I know there was a thread that has a good source for the filter and hose but now that I'm looking, all I can find is the filter.

I checked the price today on John Deere filter with my discount and it will still be $56 with tax. They are cheaper online even with having to pay the shipping. But I can get cheap oil filters if anyone need some lol. Haven't checked on fuel filters yet but will look into it.

how many km's do you typically get out of one of these BHAF??

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My truck came with the magnum force AFE and it is not cutting it! my turbo has a little **** building up not nearly as bad as that pic on here tho! thinking about changing over to this BHAF or looking at the upgrade to the Pro Guard 7 from AFE so I don't have to change the intake tube and do any modifying! its supposed to be there off road filter with good dust control! anyone have any experience with it?

how many km's do you typically get out of one of these BHAF??

I got 135,000 miles (217,000 km's) out of my first BHAF. There wasn't any restriction shown by the filter finder but the filter media inside was starting to darken so not wanting to risk the engine I replaced at that point.

where did the idea to use one of these BHAF come frome?

id guess somebody with a john deere combine said i bet i can cram that under the hood of my 12 valve :lmao:i personaly like the 6637( lot of guys use them on power strokes) because its not so close to the hood, i also made a stainless heat shield to keep from sucking hot air off the turbo......IMHO the the heat shield is a must, hot air is not efficient air.

I've ran the numbers and had a temperature probe on the air filter and the highest I saw on a hill pulling the trailer at 100F was 20 over (120F). After plugging in all the numbers, you end up with a 0.5% gain in air mass in the cylinder when compared with what a cold air intake would provide (100F air). As a reference, 0F - 100F ambient changes air mass by 21%... In other words, because of the intercooler, the cold air intake and heat shield stuff is null and void. You will never notice a 0.5% increase plus that is only under high load conditions, most of the time I was only seeing a 10-15F rise and in the winter I saw almost no rise over ambient. Even if the temp was 50F over ambient, it's still only 1.5% more air mass. It's all because of the intercooler. I know a lot of guys run heat shields and stuff and I'm not trying to say they are bad I'm just throwing the numbers out there. There could be something to how much boost is produced with hot air vs. colder air within the turbo. But turbo efficiency has more to do with it than anything IMO.

I've ran the numbers and had a temperature probe on the air filter and the highest I saw on a hill pulling the trailer at 100F was 20 over (120F). After plugging in all the numbers, you end up with a 0.5% gain in air mass in the cylinder when compared with what a cold air intake would provide (100F air). As a reference, 0F - 100F ambient changes air mass by 21%... In other words, because of the intercooler, the cold air intake and heat shield stuff is null and void. You will never notice a 0.5% increase plus that is only under high load conditions, most of the time I was only seeing a 10-15F rise and in the winter I saw almost no rise over ambient. Even if the temp was 50F over ambient, it's still only 1.5% more air mass. It's all because of the intercooler. I know a lot of guys run heat shields and stuff and I'm not trying to say they are bad I'm just throwing the numbers out there. There could be something to how much boost is produced with hot air vs. colder air within the turbo. But turbo efficiency has more to do with it than anything IMO.

To go along with ISX statement...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7ladNL7V8

So the whole cold air intake comes to a rest now. What ISX is getting at is the intake temperature after the intercooler. It all up to the intercooler not the cold air intake.

Can't believe I procrastinated this long (since starting this thread) but I finally got it and between removing the old air box and installing the BHAF...oh, and strapping it down with bungie cord took all of about 5 minutes. So, I get that the heat from the turbo won't affect performance but will it melt the filter? And will the tube work its way off the filter neck without the stiffeners you guys were talking about?

So, I get that the heat from the turbo won't affect performance

No. Like the video shown a few post back the outlet of the turbo is going to be 300-400*F before the intercooler regardless of the input temperature. So the intercooler is more important than worry about a cold air intake. Like ISX said back at... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6736-BHAF?p=69498#post69498

but will it melt the filter?

No.

And will the tube work its way off the filter neck without the stiffeners you guys were talking about?

You can add a piece of 4" exhaust pipe in the neck to stiffen the plastic up more. But in all the miles of using a BHAF still no issues with it popping off.

Yeah the heat is due to compression which means its hot AFTER the turbo in the turbo outlet. The filter is the same as underhood temps.

One possible problem with the stock air box is it starts to distort over time and does not completely seal out dirty air. I think it's coming from the front side of the air box because it looks like it doesn't compress down enough to the stock filter gasket. That is on the front plastic hook side not the metal clips.I say this because the fins on my turbo are just starting to show some fine dust and dirt.Could this be true?

Could be. I was meaning to show you guys this. My brother came across a stock powerstroke that had a collapsed air filter for 30,000 miles so it was letting every piece of dirt in.

Here is the result. The turbo is actually fine, but you can see the leading edges look all cavitated which I'm guessing was the dirt's fault. The turbo has 300,000 miles on it, same as my turbo did and I don't have any wear like this.

All the leading edges look the same, isn't one in particular or anything.

I need to add that picture to the BHAF article...

One possible problem with the stock air box is it starts to distort over time and does not completely seal out dirty air. I think it's coming from the front side of the air box because it looks like it doesn't compress down enough to the stock filter gasket. That is on the front plastic hook side not the metal clips.

I say this because the fins on my turbo are just starting to show some fine dust and dirt.

Could this be true?

I think I'm having the same problem, and I'm noticing some dirt too. 'Bout time for a BHAF.

(not a very detailed picture)

My turbo fins are a bit dirtier than yours. I think all plastics tend to distort with heat or age. For a temporary fix I thought about using some small wood clamps to squeeze the top down tighter against the gasket. Bad deal though if the clamps don't stay, fall off and damage a rocker panel or a neighboring car.

My turbo fins are a bit dirtier than yours. I think all plastics tend to distort with heat or age. For a temporary fix I thought about using some small wood clamps to squeeze the top down tighter against the gasket. Bad deal though if the clamps don't stay, fall off and damage a rocker panel or a neighboring car.

Have you tried a really heavy duty zip tie?

Or just get a BHAF.

So far most all performance air filters I've seen either dry media, washable, oiled, etc. They all seem to be a dirtier filter. What good is it to have a better flowing filter that flows more dirt than a slightly more restrictive filter that is way oversized for the job and doesn't pass dirt like the performance filters do...

Why stress about the cost of the filter? Even at $76 you'll get 100,000 miles out of it. I walked in and got mine at napa for $42. That was a 6637.

I have never looked at oiled filters for trucks. Sure does keep my dirt bike happy. They use just foam filters you could blow through and my dad went through the engine last year and said it was the cleanest thing he had ever seen. I use a 40:1 mix of 2 stroke oil so there isn't much oil to build up on anything, but there sure wasn't any dirt in there. But the air filter probably has as much surface area as our stock filters and it's only 300cc so I assume it wouldn't be viable on a truck, though I'd like to see the actual oiled filters people are using. Would be nice to be able to clean them as easily as I clean my dirtbikes filter.