So I know I’ve had this problem before and it just kind of went away. But it seems to have come back again. As you can see in the video it revs up and idles too high while in park, also does it in drive if I’m stopped for an extended time in traffic now. Any ideas?

 

Btw I had my injectors Set at 310 bar

On 10/27/2020 at 8:30 PM, ColoradoColt said:

Btw I had my injectors Set at 310 bar

 

So you want about 19° to 20° at 2,000 RPM in a cruise state. Then about 14° in powered state. Being your injectors are stock pop then you going to need a little extra timing. 

 

13° (1,5k), 17° (2k), 21° (2.5k), 25° (3k), 26° (MAX) would be a good starting point. This will give good launching power and spool quick. Max Load Timing Offset set for 3°. Then the Low PSI timing Reduct for 5° Scaling for 50%. Light throttle timing 2° and set your light throttle load so you can hold 65 MPH on flat ground. (mine is 21%) might need more...

Edited October 29, 20204 yr by Mopar1973Man

Here’s a pic of my stock injectors at 336,000

Wiped out... lots of carbon.

What's wierd is every time I took my injectors out they always looked like they been in there forever, not sure what's normal.

 

I'm about to believe there is no normal. My re-man 50's are down to 4% load and up to 805rpm idle within 200 miles. Some would say to replace them already. Another member has 860ish idle but IIRC around 10% load on his new ones. Seems every truck is different. Part of me wants to pull mine and have them popped to 320. But then 320 is not advisable on anything less than 100's I guess. It runs good and has a noticeable improvement in power over what I took out so they're gonna stay in for now. Just can't believe mine settled in sooooo much in 1/2 a tank of fuel.      

My new ones are at about 11% and 750 ..The stock old ones I had were idling at about 900rpm with 0% load at idle When I replaced them.

.just pulled up to a light and it’s idling at about 680rpm. Even in park. Sounds like it’s missing....what did I do now ???

P0501 is the only code pulled from PCM.

i also have 2 ABS DTCs

It also sounds really rough while driving down road

Edited October 30, 20204 yr by ColoradoColt

So just got home. Pretty dark so I can’t see much. But fuel is everywhere! Checked all the lines and they seemed tight, before I check more tomorrow, does anyone have an idea on what could have happened or where it’s coming from? It’s wettest between 2-5 injectors. And the vp I believe the #4 line was wet but I was thinking it may have just dripped down it. Also I hear a high pitched whistle that sounds like a boost leak, but I did just find a crack in the radiator that’s whistling at me, so I guess I’m getting that tomorrow too. I did clean all my fuel lines today since I didn’t when I changed injectors. I also removed and cleaned the intake horn boots. So maybe I messed something up? 

Okay so I just got done with a 20mile drive to feed my horses. After tightening the #3 fuel line at the injectors, I haven’t had any issues with rough running, idling or leaking... Man it was spraying everywhere before though. Also I think I have a pretty big boost leak. Unless my  1/16 inch radiator crack whistles with boost? 

Injector lines can be a real pain to get to seal sometimes. I'm still fighting #1 for a weep. I've never had any spray or really dump fuel though. I guess the radiator leak could whistle since it is under pressure. Have you done a boost leak test? There's an article here somewhere.

36 minutes ago, dave110 said:Have you done a boost leak test? There's an article here somewhere.

I have not yet, but I will check out that article and do that. I was hoping it’s just the radiator since I had already ordered one from rockauto and my current one doesn't leak coolant, just whistles at me when I turn the truck off out of the crack. I had the intake horn off and changed gaskets so it could also be that I didn’t torque it down correctly. The old ones seemed more like cardboard, and the new gasket was more like aluminum coated or something, much thicker. So is it possible I have to torque a little more then spec? I was going up a small grade when it sounded like a blew a seal from something and the whistle started.

Finally found it

 

 

Looks like I should have done a better job putting it back together after the injectors! 
 

Btw that’s not soapy water. That’s fuel

Edited November 2, 20204 yr by ColoradoColt

A bit off topic, but do you not use any of the factory clamps on the fuel lines?

 

Glad you found your problem though.

Edited November 2, 20204 yr by dripley

1 hour ago, dripley said:

A bit off topic, but do you not use any of the factory clamps on the fuel lines?

 

Glad you found your problem though.

I do not, I took them off when I did the injectors. I think I left one on each to help keep them together. Was that a bad idea?

I figured they were important to help hold the lines steady with all high pressure pulsese they are exposed to. I lost my #5 injector about 3 years ago. Failed right near the head. There us a clamp there on 5 and 6 and mine was missing. Always thought that had something to do with it. May e someone here knows more about them than me.

 Dont loose the clamps, they aint cheap. I paid $8 for each piece of the clamp l was missing from Cummins.

Injector lines need all factory clamps fitted. Pressure pulses breaks the tubing otherwise 

Just put them all back on! Thanks

Injection lines come out in groups of 3. 

 

Front batch which is 1, 2, and 4. Then the rear set is 3, 5, and 6. No need to even mess with the line clamps. 

 

 

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Injection lines come out in groups of 3. 

 

Front batch which is 1, 2, and 4. Then the rear set is 3, 5, and 6. No need to even mess with the line clamps. 

 

I think I only removed #1 from one of the sets because I couldn’t get my wrench to fit at the injection pump for number 2  without removing 1 or 4. Which is odd because the second time around I got them all off without removing any separately. Must have not tried hard enough the first time!