Was looking to replace the intermediate steering shaft on my '02 Ram 2500. All the adds state that their shafts fit 4WD but my rig is 2WD.
Anyone know for sure if they're the same. I'll list a Dorman shaft I found on 1A Auto: DORMAN Lower Intermediate Steering Shaft: 425-264.

I'm aware I can go to a Borgeson but am going to stick with a stock shaft. 

I'd say if you have a computer handy to see if a search through the parts list on this site shows a difference between 2WD vs. 4WD. I'd help right now, but it's hard for me to read it on my phone, and it's a big file to download!

Edited March 12, 20214 yr by LorenS

They are different.

2WD part# 55351114AE

 

4WD part #55351113AE 

IBMobile....thanks, that's what I was looking for. I'm going to have to call one of these online places as they just don't seem to list a shaft for 2WD rigs.

Thanks again.

Some times people miss the fact we have all the part books here on the site. Page opened to the exact part number...

 

https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2002Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=323

 

 

 

I wonder if it's just a matter of taking a 4WD version and chopping off a couple inches. Would be a different part number, but basically the same thing. Certainly worth asking the suppliers!

Mopar1973Man "people miss the fact we have all the part books here" . Missed it completely...thanks for the reminder.

Anyone have any tips/tricks to replacing this shaft? Never done one but it looks pretty straightforward. Just purchased the Rock Solid steering column bushing upgrade: http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/. Figured while I had the steering shaft off why not fix that issue too. 

My truck doesn't really "wander" all that much but it annoys the crap out of me. With new tires, shocks, front bearing/hub assembly, tie rod ends and upper/lower ball joints you would think the damn thing would track straight down the road. If the steering shaft and bushing don't fix it we're off to Red Head for a rebuild on the box. 

Talk to @Blue-Top Steering he'll set you up.

I have a Blue Top on the way right now. My next weekend schedule is set right now.

Well, got the intermediate steering column out and installed the new column bushing from http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/. The OEM bearing that was pulled to install the new bushing was shot so this should help right off the bat. Good news though, I don't need a new intermediate shaft. "U" Joints on both ends were tight and the thing had no play anywhere.

It's going back in tomorrow and I'll post the results.

BTW, doing this job with the column still in the truck was a PITA. You're constantly working around the brake master cylinder and the rest of the Anti-Lock plumbing and I could only get my left hand down there to work (I'm right handed!). Would have been much easier to pull the whole column out of the cab and do the repair on the bench. Anyway, it's done!

18 minutes ago, MikeH said:

BTW, doing this job with the column still in the truck was a PITA.

I did mine when I had the head off, my bearing wasn't bad but I figured why not. Not saying taking head of is the way to do it did my tappet cover at same time too, two for one 

I was actually surprised you needed the shaft, can't say I've heard of too many changing them. 

20 hours ago, dripley said:

I have a Blue Top on the way right now. My next weekend schedule is set right now.

I put in a RedHead steering gear just to be contrary and that way I can keep track of how long its holds up compared to Blue Top. It might stay good for a long time.... I'll be reporting on that when I'm hundred an eight hopefully.

 

You don't have to pay tax on your Social security after 100 yrs old so I hope I make it.

Edited March 15, 20214 yr by JAG1

Got everything back together today and went out for a test drive. I'd say the new bushing from http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/ cleaned up 80% or more of my problem. The OEM column bearing was trashed. I also took up a quarter turn on the sector shaft nut (be careful here... see dodge service bulletins tsb 19-10-97) which tightened up some of the steering slop.

Overall the rig drives much better and just has a tighter feel. Well worth the ~$60 bucks from Dave at RockSolid.

Next on my bucket list is sway bar end links and bushings front and rear!

12 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I put in a RedHead steering gear just to be contrary and that way I can keep track of how long its holds up compared to Blue Top. It might stay good for a long time.... I'll be reporting on that when I'm hundred an eight hopefully.

 

You don't have to pay tax on your Social security after 100 yrs old so I hope I make it.

Well maybe we can see how they compare then. Ryan had many good reviews and some bad like everyone does. Dont know how you sort all of that out sometimes. Just make your and live with it I guess. Could have got a life time warranty Dorman for a lot less money but I dont want to have to do this 2 or 3 times to get it right. We shall see. But I did get 525k out of the OE so I think I am ahead of the game no matter how it goes.

 

NC does not tax SS benefits. And If I am reading everything right withdrawals from my 401k is not countable income towards whether or not you pay taxes on your SS income. Hope I am seeing that right. The 401k withdrawals are taxable themselves though. Thought democrats just might find a way to tax it all before I turn 100. Of course by then they will have to dig me up!!! Hell they just might do it.

1 hour ago, MikeH said:

Got everything back together today and went out for a test drive. I'd say the new bushing from http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/ cleaned up 80% or more of my problem. The OEM column bearing was trashed. I also took up a quarter turn on the sector shaft nut (be careful here... see dodge service bulletins tsb 19-10-97) which tightened up some of the steering slop.

Overall the rig drives much better and just has a tighter feel. Well worth the ~$60 bucks from Dave at RockSolid.

Next on my bucket list is sway bar end links and bushings front and rear!

Glad you got it all together. I have never had any reason to think my bearing is bad. Not sound out of it ever. So I hope I dont need to do that one. Only time will tell. Got some play but my money is on the gear and a track bar showing signs of wear. Tie rod end getting some play in it.

Edited March 16, 20214 yr by dripley

Nice State Dripley not to tax SS. The Redhead steering gear is doing well after a couple months. It is their standard stock replacement with some impressive upgrades over the parts store units that cost so much less. There's no leaks so far and steers very well. My OE only went around 230,000 miles.

