I did something incredibly stupid... I attempted to disassemble my grid heater, like the actual unit itself. Upon doing so, I discovered that there is special washers used to keep it sealed. Note to self: do not disassemble grid heater unit itself. 

 

Now I need a new one. Unless I'm missing something, there's no way to un do what I've done. 

 

With that being said, does anyone have a nice used grid heater they would be willing to sell? 

 

Thank you. 

 

I can check my stash, no promises though.

Look for someone down south

Best I can find....

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,fuel+&+air,air+intake+heater,16099

 Oops! I've done a couple of Dumbazz things like that as well. Good luck, hope ya find one.

Thanks everyone, I just bought the one from rock auto. I guess I'll finish destroying my stock one and weld up the bolt holes I mentioned and use it as a grid heater delete part and sell it. 

There you go turning a mistake into bonus in building a grid heater delete block.

Hey can anyone tell me what the tell tale signs of high pressure fuel leak might be? I'm being proactive here. Just buttoned everything back up and took the truck for a drive after installing head studs, injectors, pushrods, and valve springs. I adjusted the valve lash as well per the standard .010 & .020 (95# springs). 

 

I don't believe I did anything incorrect other than torquing down the injector hold downs all the way to spec and THEN installing the crossover tubes. Which is precisely why I'm asking this question. 

 

If I have to pull the injectors out and remove the crossover tubes and do it over again, I will.

 

My thought process is to get my supporting modifications for compounds installed and tuned and squared away before I begin the install of the compounds. I want to know for 100% certain than I am good to go with the mods I've installed before I move forward with the compound install. 

1 hour ago, crf450ish said:

 

 

If I have to pull the injectors out and remove the crossover tubes and do it over again, I will.

 

 

I believe you will have to do it over again due to, just as you say, install the crossover tubes first before wrenching down the injectors. This gets a better line up so no leaks. Sometimes an injector won't leak hardly at all or isn't noticeable but will leak air instead.

9 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I believe you will have to do it over again due to, just as you say, install the crossover tubes first before wrenching down the injectors. This gets a better line up so no leaks. Sometimes an injector won't leak hardly at all or isn't noticeable but will leak air instead.

Can I just remove the injector hold downs and then remove and replace all the crossover tubes and then retighten the lines and THEN torque the injectors down? OR do I have to actually pry up the injector a little bit and then reseat it before doing the above process?

 

 

I know, I know, I shoulda followed PepsiOceans video. I got caught up in reassembly that I spaced on that. 

We all make mistakes that cost time. I think it most important in life how well we can be patient with ourselves.

 

Unfortunately, beyond what I have said, which is reapeating things I have read to help, I cannot say for sure what to do as I have yet to do a set of injectors on a 24 valve. I remember taking my time replacing a VP44, with the greatest of deliberation to follow each step perfectly, she fired up so beautifully with no issues and been 3 years now without a hiccup.

 

I would say as long as the injector can pivot in it's place while tightening the crossovers that's a good thing. Man I wish Dripley were still around he's made most mistakes and corrected everything. Everyone is wondering what has happened.... I will text him today or soon.

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

We all make mistakes that cost time. I think it most important in life how well we can be patient with ourselves.

 

Unfortunately, beyond what I have said, which is reapeating things I have read to help, I cannot say for sure what to do as I have yet to do a set of injectors on a 24 valve. I remember taking my time replacing a VP44, with the greatest of deliberation to follow each step perfectly, she fired up so beautifully with no issues and been 3 years now without a hiccup.

 

I would say as long as the injector can pivot in it's place while tightening the crossovers that's a good thing. Man I wish Dripley were still around he's made most mistakes and corrected everything. Everyone is wondering what has happened.... I will text him today or soon.

I just drove it for 30 minutes on some back roads. Did a few pulls after it was well warmed up, everything seems fine. No loss of power, no missing, no leaks. I also revved it up to 1500 rpm and listened closely for any missing or unusual sounds. Everything seems to be fine. 

 

I'm still going to do what has been suggested.