Ok for those following my love of my truck.lmaoOk I put the new used wire harness on today and, nothing, nada, still has erratic miss. Reminder that it runs perfect when eng. is cold, so as the eng. heats up the miss starts.Here is the list of new parts that apply to fuel.New vulcan draw strawNew DDP 50 HP injectorsNew filters Airdog 100 17 psi at idle WOT 15 psi New Blue Chip vp44New over flow valvueBlew out return line from vp back to tankIt will have new crossover tubes in the morning with new o rings, then the inj. lines will be the only thing left stock.When you crack lines you cant tell anythingThis weekend I will pressure up the cylinders and see if I have burnt valvues. I cant find compression test gauge. So I guess this will at least tell me if I am losing air either intake or exhaust.It passed the blow by test with only 4 11/16 rise from eng. off to 2800 rpmIf you can come up with anything please post.Just dont ask what else has been replaced, it's all new now but the ait.

I think if that was me, I would've lost it already and drove the truck to Dodge headquarters and torched it on their front lawn!

I wanted to push it off one of Mikes hills and he said they frown on those kinda things. Can you amagine video that. Then I thought I would hide some c-4 in it somewhere and charge 50.00 a shot and the winner could keep the truck. But that might not work out either.I will make a list one day of all the new parts it's goten out of hand, but it will make for a good parts truck if nothing else.

JL... I don't know what to say anymore... Its like the problem won't die... I know the shopping list is longer that the truck now... I know you got a comma in the total price invested. All I can say is yank the engine out place it on a stand in the corner of the shop and sell the parts... Find another engine with the electronics and install in your truck... What ever you decide to get as a replacement you better test drive first...

You coulda p-pumped it by now Problem would have been solved. Anyhow Mike told me a scratch on the connector tube tips will do that and I see those are scheduled for today so maybe that will fix it.

Are you sure those DDP injectors are set to the same pop pressure?

Well crossover tubes didnt do anything, fuel system is new from drawstraw to head, speaking of head I will be pulling rockers and inspect all I can from there. Got to be lossing compression or something, only problem is it dont miss when cold so leak down test may not so anything. Compression test is what I need but cant find one anywhere.

Well crossover tubes didnt do anything, fuel system is new from drawstraw to head, speaking of head I will be pulling rockers and inspect all I can from there. Got to be lossing compression or something, only problem is it dont miss when cold so leak down test may not so anything. Compression test is what I need but cant find one anywhere.

You not like that snap on I linked for you at least a couple times now? Here is another. Mityvac kit for all kinds of engines. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-3792-mityvac-mv5535.aspx another? http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/STR-TU-15-26-p-STR0201.html

Sorry I must have missed them, I like the first one.Well instead of pulling the rockers and all I thought I would adjust valvues again, so I set intake at 8 and ex at 18 and made it miss a little more. Everybody remember it runs perfect when cold, so it is telling us something is fishey.So I have something going on there, in the morning I am going to set in at 12 and ex at 22 and see what happen's.

So going to 8/18 made it miss more, what was it at before?

JL I have been waiting for the answer like the rest of the guys. I know it is all to late when you have bought a near, complite new engine. I took my Van to Cummins service centre he in Australia, were they hooked up a Laptop and we drove around the place watching all the funtions. If you have a friendly Cummins centre like here, they did that for nix for me.

So going to 8/18 made it miss more, what was it at before?

I set it at 8 and 18 about a year ago, I found a few that where a little loose. And set them the same again. I dont know if it is possible they could be over lapping, in other words is exhaust opening to soon and visa versa

I set it at 8 and 18 about a year ago, I found a few that where a little loose. And set them the same again. I dont know if it is possible they could be over lapping, in other words is exhaust opening to soon and visa versa

JL...its possiable you could have a crack in A "INJECTOR BORE" say..between the bore and exhaust or intake valve....this would explain why it only does it when warm...the crack only expands when hot..I only had this happen once on a NTC cummins years ago I KNOW THIS IS NOT A COMMON PROBLEM YOU HERE OF ON THE FORUMS..BUT THEN AGAIN ..THERE IS NOTHING COMMON ABOUT WHAT YOUR GOING THROUGH WITH YOUR TRUCK.... Richie

I had a Merkur 2.3L gas turbo motor do that, and it was a crack in the steel head, between the plug and exh. valve seat. cold, it'd run fine. once it warmed up, it'd miss and stumble like mad.

JL...its possiable you could have a crack in A "INJECTOR BORE" say..between the bore and exhaust or intake valve....this would explain why it only does it when warm...the crack only expands when hot..I only had this happen once on a NTC cummins years ago I KNOW THIS IS NOT A COMMON PROBLEM YOU HERE OF ON THE FORUMS..BUT THEN AGAIN ..THERE IS NOTHING COMMON ABOUT WHAT YOUR GOING THROUGH WITH YOUR TRUCK.... Richie

10-4 on the uncommon problem. When I changed the inj. out they where real sooty and I kept blaming it on the timing. Well got all that lined out and nothing to point the finger to now. The entire exterior of the eng. is brand new, nothing left but the inside of the eng. The only thing not replaced is the map, ait, and the temp sensor, the alt, starter, water pump everything has been replaced. I set the gap on valvues today to 12/22 hopeing to change something and no change. From what your saying even compression test will show normal on a cold eng., right? Ok what if I restrict the flow of the return will that start a over fueling if there is a crack between the valvues and return? I dont mean shut it off but just slow it down. How did you find the crack in the head your referring to? Thanks Joe

10-4 on the uncommon problem. When I changed the inj. out they where real sooty and I kept blaming it on the timing. Well got all that lined out and nothing to point the finger to now. The entire exterior of the eng. is brand new, nothing left but the inside of the eng. The only thing not replaced is the map, ait, and the temp sensor, the alt, starter, water pump everything has been replaced.

