnEAQYBCABEgJgrPD_BwE

Edited March 18, 20205 yr by 015point9
Added info

Here is my wiring diagram for the Pacbrake using the Cummins ECM. I found the correct terminal on my 2nd try and they are cheap. $2.33 for 5 with free shipping had them in 2 days. Source and PN will be listed when i get everything together.

I am wiring it so the led lights when the brake is closed, not when the switch is turned on. 

 Pacbrake says there is a 3 second delay from closed throttle to brake activation. In my tests I'm seeing 1 to 1.5 seconds to relay closing, so i guess another 1-1.5 seconds for butterfly to close sounds close. Relay opens instantly with throttle, i noticed no delays.

 The only thing i don't like is with the switch on the brake will apply any time throttle is closed. I see that getting old in heavy stop & go traffic, drive thrus, etc so i may add a momentary switch along with the toggle switch but I'll add that later if i decide to. Just waiting on Amazon now.

My Banks had a 2 second or so delay. I did have to get up to 35 mph before it would engage. Maybe there is a way to get yours to do that. Or just switch it when in town.

Edited March 19, 20205 yr by dripley

14 hours ago, Gregturley said:

Here is my wiring diagram for the Pacbrake using the Cummins ECM. I found the correct terminal on my 2nd try and they are cheap. $2.33 for 5 with free shipping had them in 2 days. Source and PN will be listed when i get everything together.

I am wiring it so the led lights when the brake is closed, not when the switch is turned on. 

 Pacbrake says there is a 3 second delay from closed throttle to brake activation. In my tests I'm seeing 1 to 1.5 seconds to relay closing, so i guess another 1-1.5 seconds for butterfly to close sounds close. Relay opens instantly with throttle, i noticed no delays.

 The only thing i don't like is with the switch on the brake will apply any time throttle is closed. I see that getting old in heavy stop & go traffic, drive thrus, etc so i may add a momentary switch along with the toggle switch but I'll add that later if i decide to. Just waiting on Amazon now.

 

I wish someone could make a article about this. I've seen several people with older exhaust brakes and would be nice to build a simple controller for these older units using the ECM trigger like the old school Jacobs Brakes. 

 

@Mopar1973Man i can try to make an article when this is up and working with part numbers and sources.  Its easier than i thought it would be. Biggest challenge is finding a valve that works. Sent 5 valves back to Amazon because of not switching or leaking. Wasted a week trying to save $$$$. 

 There are more sophisticated set ups out there now that will work based on mph and such. I'm guessing ill have around $175 in this when done so i cant complain if i have to flip a switch when i get off the highway.

 

Edited March 19, 20205 yr by Gregturley
The plumbing and wiring for this will work with vacuum or air.

1 hour ago, Gregturley said:

@Mopar1973Man i can try to make an article when this is up and working with part numbers and sources. 

 

Please when you do get it done make the article that would be a huge help.

Got it up and working. Its not pretty, its temporary. Tired of waiting for parts so i threw it together with what i had laying around in the garage. This spring/summer I'm pulling the interior, fixing the dash and rewiring the whole truck so ill make it neat & pretty then. But for now here it is. Please don't laugh.

 I'll get started on the article tonight with all the info.

If it works that is the important thing. Like the orange vacuum line. 

@Royal Squire silicone vacuum line. Oil doesn't affect it like rubber

My Banks came with silicone tubing. It has held up just fine.

We had Crown Vics that came factory with silicone coolant hoses. Hoses would outlast the cars.

@Mopar1973Man just submitted the article. If any changes need to be made let me know.

Parts from Amazon finally showed up. Got it plumbed with push to connect and air brake line. Looks a little cleaner now.

PARTS, PRICES, SOURCES:

Exhaust housing w/vacuum cylinder: traded .40s&w ammo about $45 

 

Vacuum solenoid: Pacbrake # C11829: eBay $90.31

Pacbrake Superlube: #C18037: eBay $14.75

Push to connect 1/4" tube to 1/8" npt 10 pack: Amazon $14.68

 Quickun Air Pneumatic Mufflers, 1/8" Male Thread Sintered Bronze Exhaust Muffler Silencer (Pack of 3): Amazon $6.58

Tailonz Pneumatic 1/4 Inch od Push to Connect Fittings Pneumatic Fittings Kit 10 Spliters+10 Elbows+10 tee+10 Straight (40 pcs): Amazon $14.99

15' 1/4" Air brake line: Parker store $12.00

1/16" steel pipe plug: Parker store $1.25

Wire, relay, relay base, butt connectors, heat shrink, switch, led, sheet metal, screws, zip ties, 1/4" vacuum line, vacuum tee, I already had.

Total cost was around $190.00 and a few days to get everything freed up, plumbed and wired.

Edited March 22, 20205 yr by Gregturley

On 3/18/2020 at 4:43 PM, Gregturley said:

 The only thing i don't like is with the switch on the brake will apply any time throttle is closed. I see that getting old in heavy stop & go traffic, drive thrus, etc so i may add a momentary switch along with the toggle switch but I'll add that later if i decide to. Just waiting on Amazon now.

I'm trying to figure out how to turn it off, along with the torque converter lockup, automatically when the speed goes lower than 35mph like the BD TorkLoc does.

@IBMobile that would be a very nice feature to have. I was thinking about looking into a way to do it but it may be above my head and price range. Hopefully you can come up with something not too complicated.

Nice job looks great.  Where did you fine the used brake?  I need one badly (towing a 12k 5er) but dont feel like dropping $1500 on a new one.