Well the Ram just ate another ECM. Must be high in protein.

The first ECM went with around 3500 miles from new in 2000 when I bought it. The dealer replaced it & never said what happened. 

The second ECM went wild & through just about every code you could list. I think this was in 2008. Not repairable at the time.

The 3rd ECM got replaced with a used one from a 98.5. I got the used ECM & PCM together from a guy in Montana. They would not work in my truck together, So I tried just his ECM & my PCM & the marriage was formed. That work fine up to about 2 years ago. Then the WTS light, fuel pump & grids started doing their thing. Then recently doing the WOT at start up & making me wait for 10 mins. before it got it's head together. So now that one is at the ECM Dr. getting repaired. I hope this is the last time around. Just can't seem to get this new engine broke in at this rate.

Better days ahead.....I hope

I got the ECM back & installed. Had to wait for it to warm up outside a bit. Does what it's meant to do.

One thing I never knew, is that the grid heater solenoids take turns when you first start up. I put led's on my grids (1 on each solenoid) wired independently because I don't have a WTS light. I have a gas cluster. Pretty cool to see actually.

Runs extremely strong. How many of you guys can turn your Quad to full & run it? I can't get past 5 without hazing the tires at 70 mph! This is the first time I went to 5. Did this yesterday & got a rude surprise. I engage my OD first & then lock the converter. When I lock up the converter, you better be paying attention if you have your foot into it. Fun truck for sure. Looks like the only way to get the quad to full will be on a dyno. 

13 hours ago, jag said:

How many of you guys can turn your Quad to full & run it?

 

I can. I can use every bit of power. I've got a bit of haze till the turbo spools a bit 1 to 2 seconds and then is clean burning the full way to 100+ MPH. My design is with mine set with 100% wire tap and the way my fuel is mapped out. Right now I have traction problems with just level 2 (stock fuel with timing)  or level 3 (CANBus and timing). I can pull the tires loose just standing on it with winter conditions like either wet pavement or icy. Small trick I did is between 5 to 15 PSI I'm just flat stock power (100%) this was put there for normal driving without having to change levels constantly...  Now above 15 PSI my wire tap and CANBus ramp up together making for some serious pulling power my 245's just don't have the hold power but 245's gives my that great final ratio of 3.69:1 so acceleration is much faster now. I would have to find a wider 30" tire to keep this thing planted and add traction bars. More or less just a haze at the get go and cleans right up and haul down the road. 

 

Even my trip to Arizona I ran my tow tune wide open the whole way still with 17,300 pounds of truck and trailer still did 14.3 MPG. No problem pulling grades and EGT's never past 1,000 to 1,100°F with the cruise set for 65 MPH pulling 7% grade in Nevada. Now if I had my old 235's on the EGT's would of been through the roof. Proper ratio to the ground does reduce EGT's quite a bit. 

 

Currently 429k miles...

 

Edited February 22, 20214 yr by Mopar1973Man

As for used ECM/PCM I went through an online salvage yard (can't remember which one). Searched the page until I found a pickup identical to mine (same year, eng, tranny, everything) and bought both ECM and PCM. I figured if they didn't work I could get them re-flashed.

Long story short I hooked both computers up and they worked perfect. I'm now running with those two and keep the OEM units as my backup. I think the trick is to find an absolutely identical match to your rig. 

2 hours ago, MikeH said:

Searched the page until I found a pickup identical to mine (same year, eng, tranny, everything) and bought both ECM and PCM.

What did you spend if not a secret

3 hours ago, MikeH said:

I think the trick is to find an absolutely identical match to your rig. 

 

Yes it is... I can say there is 50+ different versions of ECM software with different version software for options. (Manual vs Auto), (Federal, California, and Canada emissions), etc.

4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

What did you spend if not a secret

Not cheap but worth it to me. I believe it was around $1500 bucks for both. You can get a refurbished pair for close to the same but they've had some major invasive surgery done to them. Mine came from a fully functioning rig with 50K fewer miles on it.

My wife and I travel a lot and occasionally head down to Mexico. Having both computers tucked under the back seat is just good insurance. 

429k miles still going on the ECM but PCM burned up when my alternator shorted out the blue field wire. I had to replace it for 750 for Auto Computer Specialist. 

I am the reverse of that. OE PCM but the oe ECM failed at 217k and change. I was able to procure a new back then so hopefully this one will out last me.

On 2/23/2021 at 6:12 PM, MikeH said:

Not cheap but worth it to me. I believe it was around $1500 bucks for both. You can get a refurbished pair for close to the same but they've had some major invasive surgery done to them. Mine came from a fully functioning rig with 50K fewer miles on it.

My wife and I travel a lot and occasionally head down to Mexico. Having both computers tucked under the back seat is just good insurance. 

I have a spare under the seat of my truck as well, but it has the wrong programming. Smarty can get you the correct software to upload. PCM is original, but my ECM gave up the ghost around 93k.

Lost my OEM PCM to failed alternator that shorted out the blue lead and burn holes in the PCM circuit board. 

 

ECM is still OEM and never had one problem. W-T ground mod done and most likely never have any issues.

On 3/4/2021 at 8:42 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Lost my OEM PCM to failed alternator that shorted out the blue lead and burn holes in the PCM circuit board. 

 Will the fuse in the blue wire you have installed since then prevent this from happening?

I've not had another alternator failure myself but I know of at least two members here that installed the fuse and it did prevent the PCM damage. It does work. Like @IBMobilewill say 7.5 amp fuse, and I'm using a 5 amp fuse either way it will not draw a full 20 amps to try and blow the PCM fuse. Which the circuit board inside will not handle that much current.

Well just as Murphy would have it, this ECM went back to no fuel pump, grid heaters & so on. I knew this was not going to last. When I installed it, I got no codes or anything that would signal a new ECM being installed. This one would not even throw a code if something was wrong. I tried by disconnecting the MAP sensor & nothing. All the other ones threw some kind of code when I keyed on the first time.

The ECM I ordered from ACS arrived on Friday. Installed it last night. Key on & bang, there was the check engine light. First time I seen it work with the gas cluster. Fuel pump started right away, along with the grids. Key off & plugged in the OBDLink & there were 9 codes, 336, 237, 122, 118, 113, 1698, 1698, 380, & 382. Cleared codes, key off - key on, check for codes & all clear. This will be the last one, because I have threatened it to P pumped next time.    

ACS.pdf

Hopefully this ecm lasts, if you did WT mod and have your ac noise in check then it should last a long time.

AC was checked & came in as .017. WT was done. Seems to run a little different, smoother & idles a bit on the high side. I will watch like a hawk for anything out of the ordinary.  

7 hours ago, jag said:

Seems to run a little different, smoother & idles a bit on the high side.

 

If you have a live data tool plugged in and watching the engine load number and the engine RPM.

 

NORMAL - you should have a engine load above 0% and engine RPM should hover close to 800 RPM (+/- 10). Example my truck idles at 7% dancing around at 795 to 805 RPM.

 

FAILED INJECTORS - You engine load will be at zero. The engine is trying to defuel as much as it can but the injectors are popping so early now that engine RPM is rising. Anything greater than 820 RPM. Like a truck I looked at in Ontario, OR the RPM is ~850 RPM and the engine load is 0% never moves whiles idling.