what type of tools or parts should I has go with me on long trips? I has most basic tools as in craftsman 4 drawers carry toolbox but I need know what is size of rear Dana 80 (3.55) nut for rear hub bearing assembly? and front hub bearing big nut?? so I can be ready if something is happen on trip. I am plan to go up to Wisconsin as my parents' families live there. same time I has towing 7x12 enclosed trailer with two Harley road king classics plus some of bicycles or other suitcases in trailer(two axles rated to 7,200 lbs) I just want be ready to do what I can do or have my parents go to get things and I can fix myself. then on December, I will driving to Gulf shore for a week vacation. so I would like to see what is suggest and options. I has extra fuel filters keep inside truck.

A decent set of hand tools is about all I ever carry. If something breaks I would not have the right part more than likely. I know others who do carry some spares, but its just not worth it to me.

Do you have any issues with the bearings making noise or getting warm? Chances are you won't have any problem. I just returned from a trip from NE Mn to NE Oh and back towing my fiver. I had a brake issue and a new controller fixed it. Just check the normal maint. items and you should be good to go. IF you need anything there are lots of places to pick it up on your route. I used to go through Wi, Il, & In. but the tolls got to be wat too much. Now I go through the UP and lower Mich.Just bring a set of wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, and a fuel filter.

what type of tools or parts should I has go with me on long trips? I has most basic tools as in craftsman 4 drawers carry toolbox but I need know what is size of rear Dana 80 (3.55) nut for rear hub bearing assembly? and front hub bearing big nut?? so I can be ready if something is happen on trip. I am plan to go up to Wisconsin as my parents' families live there. same time I has towing 7x12 enclosed trailer with two Harley road king classics plus some of bicycles or other suitcases in trailer(two axles rated to 7,200 lbs) I just want be ready to do what I can do or have my parents go to get things and I can fix myself. then on December, I will driving to Gulf shore for a week vacation. so I would like to see what is suggest and options. I has extra fuel filters keep inside truck.

I've got only one socket set that's it. If I loose a wheel bearing I guess I better just call a tow truck. As for worrying about what tools to take I don't even worry most times. I just keep up my monthly inspections and deal with any failures promptly. To this date since purchasing my truck on October 26, 2002 my truck has never seen a tow truck and never left me walking. I've always gotten home. If you let the paranoia set in too bad you'll start leaving home with a another Dodge in tow so you can tow the broken one home or part the towed rig for parts. This is going way too far...

To this date since purchasing my truck on October 26, 2002 my truck has never seen a tow truck and never left me walking. I've always gotten home.

I got ya beat. I purchased mine 5/5/01 and 146,000 miles later (truck has 278,000 on it) I have never walked because of my truck and that includes it being a 2wd and winter time driving!!

I got ya beat. I purchased mine 5/5/01 and 146,000 miles later (truck has 278,000 on it) I have never walked because of my truck and that includes it being a 2wd and winter time driving!!

Don't go there... You might not of had to walk home but you've got the only Cummins that never stops... Me and Brakes http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=907 I Got Brakes http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=894 I had to pick back at ya. (Time to take cover I know the crap going to hit the fan!)

AAA membership is the most valuable tool you can have. Trust me, no one does more long trips than I do.Your trailer is more likely to fall apart than your truck. I'd have a spare trailer hub (with bearings) and a tire. I'd also have the tools to fix it.

Maybe even think about packing the bearing on the trailer.

I agree with the trailer going to be your biggest issue. As long as you keep up on your maintenance the truck should be fine. I usually always re pack my trailer bearings once a year just to be safe but most people don't. I just have a basic set of hand tools with me too. I also carry a spare lift pump. It was the old one that I took off so I just had it laying around. At least I wouldn't be stranded and I could get home or to a shop on the old pump.

Don't go there... You might not of had to walk home but you've got the only Cummins that never stops... Me and Brakes http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=907 I Got Brakes http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=894 I had to pick back at ya. (Time to take cover I know the crap going to hit the fan!)

But at least I get home!!:tongue:

I will do re-pack wheel bearings on trailer since my dad and I just bought trailer from Detro trailer store. I did a lot of maintenance on my cummins and so far I has no problem except I has to put fuel filter on 1/2" big hose to keep debris out of raptor pump. I has mostly common hand tools. But if something happen at my uncle or aunt home, I can use my tools to fix at their garage If I need to do. I just want to be prepare than search for tool around small towns of Wisconsin...

I has found a correct rear hub bearing nut socket as otc 2 9/16 round 6 points socket. I am trying to figure out what is correct front hub bearing as RWD.

