i have my block warmer on a timer. When it's really cold, go out and trip it back on. but i had to leave in an emergency, and it was -18.What happened was it cranked hard, (no big surprise there) and as soon as oil pressure came up, it kicked to 3 cyl idle. it skipped right over the 2 min normal idle and the 20-30 seconds of high idle. i hit the brake to stop it and it ran rough until the normal program kicked it back in.just thought i'd share that, because i didn't know it would do it that way.

You could of left it.You have a program in the ecm to do that.Mine just goes to 1175 after a bit.Iirc there is 2 programs the first is sorta cold 1175 and the other is way cold 3 cylinder idle.So it sounds normal.

Totally normal...

first time it's done it in that order though. always idled up and then 3 cyl. this time it skipped right over the idle up portion.

i wasn't worried about it. i just hate to load up the engine that cold that quick.

Nothing wrong with it... With my high idle fooler and exhaust brake I kick in the 3 cylinder high idle sometimes just to get heat in the cab. Within about 2-3 minutes the 3 cylinder high is running and EGT are on the way to 800*F. With in about 2 minutes the engine coolant is already 100*F... But that the whole idea of the design is to put the engine under load as quickly as possible to prevent engine damage from fuel wash, tar build up on the valves, etc. Because normal idle will produce very little heat. This is why its suggest to start the engine and start driving it easy right after starting because now you creating load and will gain heat quickly.

I let mine idle until it gets to almost normal operating temp, it usually is anywhere from 130-160 when I start going. Usually by that time there is enough heat in the cab. I figure if it idles at 1200 RPM or you drive at a steady speed keeping 1200 RPM, it wouldn't make a difference. I know from letting my engine idle at normal 800 RPM there has been a significant amount of fuel in the oil by doing that.

I don't have the high idle flash so I just crank up, let idle for about 30 seconds, and drive off taking it easy. Unfortunately there's an interstate on ramp that I take that's about 3 miles from the house, 45mph all the way to it, and then onto the ramp.When it's below about 30F outside my auto transmission really does not want to shift into over drive getting on the interstate. If traffic is light I can take it easy and feather the throttle to get it to lock up and then load it a bit to get up to 55 or 60mph. If traffic is heavy sometimes it wants to just sit at 45mph, 2k rpm, and not shift until it hits about 2200rpm. It does not sound good on a cold truck.

Yea, mine is the same way. Mine will stay around 1800 to 2000 RPM deciding wether or not it wants to kick into overdrive for a bit, then it'll go into overdrive. But, when it does when it's cold it doesn't sound or feel good either. I can feel the kick after it makes the initial shift.

I don't have the high idle flash so I just crank up, let idle for about 30 seconds, and drive off taking it easy. Unfortunately there's an interstate on ramp that I take that's about 3 miles from the house, 45mph all the way to it, and then onto the ramp. When it's below about 30F outside my auto transmission really does not want to shift into over drive getting on the interstate. If traffic is light I can take it easy and feather the throttle to get it to lock up and then load it a bit to get up to 55 or 60mph. If traffic is heavy sometimes it wants to just sit at 45mph, 2k rpm, and not shift until it hits about 2200rpm. It does not sound good on a cold truck.

Yea, mine is the same way. Mine will stay around 1800 to 2000 RPM deciding wether or not it wants to kick into overdrive for a bit, then it'll go into overdrive. But, when it does when it's cold it doesn't sound or feel good either. I can feel the kick after it makes the initial shift.

Sounds like you both need a torque convertor lockup switch. I have the high idle but I usually use it when getting diesel or if the trucks already warm. I usually let it idle for a few seconds and then be really easy on it untill about 70 degrees, then the comp comes on and I drive normally. I usually lockup my Torque convertor about 40 mph when its cold to avoid all the extra noise.

Sounds like you both need a torque convertor lockup switch.

Here you go. http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20Converter%20Lockup%20Switch.pdf

Sounds pretty normal except for the fact that it jumped right to 3 cyl? Or do you mean it idled up then went to it?

Essentially, all your doing is jumping wires in place of the relay?

I dont mean to high jack but am I understanding it right when you say dont let it idle long? You say go ahead and start lightly driving to keep build up from forming? And is this build up in the form of fuel in crank case?

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