Hey guys, I've been averaging 450 km to a tank! :banghead: i dont understand it! my 400 in my old ford 1/2 ton gets better miledge!! can anyone give me some info onto what this might be!?Thanks guys:pray:

24VTurbo, here is how you get miles per US gallon (what everyone on here uses). Take km/L then multiply by 2.3521. So earlier in this thread you said you had 103km on 14.98L. So you take 103 / 14.98 = 6.8758, this is your km per litre....so you get 6.8758 km/L. But we use miles per gallon so you take that number and multiply it by 2.3521 and get 16.17 MPG.Got it? Km / L = SomethingSomething x 2.3521 = MPG

24VTurbo, here is how you get miles per US gallon (what everyone on here uses). Take km/L then multiply by 2.3521. So earlier in this thread you said you had 103km on 14.98L. So you take 103 / 14.98 = 6.8758, this is your km per litre....so you get 6.8758 km/L. But we use miles per gallon so you take that number and multiply it by 2.3521 and get 16.17 MPG. Got it? Km / L = Something Something x 2.3521 = MPG

yeah i understand... thats shitty miledge

The surging could be from a bad tps (otherwise known as an apps sensor). You would most likely have a code to go along witn that but thats not always the case. If your going to have it replaced, dont let the dealer do it. Theyll want to replace the entire belle crank assembly along with the sensor which is totally unecessary. You can buy just the sensor for around 160 bucks aftermarket iirc compared to 800 bucks from the dealer. Thats the only way its available through the dealer they dont offer just the apps. Its a simple swap takes maybe 20 minutes.

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I have an auto as well and have exactly the same problems you have. Even with 'filling at the same pump etc'.

Im starting to think having an auto may be the problem. Ive done the calibration just the way mike stated and no luck. I watch the numbers closely (without staring too long!) and the numbers go from believable to wacked as soon as i start leveling off from accelerating. Or when i have to be in the throttle to maintain a speed it seems fine but as soon as i back off the pedal just a little bit my numbers start jumping. Ive got a tc lock up and if ive got my converter locked things seem a little closer. I think i may try calibrating again just like the first time when i bought it to see if i get any difference.

been riding around in the combine today.... and thinking about these 'gps'.. (lots of ag tractors now are 'wired' for them, and guided through the field accordingly)I was wondering, lets say you travel point A... to point B. It's exactly 10 miles, point to point. (the way the crow flies) No curves. Straight.BUT, what if it's a pure roller coaster for hills up and down?? This is just a guess, but what if you have to travel 100 feet more per mile to 'cover' the actual 5280?Looking down from above, roads are easy to measure distance.. but I'd think it would be hard to measure the vertical rise and fall needed to the overall distance.Just another question that's been bugging me today!

GPS is fairly accurate for measuring distance. Like even my old Garmin GPS V has Topo maps and can profile a mountain road for you showing the rise and fall and the measurements for vertical feet per second. At least my old Garmin figures in 3 dimensions.

99% of the GPS devices will calculate the elevation into the speed and distance traveled, giving you an accurate distance traveled.

ok, gotcha! :thumbup2:now I can wrap my head around that today!

16-17 is probably what I'm getting with 4.10 gears. Wish it was more but at least you're not in the dumper.

I miss running the JD 8440 (8wd) and 8640.Also the JD 425 Cuber, and the MF-850 Combine, Case 4690, JD 7720-T Combine, Hesston Bailers, Allen hyd. rakes, etc.. We had 6500ac Alfalfa farm. (a little over 10 sections.)

I miss running the JD 8440 (8wd) and 8640. Also the JD 425 Cuber, and the MF-850 Combine, Case 4690, JD 7720-T Combine, Hesston Bailers, Allen hyd. rakes, etc.. We had 6500ac Alfalfa farm. (a little over 10 sections.)

oh man, 10 sections of alfalfa... That would be pure gold these days! around here decent grass hay can command up to 300/ton... can you imagine what top notch alfalfa is bringing? Between the drought, and YELLOW GREED (corn).... forage production is in the tank here for 2012. I've heard a lot of dairies in Texas are now done; last year's lack of feed, and this year's low milk prices put the kibash on a lot of them.... I've had the notion to try a gps on one of my tractors... I haul a lot of hay home from the field with tractor/hay mover, and been wondering about 'mapping' my route home, and turning the AUTO STEER on! They claim 6 inch accuracy over 1/2 mile. I could 'sleep' on my hour long runs! (wake up when the tractor shifts to neutral and stops) hmmmmm... running 20 mph with a 30 ton load... no hands on the wheel..

I grew up in the dairy capital of Tx (Sulphur Springs) back when it was in its prime and now most of the dairies are gone. Its sad and some of my good friends were dairymen and sold out a few years ago.

So I have been slowly seeing lower mpg's myself. I am experiementing with some things though so that might be why. Anyway, I pulled both the map and iat sensor to clean them. The IAT sensor was VERY black and even a bit oily. The MAP sensor on the other hand was completely clean, dry, spotless.... Is that weird?

Im assuming its not normal but maybe I am wrong? Shouldnt they both be dirty?

I think the MAP gets dirty if you have an exhaust brake. Im sure someone here will correct me if im wrong,

I have cleaned both of mine before and as I remember they were both equally black from soot. No oil was present however. I also have an e brake and have heard that will soot them up pretty quick.

Ok. I have an exhaust brake so I was expecting them both to be dirty. The map was completely spotless. I think the IAT sensor had some oil on it because my turbo is leaking. Mike, had any ideas on why one is clean and the other is dirty?

:shrug:I left both of them in for a very long extended period (roughly 30K to 50K miles) kept monitoring the IAT temps and they remain valid even with the sensor all gunked up. so I don't give the sensor cleaning much effort any longer.