Does anyone have good knowledge of what the turbo angles should be?  As best as I could estimate on my truck with the current turbo installed (due to rust, certain components will be destroyed upon removal - and I don't have a spare vehicle right now) it seems:

1. the exhaust manifold mounting flange is 48 degrees (measured from horizontal).  EDIT:  May be closer to 50 degrees based on my truck, after removing turbo for better measurement.
2. The compressor outlet is "around" 20 degrees from horizontal.  EDIT:  I'd say I would up more around 25 degrees or a little steeper to keep everything very well aligned and no stress on the rubber boot.

 

I would like to change the turbo back this weekend, and really want to get my turbo clocked correctly this evening so I have just one less thing to worry about after taking a Sawzall/smoke wrench to certain parts of my truck.  I have failed so far at getting that compressor snap ring back in, so once it gets back in I don't want to have to make corrections!

Any help appreciated!  I don't have the right tool to measure that compressor discharge flange angle.  I removed the boot/elbow one evening this week to measure the angle, but then discovered I haven't the right tool to do so.  @dripley this may interest you once I get the data.  Hopefully we can further refine the path blazed by @Blueox01 so BenzeForce can just offer these turbos already setup for our application.

I got an fte resonator that made the truck much nicer to ride on hwy.

On 3/7/2021 at 12:19 AM, Threadzy said:

low psi 5

Low PSI, or Light Load (cruise)?

On 3/7/2021 at 4:34 AM, NIsaacs said:

it is huge but fit no problem. I really like it.

That's what she said!

Most likely Low PSI being the light load cruise is a degree number. Then light load cruise is based on engine load for trigger. 

This morning I made the drive to work with the new setup.  I wasn't to 120* when I the interstate onramp, but was shortly thereafter.  When I got to where I work it's river bottom ground so very flat.  I was on Level 2, did a few big throttle acceleration runs from a couple stop signs, and just by increasing the Low PSI Timing Reduction from 3.5 to 5 degrees made a huge difference!  Whether at lunch or after work I'll set her to Level 3 and see what happens.

Notes:

1. EGTs dropped about 100F.  I normally would see upper 700's and even 8XX degrees just cruising on the interstate slow rollers, and other than when I gave her the business, I don't think it ever cracked 700F.  Nice to hear the turbo for once, and it is SO QUIET in the cab now!  Of course it was quieter before my old tailpipe fell off, too, but not THIS quiet!  It's a straight-through muffler, perforated.
2. I don't believe I have ever hit 25 PSI (MAP/Quadzilla, not standalone gauge yet) unless pulling a trailer up a hill.  Did it at least once this morning during acceleration run.
3. I saw 0 PSI boost while at low load a few times, the old 9cm^2 HY35 seemed to always be 1-2 pounds unless sitting still.  This HE351W is 12cm^2.
4. I wish I had before and after of drive pressures.

 

Next order of business is the 8 x .0085 injectors!  And/or the wastegate actuator install - wired shut right now.

2 hours ago, LorenS said:

Low PSI, or Light Load (cruise)?

That's what she said!

Low psi timing reduction. 

I dropped my 1500 base timing to 15, maxed the Low PSI Timing Reduction, and she runs even better!

Returning from lunch I stopped on a flat road and did a "roll into the throttle" acceleration run (as opposed to just stomping pedal to floor).  I saw not even a whisp of smoke, so when I got back to work I sat in the truck a minute and upped the CANbus fueling some - instead of staying a steady 15% after 7 PSI I kept adding 2% per PSI up to 23%.  I'll drive home with that and see what I think.

The thing is, with a 0.69 overdrive the engine is only around 1200 RPM at 45 MPH which is a normal speed around here.  3rd gear 55 MPH is ~2,000 RPM.

11 minutes ago, LorenS said:

The thing is, with a 0.69 overdrive the engine is only around 1200 RPM at 45 MPH which is a normal speed around here.  3rd gear 55 MPH is ~2,000 RPM.

Anything below 55mph especially in town driving. I keep OD off. EGT’s and engine load is much lower. 45mph EGT’s  float around 400-500 degrees. Plus the exhaust break is more efficient. The truck will also buck in overdrive at those slower speeds. 

That is due to the cruise timing is allowed after you engine load dropped below your set engine load percentage. Then your RPM drops below a runnable range and it starts to buck. I would like to call out @Quadzilla Power and see if there is a way of make lower RPM range setting so you can force the cruise timing to shut down below that set RPM. Yeah I got the same problem...

