I keep debating on whether or not I want to potentially screw up a good thing by installing some injectors to help with towing a little and possibly gain a mile or two. I have no intentions of anything over 75 hp sticks and I was even thinking of keeping it simple with some RV275's. But this isn't a "which injector is best" thread. What I'm wondering is how much HP has anyone put on the OEM 5 speed clutch before it started to slip? I dont really want or have money to justify purchasing a new clutch. So for this reason I have done nothing but if I could get away with some RV275's and keep from changing the clutch then that might work for me.

There is a difference between having more HP and using more HP.. You can put all the mods you want on it and as long as you don't step on it, you're fine. If you do want to step on it, it will only hold the stock power, after that it will slip. If you do it, you will see, I barely got away with any mods at all, slipped like crazy, clutch was perfect upon taking it out, just stock.

OK then..... Let me rephrase the question. Whats the most HP you have been able to create and have the OEM clutch not slip? No point in having the potential to make HP but cant because the clutch will not hold.

That's what I mean, it won't hold anything noticeable over stock power..

Not the answer I was looking for.....

It's hard to swallow when you're on a tight budget but apparently dodge was on the same boat when making the truck I know it's not what you wanted to hear but it is what it is. Cheaper than building up an auto..

my 02 held up just fine with the addition of the banks stinger plus and never slipped. they claim up to 75 rear wheel hp extra. never put it on a dyno to verify but there was definately more horsepower. mine is a six speed ho and maybe they put in a better clutch. i dont know. i do know i pull a trailer that weighs in at 13,500 and never slipped the clutch, even 6th gear. i never held back on the throttle except in 6th. i always tried to hold 6th at no more than half throttle. 1st thru 5th i let her rip and the cluthc never slipped.

True. Thanks for the help. I guess I'll have to wait for a clutch.

--- Update to the previous post...

my 02 held up just fine with the addition of the banks stinger plus and never slipped. they claim up to 75 rear wheel hp extra. never put it on a dyno to verify but there was definately more horsepower. mine is a six speed ho and maybe they put in a better clutch. i dont know. i do know i pull a trailer that weighs in at 13,500 and never slipped the clutch, even 6th gear. i never held back on the throttle except in 6th. i always tried to hold 6th at no more than half throttle. 1st thru 5th i let her rip and the cluthc never slipped.

Actually I understand that the stock 5 speed clutch had less tendency to slip because, even though the 6 speed clutch is a larger diameter, the 5 speed clutch has more surface material than the 6 speed clutch. I always heard from vendors that you can get away with a box before the clutch will slip but not a box and injectors. I was just kinda hoping that someone could say that wasn't always the case.

Like my stock clutch was starting to slip at 381 HP... So say 350 HP is a safe limit for a stock clutch. As for my Southbend ConOFE I've not seen it slip yet...

My stock clutch held for 55K miles at a guess of 350/700 at the crank. A bit of towing, and the last 10K miles were on the 400/750 at the crank setting and it didn't slip until the new turbo that built too much power at 1600-1800 rpms. I was able to back off to the 350/700 setting and not slip it WOT in 6th towing.

Does the NV5600 use the same clutch as the NV4500?

I still have my stock clutch, better than 50% materiel left, that I plan to sell. It only slipped on my twice in a period of 5 miles.. I instantly turned the power down and changed it within 400 miles. There is no sign of any slippage on it.. So it may be a good cheap upgrade, if that's something you are interested in.... $50 plus shipping would take it.

--- Update to the previous post...

Nevermind.. looks like the input shaft and flywheel are different...

Still stock on my 6 spd with an edge juice/attitude and knock on wood i'm ok yet....but I never get on it at bottom end, I usually wait until i'm going along at a good clip

Thanks for the offer AH64ID but your clutch is not the same as mine and wouldn't work. Plus, I guess if I was going to go through all the trouble of tearing the tranny and transfercase out, I might as well consider it the last time and get the right clutch. It was a nice gesture though.One of the reasons I was kinda even bothering with putting the cart before the horse is because there is some great deals out there. I can get a brand new set of RV275's or 56-60 hp sticks for about $250. Sure I can just buy them and not install them but that would be torturous.

where can you buy a set of new rv275 for $250? i would be interested

where can you buy a set of new rv275 for $250? i would be interested

$250 for 50 hp injectors and $284 for new RV275's from Diesel Auto Power. Not a bad price. I haven't looked around to much though so maybe you can get some RV275's for less.

i had his price on my list but i had the core charge added to it. brought up quite a bit. vulcan has new Bosch rv's for $329 + $100 core charge. does any body know if there is any differance in the two? DAP vs Bosch.

I'm sure I'm wrong but I thought that if they were listed as "RV275" then they were Bosch. Anything else would just have a HP rating.

not sure that you are wrong. i had not looked at it that way. i just emailed DAP and asked that question. not sure that rv275 is a bosch name or just a name. we will find out shortly.

--- Update to the previous post...

i stand corrected. J Kidd at DAP says the rv275 are Bosch. I did not realize rv275 was bosch name.

I still have the stock clutch in my truck and you can read my list of goodies in my sig. The clutch will hold for most applications......HOWEVER.......under full power in 4th, 5th, & 6th gear it WILL slip with any kind of a load in or behind the truck. Empty, the clutch will hold but on occasions has slipped in 6th gear going up steep hills with 30lb. plus boost. As long as you use some discreation and common sense, you should be OK with the OEM clutch. When it finally wears out, replace it with a Southbend clutch.

sounds to me with the experience of everyone you ought to put them in and regulate it all with your right foot. in the mean time save up some monery for a new clutch. eventually you will need it.

Awesome. This is what I was looking for. If someone can hold back an EZ and 90 HP injectors then I'm sure I may be just fine. Although I do understand that I may have to regulate to keep the clutch safe until I can replace it. I'm not sure how well that will be accomplished while towing since that's the main reason I'd like the injectors in the first place but..... Thanks for the replies everyone.

Can a slipping clutch lurch repeatedly when under load? Like a grab-slip-grab-slip several times in a row... With the slipping portion not lasting long enough for RPM to change. Or is it always like what I've seen on videos where RPM increases just like you're accelerating, but the truck doesn't move any faster? I've got a stock clutch and 100HP injectors, intake + exhaust...No heavy timing or fueling tunes. It's the same clutch that came in the truck... Which, prior to me, was used to tow a 5th wheel. Pump wire is tapped and there's velcro on my fuse box.. So someone had some fun at some point. I'm trying to figure out if my clutch is going... Or if I've got other issues.