For the front nut all you need is a pair of Channel Lock pliers. You won't be tightening them anywhere close enough to even mar the nut. As long as you pack the bearings and tighten the nut properly you won't need to worry about the front bearings.

you have to think realistic.i keep trans fluid(my trans takes dextron 3, so it works for both the transfer case and the tranny, a quart of 15w40 motor oil, spare fuel filters, a spare serpentine belt, and adjustable wrenches. that is it.I also keep a 3/8's two headed barbed fitting because my t-fitting for my fp gauge did crack once and almost left me stranded, so i keep one now for that reason. I also keep some hose clamps and tubing as well. Why? because 99% of what you will deal with is solved by that stuff if not odds are you won't have the parts to fix it.I have an ability to meguiver fixes to stuff, adjustable wrenches can do alot, everything from bleeding injector lines, to removing and fixing trailer hubs. ive never snapped a serpintine belt, but keep one just because loosing your belt will screw you up in more then one way.I have oil leaks out of my transfer case and rear diff, ive replaced the transfer case seal but it still leaks, oh well, better to keep fluid handy.I agree with moparman you can't start lugging around enough equipment to replace your truck with because then you will have no faith, and frankly new trucks aren't that much more reliable anyways.

I take my infrared thermometer and check the temperature on my wheels every now and then before road trip ( after running on highway ofcourse). Might be overkill. But if one wheel consistently hotter than the other then obviously a problem there and u catch it before ur trip .. sent from my cell...

For the front nut all you need is a pair of Channel Lock pliers. You won't be tightening them anywhere close enough to even mar the nut. As long as you pack the bearings and tighten the nut properly you won't need to worry about the front bearings.

Tom, that may be correct on a 2wheel drive truck (I've never worked on one) but on 4 wheel drive trucks they are torqued. I can't remember the spec, but it is up around 150-180 ft lbs IIRC. The socket is actually a metric size but I use an inch and 3/4". It is a tad sloppy, I believe an inch and 11/16 would fit better but it's what I have and works for me. One of the best preventative mods I have done is tap my hubs with a grease zerk so that I can grease my hubs every few years. They were nearly dry when I had them apart a few years ago so they were most likely on borrowed time. BTW, a 2 wheel drive truck in Minnesota...:eek: You sir, are a brave soul!! JR

Tom, that may be correct on a 2wheel drive truck (I've never worked on one) but on 4 wheel drive trucks they are torqued. I can't remember the spec, but it is up around 150-180 ft lbs IIRC. The socket is actually a metric size but I use an inch and 3/4". It is a tad sloppy, I believe an inch and 11/16 would fit better but it's what I have and works for me. One of the best preventative mods I have done is tap my hubs with a grease zerk so that I can grease my hubs every few years. They were nearly dry when I had them apart a few years ago so they were most likely on borrowed time. BTW, a 2 wheel drive truck in Minnesota...:eek: You sir, are a brave soul!! JR

where did you tap these? is there a write up? im pusing 100,000 miles on this pig so im courious.

Unfortunately I don't even have any pictures at the moment, I had them on my phone along with about 600 other pictures and it ended up in Lake Erie a month or so ago. I KNOW I had all my pictures saved to a cloud drive, but cannot retrieve them. It's been a real bummer because I have been using my camera phone as my primary camera for years and lost out on a lot of good memories.... Back to the wheel bearing, it's pretty straight forward. You have to remove the bearings from the truck, and the hole will be drilled on the top of the flange, and centered. This allows the grease to be distributed on the outside of the bearing (You will have to rotate the bearing as you grease) The important part is to take your time and don't drill too far. You will know when you push through the housing of the hub, that is all the further you want to go. I used a pencil magnet to get all the shavings out, this is another important step. I also put the shop vac up to the hole to try to suck anything out the magnet may have missed. When tapping I coated the tap with grease and then swabbed the hole with the magnet a few more times. On trucks like mine with the rotors and hubs pressed together with the studs, you will have to use a 90* grease zerk and point the fitting towards the inside of the truck. A hole app. 1/2" (big enough to fit the grease hose through) will have to be drilled through the spindle so that you can access the grease zerk from inside the wheel, next to the universal. This may not be necessary with slip on rotors, you may be able to simply remove the rotor to access the zerk. This is something that in all honesty probably only needs done every few years depending on how many miles you drive and if you are in the mud and slop frequently. You definitely don't want to over grease them and blow the seals.... When I drilled and tapped mine I had pulled them to change my rotors. In the process of trying to pull the hubs from the truck, I separated both hubs. The outer half came with the rotor and the inner remained frozen in the spindle. Everyone I talked to said they were ruined at that point and I would have to buy new. Not wanting to shell out big coin on two hubs and having nothing to lose, I figured I would play around with them. Being able to see the insides of one helped me choose the spot to drill them, I cleaned them up and pressed them back together with a 50 ton press. Then I drilled and tapped and greased them. My hubs were pretty low mileage (about 75k) but at 13 years old there was not that much grease left in them. I pumped 20 shots into each hub while spinning them to distribute the grease evenly.Getting pictures will be kind of tough without pulling everything apart but I will do my best to get a few in the next day or so if your interested....JR