So on my way to work this morning I noticed my pedal was for the most part dead. No acceleration and the engine was "missing" for lack of a better term.

 Made it to work, truck idled smooth like any other day but if revved a few times it would begin to miss again.

 Had the OBD scanner in the truck so plugged in and saw the P0216 code. That was the only code present.

 I know this is the VP death code but before I drop big $$$ on a pump, is there anything else I need to look at? I want to properly diagnose this and not just throw money at it. Can't afford that rout right now.

 Thanks in advance......

17 minutes ago, ddmk6 said:

I run it through the factory filter with no issues. 

Yep, I think this is best. There may be a reason to get rid of the factory filter, but I've yet to come across it here or anywhere else.

50 minutes ago, wil440 said:

I'm really glad I went mechanical lift pump

If I had it to do all over again, this is likely the route I'd take. In 2020 finding one was nearly if not completely impossible. Haven't looked in quite some time.

 I checked for voltage at the plug for the lift pump. Had 12v there so the lift pump has failed suddenly. (Somewhat, really need to get gauges!)

 

21 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

 I checked for voltage at the plug for the lift pump. Had 12v there so the lift pump has failed suddenly. (Somewhat, really need to get gauges!)

 

Get the power from batteries not the ECM Bud!

 Let's talk gallons per hour, the Fass DDRP I believe is rated at 100gph, there are 2 Raptor pumps, one is rated at 100gph and then 150gph. Which would be the best rout? The Raptor 150 I know has an adjustment for pressure, I believe the 100 does as well. Raptors also claim a lifetime warranty on their website.

 Are the Raptor pumps superior to the fass? I like the fact that there is a pressure adjustment externally. 

 Which pump will be better suited for my truck. I plan on some light mods later but not much. Is 150gph to much for a stock truck?

@JAG1, when I replace the pump I will be doing the relay mod to use battery power for the pump. 

2 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

 Let's talk gallons per hour, the Fass DDRP I believe is rated at 100gph, there are 2 Raptor pumps, one is rated at 100gph and then 150gph. Which would be the best rout? The Raptor 150 I know has an adjustment for pressure, I believe the 100 does as well. Raptors also claim a lifetime warranty on their website.

 Are the Raptor pumps superior to the fass? I like the fact that there is a pressure adjustment externally. 

 Which pump will be better suited for my truck. I plan on some light mods later but not much. Is 150gph to much for a stock truck?

@JAG1, when I replace the pump I will be doing the relay mod to use battery power for the pump. 

As I stated previous I had the 100 but, then showed weakness around 60,000 miles. Now boht trucks have 150's and they are noticeably better. Go for a 150 you will spend the right money and it run cooler, doesn't have to work as hard so will last a long time. IBMobile had trouble with his Mechanical pump and Raptor has treated me so unbelievably well... I hope they still that way. Mopar Man has seen too many failures with Fass. I was surprised when we talked about it over the phone one day. No I don't own shares in Raptor, LOL!

7 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

 Let's talk gallons per hour, the Fass DDRP I believe is rated at 100gph, there are 2 Raptor pumps, one is rated at 100gph and then 150gph. Which would be the best rout? The Raptor 150 I know has an adjustment for pressure, I believe the 100 does as well. Raptors also claim a lifetime warranty on their website.

 Are the Raptor pumps superior to the fass? I like the fact that there is a pressure adjustment externally. 

 Which pump will be better suited for my truck. I plan on some light mods later but not much. Is 150gph to much for a stock truck?

@JAG1, when I replace the pump I will be doing the relay mod to use battery power for the pump. 

The pressure should be the same for the 100 and the 150.  Don't get pressure confused with volume.   If it was my nickel I would go 150 and never look back.  The mounting kit and components are top shelf (and I'm picky).  I'm super happy with the performance. 

 

Get a fuel pressure gauge and good snubbed set up.  It got mine from genos garage.  They have a mount for the gauge that sits on your steering column.  Nice set up.