 

I will have to check my steering shaft for side to side play like you guys.

Just going to bump this thread open again.

Still not happy with the steering wander especially at hwy speeds after putting a couple hundred miles on it. It just annoys the crap out of me that the rig won't track straight down the road. Anyway, I had the wife turn the steering (engine running) while I crawled underneath to see what wasn't behaving properly. Everything looked tight with no wobble, play or looseness that I could detect. Just wondering if I'm even going to see enough play in something like the pitman arm or idler arm etc to even know if they're worn slightly. The rig doesn't wander badly going down the road but it's there.

I don't want to start throwing more money and parts at it and I'll replace the gearbox if that's what it takes. Just want to eliminate everything else before the box comes out. Might have posted this before but so far we've got Bearing/hub assembly, upper/lower ball joints, tie rod ends, intermediate steering shaft upgrade, new shocks, tires and alignment.

Any thoughts?

A little more caster maybe? Seems to help the 4 wd's. I will maxing mine out in the next couple weeks but it is a 4wd.

Like on my 2006 Dodge I need to remove the 2 inch leveling kit. This will bring back the caster for the tracking. As you use leveling kits you change 2 things.  First thing you change as you push the axle downward is the caster. You make it more neutral which causes the wondering lack of caster. The second problem since I've got a "fixed length" 3rd gen track bar is now the thrust angle is wrong. As you push the axle downwards with the leveling kit the track bar is a fixed length so now the thrust angle is wrong pulled towards the driver side. (Enhanced tire wear)This all applies to the 2nd gen bodies the same way. If you planning on using leveling kits you need to consider both angles. You would need adjustable track bar to reset the thrust angle. Then you would need adjustable lower control arms to recover the caster you lost. Where the 2006 Dodge has over sized tires, lift kit and other mods which all causing drivability issues. 

 

This is why I've never had a single issue with my 2002 Dodge with steering I've never added leveling kits, oversized tires or anything to mess up the geometry of the front axle. This why after 431k miles and counting ball joint last a super long time 250k plus, tie rod ends lasted 350k plus, etc. All my geometry is correct and never had these kind of problems on my 2002. 

39 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

This is why I've never had a single issue with my 2002 Dodge with steering I've never added leveling kits, oversized tires or anything to mess up the geometry of the front axle. This why after 431k miles and counting ball joint last a super long time 250k plus, tie rod ends lasted 350k plus, etc. All my geometry is correct and never had these kind of problems on my 2002. 

Mine's stock too with 265/75r16 tires which are what came with the rig. I'm pretty sure this is a wear issue as it has kind of creeped up on me over the years. Also, forgot to mention bushings and end links on front/rear sway bar. I know I'm getting down to replacing the steering gearbox but I've read of several guys going that route only to comment 'Well, that didn't fix it". 

I'm beginning to wander if my camper and gear are part of the problem. Caravan Camper steel shells are ~700lbs. I finished the inside with pine and the vehicle empty weight is 8300lbs per the scale at the dump. Almost like a small slide-in camper. Loaded with food, water & supplies etc it just touches the rear helper springs. I also moved both batteries to the bed inside the camper and added two more for reserve power. Could that make the front end a little goosey...enough to cause my issue? Thinking out loud here but I'm running out of solutions.

I'll live with it if I have to but it can get annoying on a long trip. 

What is the axle weights? Front vs rear axle? Typically on average its 60% weight on the front axle and about 40% weight on the rear axle. 

 

For example I know the weights of my 2002 Dodge by heart. 

Front is 4,440 pounds (60.8% = 4,440 / 7,300)

Rear is 2,860 pounds (39.1% = 2,860 / 7,300)

Total weight 7,300 pounds. 

 

Even knowing this I can get the tire pressure correct... My tires are Hankook ATm 245/75 R16 (3,042 pound capacity at 80 PSI)

 

(4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58.3 PSI in the front (60 PSI Front)

(2,860 / 2) = 1,430 / 3,042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 PSI in the rear (40 PSI Rear)

 

Might check the axle weights like this and see how much weight is on the rear axle vs thew front axle. 

 

Edited July 5, 20213 yr by Mopar1973Man

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

What is the axle weights? Front vs rear axle? Typically on average its 60% weight on the front axle and about 40% weight on the rear axle. 

 

For example I know the weights of my 2002 Dodge by heart. 

Front is 4,440 pounds (60.8% = 4,440 / 7,300)

Rear is 2,860 pounds (39.1% = 2,860 / 7,300)

Total weight 7,300 pounds. 

 

Even knowing this I can get the tire pressure correct... My tires are Hankook ATm 245/75 R16 (3,042 pound capacity at 80 PSI)

 

(4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58.3 PSI in the front (60 PSI Front)

(2,860 / 2) = 1,430 / 3,042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 PSI in the rear (40 PSI Rear)

 

Might check the axle weights like this and see how much weight is on the rear axle vs thew front axle. 

 

" What is the axle weights? Front vs rear axle?"

   I don't know but you may be on to something. If I had to guess I'd say I'm dead backwards with more of the weight being on the rear axle. As I mentioned the vehicle total weight is 8300 (empty) with ALL the extra weight being in the bed. Loaded for bear it could be close to 10k lbs GVW. As a matter of fact the truck drives just like you had an over loaded trailer attached...front end barely touching the road and squirrely as hell.

   Going to find a local scale and get some weights. I'll then adjust tire pressure and we'll take it from there. I'll be back!