I set the gap on valvues today to 12/22 hopeing to change something and no change.

From what your saying even compression test will show normal on a cold eng., right?

Ok what if I restrict the flow of the return will that start a over fueling if there is a crack between the valvues and return? I dont mean shut it off but just slow it down.

How did you find the crack in the head your referring to?

Thanks Joe

Have to pull it off the motor and get it magnafluxed at a machine shop is about the only way I know of, aside from a visual check... You might have a cracked valve seat also.

--- Update to the previous post...

http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=N7_EsVHTadM&feature=related

I bet that is it, DANG IT

10-4 on the uncommon problem. When I changed the inj. out they where real sooty and I kept blaming it on the timing. Well got all that lined out and nothing to point the finger to now. The entire exterior of the eng. is brand new, nothing left but the inside of the eng. The only thing not replaced is the map, ait, and the temp sensor, the alt, starter, water pump everything has been replaced.

I set the gap on valvues today to 12/22 hopeing to change something and no change.

From what your saying even compression test will show normal on a cold eng., right? THAT IS CORRECT:thumbup2:

Ok what if I restrict the flow of the return will that start a over fueling if there is a crack between the valvues and return? I DONT THINK SO...I MEAN...I DONT THINK THAT IS WHERE THE CRACK WOULD BE...I COULD BE WRONG...BUT..I THINK IF THIS IS IN FACT THE PROBLEM AND I AM NOT SAYING 100% SURE IT IS..BUT IF IT IS... ITS CRACKED BETWEEN THE EXHAUST OR INTAKE VALVE & THE INJECTOR BORE..POSSIABLY CAUSING A SURGE IN COMPRESSION & EXHAUST PRESSURE{boost}in that particular cylinder..THIS WOULD DRIVE THE MAP SENSOR & ECM FREAK'N NUTS TRYING TO CONTROL IT..

dont mean shut it off but just slow it down. TRY THIS..LET THE ENGINE WARM UP..WHEN IT STARTS TO MISS OR SURGE..GO TAKE OFF THE FUEL TANK CAP AND SEE IF THERE IS PRESSURE...IF THE CRACK IS THRU THE FUEL RETURN GALLEY IN THE HEAD...THEY WILL DEFINETLY BE A CRAP LOAD OF PRESSURE IN THE TANK:smart:

How did you find the crack in the head your referring to? YOU WILL HAVE TO PULL THE HEAD AND TAKE TO A MACHINE OR HEAD SHOP AND HAVE IT MAGNAFLUXED....

Thanks Joe

Richie

Hey guysKinda confused here ............ Cracked injector bore - but jnoe had the issue PRIOR to putting in new 50HP DDP injectors right ? Cracked exhaust valve seat - wouldn't this cause gas to potentially leak out of the head - and basically sound like a 'tick' or and exhaust type sound (like an small exhaust leak) - rather than "missing" ?? dunno

TRY THIS..LET THE ENGINE WARM UP..WHEN IT STARTS TO MISS OR SURGE..GO TAKE OFF THE FUEL TANK CAP AND SEE IF THERE IS PRESSURE...IF THE CRACK IS THRU THE FUEL RETURN GALLEY IN THE HEAD...THEY WILL DEFINETLY BE A CRAP LOAD OF PRESSURE IN THE TANKI drilled a hole in cap to release pressure in tank thinking that may help.There is a small rubber plug on top of fuel tank where you unscrew to remove the factory draw straw, well that plug is cracked like it built up pressure and split. Now it could have split due to age also, but at one time I had pressure in tank. When I went to fuel up it would hiss a lot of pressure I thought. Maybe for about 3 seconds, I didnt think the tank should hold pressure. Does it?Anybody else have pressure in tank?Hey guysKinda confused here ............Cracked injector bore - but jnoe had the issue PRIOR to putting in new 50HP DDP injectors right ? Cracked exhaust valve seat - wouldn't this cause gas to potentially leak out of the head - and basically sound like a 'tick' or and exhaust type sound (like an small exhaust leak) - rather than "missing" ??I do have a tick that sounds like exhaust leak, but it sounds like it is under hood not out of exhaust pipe. Even when valvues set at 8/18 you can here a tick. Could be a fueling tick also. The miss is eritic no consistency to it.

I do have a tick that sounds like exhaust leak, but it sounds like it is under hood not out of exhaust pipe. Even when valvues set at 8/18 you can here a tick. Could be a fueling tick also. The miss is eritic no consistency to it.

I had a burnt/cracked valve seat - or where the "valve head" seats in the block head. Anyway - it sounded like a ticking - but it was constintly there. I had no surging or any other symptoms - just the tick. Sound slike its comming straight from the block, passenger side - and its loudest when you put your ear to air intake. Also had missing 6th bolt on manifold. But no surge/lope/miss. john