 

With those components you shouldn't have any more fuel questions. 

Simply put... when demand volume is LESS than supply volume you will have stable pressure. 

 

Now when the demand volume is GREATER than supply volume then pressure will fall. 

 

Higher volume pumps with 1/2 inch plumbing will have better pressure stability. You have to remember that there is return flow in the VP44 as well which most forget in the pump volume. I can tell you that 20 MPG is roughly 2.5 GPH flow rate roughly speaking. That is what is burned at a cruise state. This mean majority is used for cooling and lubing the VP44.

 What is the size of the pick up tube in the tank? I'm probably going to have to drain the tank to install a draw straw since it was just filled up. Ugh  I assume you want to install them with the tank empty since the bottom if the tank will rise slightly due to the decease in fuel weight correct?

2 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

install them with the tank empty since the bottom if the tank will rise slightly due to the decease in fuel weight

I installed mine with the tank empty. Unless you raise the bed to do this I think draining the tank is almost a necessity.

 

Using a pump that's far bigger than you need will make the pump just churn the fuel in circles inside the pump because the regulator just sends it back to the suction side of the pump. This isn't like an airdog, etc., where it is returned to the tank in the name of air separation.

I might be mistaken but, I think Vulcan Performance has their full 1/2 inch line and Raptor LP kit with an adapter that allows the tip of the 1/2 inch draw straw (included in the kit) to slide up and down as the fuel module moves up and down. The factory module has a sleeved bottom so it can slide up and down so the kit has a snap in adapter for the new draw straw. You would have to talk to someone that sells Vulcan kits. Many times Eric down at Vulcan will answer the phone only during business hours. I installed mine 3 or 4 years ago so that's why you would need to verify this. I remember only that Eric's kit is pretty slick for $425/ $460 something like that with the lift pump. I avoided the quick disconnect fittings in the kit and used barbed fittings with ss. clamps. The quick connects are known to leak air sometimes.

The factory screens at the bottom of the module are removed. Adding a prefilter before the lift pump makes it just right to protect the lift pump allowing the factory filter to not have to do all the work. This is important if you get a bad batch of fuel (very rare) you can change the large prefilter easier.

Edited January 17, 20223 yr by JAG1

Down side to @JAG1 suggestion is that returning your fuel to the sender is heated by the cylinder head and VP44 and sent back the sender. If your drawing fuel from here your fuel temps will be much much higher. Say in the realm of 150 to 160*F. Now if you ditch that whole idea and use a standard draw straw in the main fuel tank not out of the sender you find the fuel temps are much lower. Like my truck my AirDog was installed back in 2006. I've kept cooler fuel temps than about 90% of thye people here being I'm not drawing from the sender cup. Yeah I might have Empty tank and 1/8 tank slosh but still clearing over 200k on my last VP44.

 

Being that I've only heard of one person posting up a thread about P0168 code which is high fuel temperature. But we all agree that heat is not a good thing for PSG unit on the VP44. Now I can tell you if you setup like myself your fuel temp will follow the IAT temp exactly. This is due to part I've still got my stock fuel filter housing and there is a coolant passage in the head near the fuel filter so since IAT is right near this coolant passage too the fuel and IAT tend to be very close all the time. Like this winter I'm lucky to see between +20*F to 60*F for fuel temps. Summer time I've have to be towing up a 7% grade with my RV in the Arizona heat to get past 140*F in fuel temps typically.

26 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Down side to @JAG1 suggestion is that returning your fuel to the sender is heated by the cylinder head and VP44 and sent back the sender. If your drawing fuel from here your fuel temps will be much much higher.

I had my plumber sweat in a small barbed adapter to the side of the fuel fill necks on both trucks so my hot return goes down the fill necks instead of near the module.

5 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

 What is the size of the pick up tube in the tank? I'm probably going to have to drain the tank to install a draw straw since it was just filled up. Ugh  I assume you want to install them with the tank empty since the bottom if the tank will rise slightly due to the decease in fuel weight correct?

