Hi All,I've been getting occasional 0216 codes since January. Today it took a long time to start and then wouldn't accelerate at all. Idle sounded normal, but it just stumbled when I pressed the pedal. I pulled the codes and got 0253, 0251, 0216, 1688 and 1693. Looks like its time for a new injector pump, and a new fuel pump, and oh yes, gauges.I'm thinking a stock VP44, Air Dog 100 and fuel pressure, pryo and boost gauges. Anybody have any good or bad experiences with any particular vendors? Thanks

That sucks to hear!Good luck with the install, not sure who to recommend for vendors thou...

JKidd at Diesel Auto Power gets mentioned a lot, as does Blue Chip diesel.Ops

I have had good success with Vulcan Performance for gauges and accessories.

I've had great luck with Jkidd and TH racing.

Well I just finished installing mine!It's not hard if you have time and tools, and are mechanicaly inclined.I wish I has know about two cycle oil in my fuel before i found this site. Would have been much cheaper.Like they say---- been there ---- done that. I wish you well

I started shopping, I hate shopping. Will running the Air Dog 150 instead of the recommended 100 hurt anything? The price is the same and more is usually better.I want to increase the low end torque for towing 9000 lbs of boat. Is the VP44 a good place to start? I was looking at Diesel Auto Power's HOTROD VP44. Or is the money better spent on an Edge Juice?

Get the Airdog 150 so you have more flow. Get the Edge Juice. Mike got a stock pump and it has been living for 120k miles now. Run 2 stroke in yours and it should last just as long. He also is running somewhere around 380HP/830TQ which is plenty. If you get too much power you will find yourself constantly buying upgrades such as bigger turbos and everything. I think you can set limits on chips so it will stop fueling if certain things are met, this will help keep everything in check.

Well I just finished installing mine! It's not hard if you have time and tools, and are mechanicaly inclined. I wish I has know about two cycle oil in my fuel before i found this site. Would have been much cheaper. Like they say---- been there ---- done that. I wish you well

what ratio of 2 cycle oil you use?

1 oz. to 1 gallon.if you get the airdog you will lose your fuel heater..keep that in mind..i have always used fass products..lifetime warranty...the hpfp 100 from fass is all you need and you still get to use the stock fuel heater.i have bought vp's from the diesel store.com...one year unlimited mile warranty bosch certified and they install new computers on top of there pumps.

I started shopping, I hate shopping. Will running the Air Dog 150 instead of the recommended 100 hurt anything? The price is the same and more is usually better. I want to increase the low end torque for towing 9000 lbs of boat. Is the VP44 a good place to start? I was looking at Diesel Auto Power's HOTROD VP44. Or is the money better spent on an Edge Juice?

Are you looking at the full AD or the Raptor? The Raptor is internally regulated, so its not always pumping 150 GPH, or you would be at super high pressure. The 150 has the ablilty to pump 150 GPH, so it shouldn't allow for much of a psi drop until your demanding more than 150 GPH.. So you won't notice a difference in anything if your not demanding more than 100 GPH.

looking at the big picture...the AirDog 100 uses the factory fuel pickup(ie the tiny fuel lines). the AirDog 150 comes with DRAWSTRAW1 so you don't have a restriction at the tank(before the pump). you will need a few extra fitting, but the AirDog should come with enough hose to include the factory fuel canister(ie fuel filter and heater), mine did.i personally would not spend the $ on a hot rod VP44. you can make plenty of power upgrading injectors or chips.

1 oz. to 1 gallon.if you get the airdog you will lose your fuel heater..keep that in mind..i have always used fass products..lifetime warranty...the hpfp 100 from fass is all you need and you still get to use the stock fuel heater.i have bought vp's from the diesel store.com...one year unlimited mile warranty bosch certified and they install new computers on top of there pumps.

Damn that would get expensive,when i fuel i take on 100-125 gal. At 1 point i was adding a quart of vegatable oil per 100 gals. Didn't seems to hurt anything.

