Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
ok - don't laugh
How do you tell a battery really requires changing and won't hold a charge anymore.
To be honest - I don't know
Along with my stalling issue - my starting seems to be harder - and it seems like a battery. I added 2 stroke (for general reasons) and drove for like 20 miles to let the alternator charge her up. Got back ..... and turned engine off with lights still on. Saw the voltage needle drop pretty quick from 14V to around 10V.
The battery says 10/07 .......... no other indicators
If I need a battery - how to tell if 1 or 2 ? - and any recommendations on where what to buy ?
--- Update to the previous post...
Found this
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/001227.html
There is actually 3 different ways to test the battery.
One would be a voltmeter to check voltage. This requires a some what reliable voltmeter or multimeter. I think the full charge voltage is 12.7 to 12.9 volts. If the voltage is only 10 volts or so, that is an easy indication of a bad cell in the battery. That checks voltage but it really doesn't mean that the battery can handle a heavy load. It may handle electronics(Radio, GPS or VHF radio) but may fail to start an outboard or run a trolling motor for very long.
The second method is with the load tester. The load tester can be used even if it still installed in the boat or vehicle. It is as simple as connecting the clamps to the positive and negative posts. A spring loaded toggle switch is actuated for 5 seconds and a reading is displayed on the meter. It places a dummy load of close to 100 amps on the battery. You do this while watching the meter on the load tester. It is calibrated in voltage and if voltage readings scare you, it has a scale which reads BAD, WEAK or OK. 5 seconds is long enough time to be engaging the starter motor on an outboard or vehicle. If you boat motor takes longer or if it takes multiple tries to start the motor, that can be simulated with the tester also. Just actuate the switch on the tester to mimic what your starting procedure is on your boat. I like this test. It comes as close to what your battery actually needs to do, to produce the CURRENT(not voltage) to turn the starter.
The third way is by measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte. This is the most accurate way to test a battery, but most people don't want the extra work involved to accomplish accurate results.
You need a temperature compensating hydrometer to do this. They are available at some auto parts stores for $20-40.
Guessing then its not something I can do at home to well without some load tester