Or just do this and bypass the draw straw and all the other issues talked about on this thread.  3" hole saw and you're good to go..https://bdpshop.com/beans-diesel-bean-machine-multi-function-fuel-tank-sump-kit-p-n-00-280003/

 

Personally I wouldn't recommend a pre-filter for the lift pump.  I've worked with industrial pumps and compressors for 35 years.   Pre-filters can and will effect flow and possibly cause cavitation.  Just my opinion but something to think about.  The only "pre-filters" I've seen installed/designed by engineers are ones with a large mesh meant to stop things like 2 x 4's lol.  Fine mesh strainers (on the suction side) almost always lead to pump failure.

 

Just my opinion...

Edited January 17, 20223 yr by ddmk6
Clarified filter location

1 hour ago, ddmk6 said:

Pre-filters can and will effect flow and possibly cause cavitation. 

Pumps work by suction.  The impellers suck the fluid through the pump causing a vacuum just behind them.  Atmospheric pressure pushing on the fuel in the tank is what moves the fuel to the vacuum caused by the pump.  A fine micron filter, placed between the fluid supply and pump, acts as a restriction.   

 

Case in point is when the engine stops running due to fuel starvation because the fuel tank vent tube was blocked with mud.  When the fuel cap is removed you hear a whoosh as air rushes in to fill the vacuum in the tank.

2 hours ago, ddmk6 said:

Personally I wouldn't recommend a pre-filter for the lift pump.

 

Always suggest a pre-filter before the pump and never had a cavitation issues. Pumps without a return line are very common for cavitation especially when the pump is dead headed. 

Both my prefilters between both trucks now over 100,000 miles no issues mine are designed for the suction side of the lift pump. Then also you need to consider when running back roads with little used filling stations where their fuel may not be the freshest around. Without a pre filter the lift pump can emulsify the water droplets with the fuel and then factory filter cannot do an effective job of water separation.

 

Truck that hauls heavy gets the 90 GPH Racor prefilter

Truck that hauls lighter gets the 60 GPH Racor prefilter

 

Drilling the 4'' hole with the sump on the tank bottom is illegal in the US. Most that have done this regret the weeping or leaking fuel. Never drill the bottom of a fuel tank Dass Bad!

Edited January 17, 20223 yr by JAG1

14 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Pumps without a return line are very common for cavitation especially when the pump is dead headed. 

 

I am unable to follow the logic here.  Can you offer an explanation?

 

- John

49 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Always suggest a pre-filter before the pump and never had a cavitation issues. Pumps without a return line are very common for cavitation especially when the pump is dead headed. 

I'm just sharing what I have learned from working on pumps and compressors for over 35 years.  Some of these pumps in excess of 1200 gpm.  Your choice if you want to run a filter.  Dead heading is an entirely different subject lol.

47 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

 

Drilling the 4'' hole with the sump on the tank bottom is illegal in the US. Most that have done this regret the weeping or leaking fuel. Never drill the bottom of a fuel tank Dass Bad!

I'm not familiar with this law regarding sumps and I haven't found it yet...https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/393.65

 

I'll keep looking.

 

If your tank is weeping diesel....change the o-ring.  Been running mine for 5 years with no issues.  Thinking about installing another one in the back end of the tank for when I'm going uphill with a low level in the tank.

Edited January 17, 20223 yr by ddmk6
Spelling

3 hours ago, ddmk6 said:

The only "pre-filters" I've seen installed/designed by engineers are ones with a large mesh

Cat use large mesh pre filters 

Interesting conversation. The law regarding the sump is written because if in a wreck with a fire they don't want fuel to be pouring out. I think I found it once in the D.O.T. regulations. If the insurance got a hold of the info, modification to the fuel supply, which caused issues, it might place you in a very awkward position even if the accident weren't your fault. I say this to protect you guys.

26 minutes ago, wil440 said:

Cat use large mesh pre filters 

Racor has them specifically for the suction side of the system.