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

That is due to the cruise timing is allowed after you engine load dropped below your set engine load percentage. Then your RPM drops below a runnable range and it starts to buck. I would like to call out @Quadzilla Power and see if there is a way of make lower RPM range setting so you can force the cruise timing to shut down below that set RPM. Yeah I got the same problem...

That would be another nice feature.  

Would increasing the Max Load Timing Offset help with that?

29 minutes ago, LorenS said:

Would increasing the Max Load Timing Offset help with that?

No. Because that is above the cruise %. So if cruise timing is 0 to 20% then 21% and up to 100% would now run on load based retarding down 0 to 3° this ramps back up you max timing for that RPM.

@Mopar1973Man @Me78569 I was rereading the Adrenaline tuning guide and was reminded of the "Secret" programming for setting all Timing parameters to 0 and running "Stock Plus" timing.  I want to give this a try just to say I did and satisfy my curiosity.  What is a good starting point for this?  Should it look like the below?  Is it far too conservative?
 

1500  2*

2000  4*

2500 5*

3000 6*

Max 6*

 

Does CANbus fueling still work with this setup?

 

Stock head bolts, factory reman injectors, new turbo is HE351W.

All the other timing settings must be set for ZERO on the main page then you can adjust the max timing to the plus amount over stock. Ive never really tried it. I should though...

 

As for Canbus it remains the same.

Go for it, I never used it beyond testing.

On 3/8/2021 at 5:50 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

That is due to the cruise timing is allowed after you engine load dropped below your set engine load percentage. Then your RPM drops below a runnable range and it starts to buck. I would like to call out @Quadzilla Power and see if there is a way of make lower RPM range setting so you can force the cruise timing to shut down below that set RPM. Yeah I got the same problem...

 

@Mopar1973Man, if i remember correctly form the quad v2 r&d thread, they couldnt go below 1500 because of the stock ECU. It would get very unhappy if memory serves. @Me78569 do you recall why 1500 was the lowest for timing?

 

Never mind, I just reread what you wrote, 8a and not enough coffee yet.

 

around like 1200 rpm, is that the factory ecm taking over? because I see a big jump in timing when that rpm and below is crossed..

15 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

@Mopar1973Man, if i remember correctly form the quad v2 r&d thread, they couldnt go below 1500 because of the stock ECU. It would get very unhappy if memory serves.

 

Now with what I know I can just barely get down as low as 1,200 RPM but still bucking. Its the cruise timing kicking back in and raising my timing another +4° on top of the 13° on the 1,500 RPM band giving about 16° rolling along 30 MPH in 4th gear. This is Council, ID speed limit through town I've either got to drop another gear go through twon at nearly 2,400 RPM up shift up and drop 1,300 RPM and buck the entire way through. I think the cutoff of the Quad is 1,100 RPM then if flip back to ECM control. I would love to see a cruise timing cancel point of lower RPM's s to stop the bucking problem. @Quadzilla Power

at super low RPMS I noticed "anti-stall" functions come into play and I "BELIEVE" that the ecm starts sending high priority messages to the vp, which in turn directly fight with the quad. 

 

Also sub 1200 sub rpm timing is best left to the ecm to control, so little driving time is spent that low in RPMS and the conditions are ripe for head gasket isssues if someone adds too much timing and creates a high load situtation.

Is it possible for the Quadzilla to cancel the light load advanced at say 1,500 rpm and below? Meaning can it be done with the ECM and Quad not fighting each other? Updated software? 

the ecm does a terrible job in the 1200-1500 rpm area for advancing timing for good MPG, load is too high at 55-65 mph for the stock timing to be high enough.     flip to lvl0 and watch what timing does.  

 

 

under 1200 rpm there is no light timing advance as well.

 

 

mor ethoughts as well,  it is not timing causing the bucking.  It is a fight between the ecm and the quad with the fueling messages.  The ecm starts sending high prorirt fueling messages at super low rpms when it thinks that the engine is at risk of stalling.  

 

the ecm sends a bump in fueling that gets mixed in with the quad's reduced fueling causing the bucking.

1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

the ecm does a terrible job in the 1200-1500 rpm area for advancing timing for good MPG, load is too high at 55-65 mph for the stock timing to be high enough.     flip to lvl0 and watch what timing does.  

 

 

under 1200 rpm there is no light timing advance as well.

 

 

mor ethoughts as well,  it is not timing causing the bucking.  It is a fight between the ecm and the quad with the fueling messages.  The ecm starts sending high prorirt fueling messages at super low rpms when it thinks that the engine is at risk of stalling.  

 

the ecm sends a bump in fueling that gets mixed in with the quad's reduced fueling causing the bucking.

So in laymans  terms it’s not possible for them to coexist smoothly below 1500?