I just replaced mine two weeks ago. I would price it at a local Bosch dealer since they make sure that the diaphragm is updated and you do not get that 0216 code so easily next time. When I mentioned that I was going to mail order from PDR, the Bosch dealer offered "vendor price" at $1,375 which is a good price for Canada where we always pay more. Supposedly the diaphragm is thicker since 2003 and the electronics is updated since 2006 to be more heat tolerant. Seals are also improved for ULSD. One piece of advice - use the Blue Chip Diesel VP44 install instructions (Google it) since they recommend only removing 1,2 & 4 injector tubing as a bundle and leave 3,5,& 6 attached at the injectors and supports. Never loosen any blue colored plastic clamps as these are sensitive to the high pressure injection pulsations. Of course you have to remove all 6 connectors at the pump. You will easily be able to sneak that pump out and it saved 1 to 1.5 hours of knuckle busting to reach No 6 injector. Also, use a small dab of yellow paint on leading edge of key so it is easily visible with a mirror when installing to make sure keyway is lined up exactly before tightening the big nut. If key is at all loose in shaft keyway before installing, you can center punch the side to cause more friction in the keyway so it does not fall out during installation. Mine was tight out of the box.Those two back nuts on the mounting of the VP44 are hard to get at. I wrapped a turn of masking tape around the nut to make sure the socket was tight on the nut but still allow socket to be removed once threaded on the stud. You do not want to fish for those nuts if they drop once pump is initially installed with keyway lined up. This install is much easier than a VE44 since no dial gauge is required in the spill port to time it. (The ECU software corrects for timing variances by synchronizing to a missing tooth on cam or crank sensor indicating TDC). Here is the carnage: Diaphragm is on Left - note the missing piece that cracked then fell out.the timing piston is in the middle and the Right is the VP44 internal low pressure vane pump with the vanes removed.

Are you looking at the full AD or the Raptor? The Raptor is internally regulated, so its not always pumping 150 GPH, or you would be at super high pressure. The 150 has the ablilty to pump 150 GPH, so it shouldn't allow for much of a psi drop until your demanding more than 150 GPH.. So you won't notice a difference in anything if your not demanding more than 100 GPH.

The full AD. I hadn't seen the Raptor before. Would have saved some $$.

--- Update to the previous post...

looking at the big picture...the AirDog 100 uses the factory fuel pickup(ie the tiny fuel lines). the AirDog 150 comes with DRAWSTRAW1 so you don't have a restriction at the tank(before the pump). you will need a few extra fitting, but the AirDog should come with enough hose to include the factory fuel canister(ie fuel filter and heater), mine did.

i personally would not spend the $ on a hot rod VP44. you can make plenty of power upgrading injectors or chips.

I'd like to keep the factory fuel canister. Did you connect the AirDog output to the canister and then keep the original tube between the canister and VP44?

--- Update to the previous post...

One piece of advice - use the Blue Chip Diesel VP44 install instructions (Google it) since they recommend only removing 1,2 & 4 injector tubing as a bundle and leave 3,5,& 6 attached at the...

I actually ordered the VP44 from Blue Chip (they take Discover). And Chip tells a good story. I'll definitely use those instructions, they're clear and make sense.

I ordered the other stuff (AD150 and gauges) from Vulcan. Should have everything here by the weekend.

I'd like to keep the factory fuel canister. Did you connect the AirDog output to the canister and then keep the original tube between the canister and VP44?

no. the restriction would be the output of the canister. those stock lines are really small. you can order the big line kit from http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffip.htm or you can read what the pieces are from that page and order them individually.

The full AD. I hadn't seen the Raptor before. Would have saved some $$.

Look at the ADII 165, it has an adjustable pressure regulator. For the flow you need you can use the OE pickup and not worry about draw straws.

looking at the big picture...the AirDog 100 uses the factory fuel pickup(ie the tiny fuel lines). the AirDog 150 comes with DRAWSTRAW1 so you don't have a restriction at the tank(before the pump). you will need a few extra fitting, but the AirDog should come with enough hose to include the factory fuel canister(ie fuel filter and heater), mine did. i personally would not spend the $ on a hot rod VP44. you can make plenty of power upgrading injectors or chips.

thanks for info i also had the same thoughts about hot rod vp44

JKidd at Diesel Auto Power gets mentioned a lot, as does Blue Chip diesel. Ops

I've had two from DAP. First one died, second one was replaced under warranty. It did take Midwest Fuel Injection a little while to get me a new one rolling, but they did and it seems to work fine. I think Jacob is getting better at answering his phone too, or at least that's what I've been told!

I installed the AD150 and VP44 this weekend. Highly recommend Blue Chip Diesel's installation instructions (thanks balsip). Things went smoothly, just took a lot longer than I expected. I ran the AD150 output direct to the VP44. And used the stock return line. After starting, the original filter/water separator started leaking around the plug I put in the output hole. Kind of like the original lift pump was still working. The connector from the old pump was used to trigger the relay on the new pump, so the old pump shouldn't output anything, right?I started following the return line from the VP44 to make sure it wasn't feeding the original filter/water separator and found a tee. One side goes to the fuel tank, the other side goes into the rear of the engine head. Anybody know what this is?BTW - Truck running way better than when I bought it last Dec. First time I've seen the north side of 2800 rpm.

The injector return on a 24V (VP or CR) runs out the back of the head, so you need to "T" that into the VP return line somehow. A OE canister eliminator kit is an easy and clean way to do it. On the topic of the AD, what does the drain on your f/w sep look like? Plastic know or metal "T"?