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Do I need to retain my fuel heater?

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I want to start mods with a lift pump. One thing that I am concerned about is loosing the fuel heater. I often work in Eastern Montana and the Dakotas. Do I need to retain the fuel heater? Can I use something like a Fass 150 and retain the fuel heater?ThanksDave

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There is no reason to delete your stock canister IMO. You can run whatever fuel pump you choose and still run through the OEM set up. Just think of it as an extra filter and added insurance. Plus you will retain the water in fuel sensor to alert you of any potential problems. As for the heater itself, I have heard of a few instances in sub zero weather where not having one has left people stranded, but I believe it has to be pretty extreme weather. Being in Montana you could possibly see it get cold enough to cause a problem. JR

I installed my air dog 150 this summer. It gave no option for retaining the use of the old canister. I guess i'll find out how important the fuel heater is this winter.

I installed my air dog 150 this summer. It gave no option for retaining the use of the old canister. I guess i'll find out how important the fuel heater is this winter.

It's simply a matter of cutting your 3/8 or 1/2 fuel hose down (whichever you ran) and adding the proper fitting to tie into the canister, then run a big line kit from canister to VP. Vulcan Performance sells any and all fittings you could ever need to do whatever you need to do ;) JR
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    I replaced the fittings in/out & retained my stock canister, mainly to retain the Water In Fuel light function. I should never see any down stream from my AD150 but I dislike disabling things & leaving wires hanging.

    The short answer is no, you do not need the heater. My daughter's truck has been running for the last six years in northern Minnesota without it.

    I am installing a airdog 2 165 on my personal truck and a customers truck this week. I am keeping the stock housing mostly for the water seperation. You will actually get more heat from you injector and vp return than the fuel heater in the housing. Hopefully everything will hook right into the housing. I also have a 1/2" fuel line kit that I took off my third gen that I am going to run from the stock housing to vp

    • Author

    I am installing a airdog 2 165 on my personal truck and a customers truck this week. I am keeping the stock housing mostly for the water separation. You will actually get more heat from you injector and vp return than the fuel heater in the housing. Hopefully everything will hook right into the housing. I also have a 1/2" fuel line kit that I took off my third gen that I am going to run from the stock housing to vp

    I would like to look over your shoulder on one of these installs. Your not in WA by any chance? I know its a pain in the ___ but if you could post a list of the necessary fittings in and out and maby a pic or too that would be great. I would like to retain the WIF and heater but if it is gonna be a significant restriction I guess it needs to go. I really need this truck to start every time any where. I need a smart place to pull a signal for a fuel pressure gage in there as well. This is the beginning of a over all mod strategy. I am looking to understand where the acceptable drive ability and reliability limits are then choose a mod package that I can live with. I am expecting the clutch to probably be the limiting factor in how much power I can build, because I need a clutch engagement smooth enough to position trailers by inching back and forth as well as clean enough release to shift up and down. I expect this will limit me to a 450 - 475 hp clutch with a single disk using organic lining on at least one side. I believe the 02 6 speed clutch lay out will help a little here, but that will be an other thread.... btw thanks for the replys:thumbup2:

    I will make a write up when i do mine. As far as the clutch, my old 02 with adrenaline and 6 speed held up fine making 387/870. My buddies 5 speed making 450/1200 could not handle the power. I have installed a couple southbend ohd clutches and they are really smooth and holds the power

    The banjo fittings are very restrictive... no point in installing big lines & leaving banjoes. I got all mine from Vulcan.

    When I installed my ADII I just used the fitting that was supposed to go into the VP and put it in the filter canister, then installed a big line kit to the VP. It was quite simple. Everything I needed came with both kits.

    When I installed my ADII I just used the fitting that was supposed to go into the VP and put it in the filter canister, then installed a big line kit to the VP. It was quite simple. Everything I needed came with both kits.

    Thank you. I have been racking my brain trying to remember if the fittings for the filter were the same as the vp. Looks like my homemade big line kit will work as well as the a.d. hooking into the filter housing

    Vulcan Performance has a nice selection (and good description) of any fittings that you may needJR

    Vulcan Performance has a nice selection (and good description) of any fittings that you may need JR

    Thats where i got all my parts for my 2 micron filter setup and big line kit for my 3rd gen. They have everything you need and at the right price
    • Owner

    I kept my stock filter can. So I kept my fuel heater and WIF sensor which is fine by me. Easy way is to get a Big Line Kit and then you'll have the fitting from the filter to the VP44 and the hose for $39 bucks. Pretty simple.

    • Author

    As this is starting to take shape in my head I am leaning towards the Raptor 150 http://www.vulcanperformance.com/raptor-FP-150-fuel-system-p/rptd150.htm and a remote filter assy like the VPmax; http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VP-MAX-Dual-Remote-Filter-Kit-p/drff.htm This assy uses a 3 micron filter :thumbup2: near as I can tell the best filter for the stock housing is 8m This setup will be able to tuck up high next to the bed. I dont like systems that hang down under the frame rail.

    The heater after 2 filters is about as useless as no heater at all. The fuel will gel in the first non-heated filter it comes to, every time. I run 2 fuel heaters, on my first 2 filters, and the 3rd filter in on the engine and the fuel is warm from the previous 2 heaters. Based on that you can guess my opinion. If I gel in my 3rd filter then I guess it was just meant to be. Much of today's winterized fuel is done with additive, and not mixing #1. If you trust the fuel distributors to properly mix the fuel then a heater is not needed. The only issue with that is the test occurs when it's COLD outside. I have gelled once, B20 (long story), and at any temp with a - in it the truck is COLD, very very COLD. FASS has the ability to add a heater to their pumps, and there are several companies that make stand alone heaters. Like I mentioned, you can guess my opinion.

    • Author

    If your adding filters, just go with an airdog, its the same setup but cheaper.

    Donaldson P551315 is a 3 micron

    Baldwin BF1275 is the best water separator

    Baldwin PF7977 in the stock housing is 5 micron

    All of the airdogs mount the pump over the filters making a tall assy I am thinking the raptor so nothing is hanging down

    BUT a good point; the remote filters will not be heated makeing retention of the stock heated filter pointless.:doh: allways somthin

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    aww then there's this:ashamed:

    http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6960-Terrible-luck-with-Raptor

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