Announcement: I will start producing a combination high idle/3 cyl high idle/MPG fooler box in a quality manner. This will not be a 1 time thing. I am going to order in bulk & produce probably 25 at a time. All plug & play with a small durable weatherproof connector to go through the firewall. ECT & IAT wiring will be OEM style plugs so that you do not have to cut & splice the harness. It'll be similar to the MAP sensor harness on a tuner or boost fooler:Unplug connector from sensor, plug in HI/MPG plug to sensor & plug in HI/MPG plug to truck's harness.I am trying to work with a well known diesel performance distributor, so that it will always be in stock for order.Also, a percentage WILL go towards maintaining Mopar 1973 man's site, as that is where it all started & He is the person who figured it all out.It will be about a month before I can truly gear up for this venture. This all has to be negotiated.I will do my best to find an attractive box or pod that can be mounted aestheticly & possibly lit switches to indicate what feature is engaged.Please give me some time to work this all out.YOU WILL NEED THE SOFTWARE IN YOUR ECM ENABLED IF IT IS NOT ALREADY.Full instructions will be available & supplied with the unit.Thank you,Ed

I have never heard of this before, would you be able to explain what this product does and its benefits?

Just what the title says, it will allow you to turn on high idle/3 cylinder high idle no matter the engine temp and also have the mpg booster built in.

You can find in the "Articles" section. If you feel confident in building it, have at it. It is a great little setup. Note, the MPG fooler is really only effective in the colder weather. I am just going to produce a plug & play unit that's "Pretty" for people without the knowledge, experience or confidence. .Ed

very interesting. i live in WI would i have to worry about damage to my rocker arms because of the cold temps? how cold does it have to get? Also i bought my truck used is there anyway to tell if the ecm has already been enabled or not?

very interesting. i live in WI would i have to worry about damage to my rocker arms because of the cold temps? how cold does it have to get? Also i bought my truck used is there anyway to tell if the ecm has already been enabled or not?

Extended idling with coolant temps below 140*F is damaging. All you have to do is with a cold engine stick a 56k ohm or 100k resistor into the IAT plug after you unplug the IAT sensor of course. Start the engine and see if the 3 cylinder high ilde start within about 5 minutes tops.

Would you be interested in building a few MPG foolers, and not high idle ECT foolers?

I surely would make just the MPG fooler. But, if you would need that (which really only works when cold out), why not all 3 switches? Just asking.Ed

For us newbies, can you explain the benefits of these modifications?

OK, IF THE PROGRAMMING IS ENABLED, when it reaches 28 degrees ambient , the high idle is engages When it reaches 13 degrees, the 3 cylinder high idle is engaged. What we are doing here is fooling the ECM to think that it is colder than it actually is. That way your truck warms up quicker for having heat & also not stressing the block when cold (53 block failures are somewhat attributed to this)When it is cold out, the ECM retards the ignition (due to oxides of nitrogen emissions) & you lose mileage.So, when you want to warm up the truck quicker, you engage high idle (also good for idling trucks to keep the temp up & alternator charging for Fire/EMS guys. When it's frigid, you engage the 3 cylinder high idle to warm it up even quicker. When it's cool to frigid out, you use the MPG fooler to keep your timing advanced to get better MPGs.This was all concieved & tested by Mopar1973Man. He gets all the credit for the process.Ed

I surely would make just the MPG fooler. But, if you would need that (which really only works when cold out), why not all 3 switches? Just asking. Ed

Well, I don't really need high idle. I rarely crank the truck when it's below freezing outside. I figured the MPG fooler would help some.

Well, when it's about 40* out, how long of local driving is it before you have good heat? When I moved from Floriduhh, we had -8* here in Utah & I surely wished I went whole hog. But, to each their own. If you research, one of the reasons attributed to "#53 Block failure" is not warming up the block fully before using full power, let alone power adders. Quadzilla's default "Warm up limit" is 140* before adding power if that function is enabled.Not trying to sell you on the product, just trying to inform, as anyone with the confidence & common hand tools can do it themselves.Ed

Keep us posted on the progress of this unit! I will be the first to be willing to pay for such a product if it becomes available.Any figure on pricing?Is this going to be compatible if one has a chip?

Sounds like a great mod! Put me on the list!

I typically see minimum temps of -25*F up here in Idaho bu its nice to hurry the heat up process for the mornings with serious ice build up on the windshield. I can go from -25*F block temp to 170*F of coolant temp in about 10 minutes using 3 cylinder high idle and a exhaust brake. Then its nice to pull in to a store for a quick soda pop and being able to set 6 cylinder high idle and keep the truck warm. Or... Another is in the heat of the summer set 6 cylinder high idle to aid in quick cab cooling this keeps the fan going and A/C colder than just idle does. So this is a few reason to do the full boat of high idle and MPG fooler...

I live in a hole. Leaving my driveway I have to go uphill a fair distance before it flattens out. I like the idea of being close to operating temps when I leave.

Remember this will cost you fuel to use to get the heat. So typically I use it till about 100*F and then bail out. But for those day that are icy it wonderful. I'm also in a hole too so as I climb up out of the hole it gets colder.

Pricing is not decided yet, as I am getting quotes on connectors. I will be ordering everything by the 100 count so that there will always be units on the shelf & ready to ship.Yes, this will be fully compatible with any chip for our trucks. Ed

Well, when it's about 40* out, how long of local driving is it before you have good heat? When I moved from Floriduhh, we had -8* here in Utah & I surely wished I went whole hog. But, to each their own. If you research, one of the reasons attributed to "#53 Block failure" is not warming up the block fully before using full power, let alone power adders. Quadzilla's default "Warm up limit" is 140* before adding power if that function is enabled. Not trying to sell you on the product, just trying to inform, as anyone with the confidence & common hand tools can do it themselves. Ed

I wait til the truck warms up, or at least I don't drive until it hits 140*, and don't romp on it til 180*. If I can afford it, I'll probably go ahead and buy the whole unit. Thanks for the info.

Nothing quite like the sound of a 24v going into 3 cylinder high idle.

please PM me the price of the finished product when complete. unless someone else feels like building me one. i'm at the point that i'd rather pay, i have not the time to build one. the skills to solder and install are easy. but no time...Thanks.