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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

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Spring has sprung here in Minnesota, so in a few weeks I'll be able to haul my '94 to the shed to get working on it.  I posted WAY back when I first found this forum on my build plans.  I'll start here again to bring everyone back up to speed.   

 

First off, is this the right part of the forum to post a "build" thread?  If not please direct me to the correct location.  thanks

 

I restored a '51 Pilothouse B3D truck that was my great grandfathers truck.  I seem to have a disease now, lots of old truck parts in my house, garage and at friend's sheds.  I decided a few years back I was going to take a modern powertrain and graft on a Pilothouse cab/front clip as a daily driver.  This truck will be a stretched 3 door cab flat bed stake side hauler style truck.  I've got all the old Pilothouse cabs and doors to cut apart and re-weld up to the stretched cab.  As well as all the doors I could need to make the 3rd door and fill the space behind the passenger side door.

 

The '94 has a fresh rebuilt tranny and about 150K on the engine.  I've been thinking that since it will all be available to work on, going thru the engine and rear end would be a good idea right now.  Before I start to tear things off, any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Plans include air ride, saddle fuel tanks, rear duals and a tip up front end like a semi for engine work.  

 

thanks, I look forward to keeping this thread moving over the course of the spring/summer while things start under way.

Edited by PilotHouse2500

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Got the hood center section mounts and mounted yesterday (slow day).

 

 

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I like the H.D. bucket. It's perfect for your project. "Lets do this".

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bumper on

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Edited by PilotHouse2500

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I'm so impatient I wanna see it done already... I keep looking and watch you getting pieces put together and seriously wanting to see it completed. Going to be a awesome one of a kind vehicle worth way more to you... Rock On! :truck:

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Thanks guys,  sadly my shop floor heat boiler took a Ferd this last weekend (yes during this -30F crap).  So, the plan for truck parts just got pushed back to replace that nice "cheap" piece of hardware.  Look for more body work I guess to keep coming.  I know I have plenty of that to do yet.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have kicked around the idea of having front airbags, but just have not heard enough about them to see it’s justifiable or not, although a little pricey too, I was thinking of building my own ,  It would be nice to adjust the air pressure between the front and rear bags to get the perfect height stance and ride and stability 

  • Author
On 3/2/2021 at 10:20 AM, 01cummins4ever said:

I have kicked around the idea of having front airbags, but just have not heard enough about them to see it’s justifiable or not, although a little pricey too, I was thinking of building my own ,  It would be nice to adjust the air pressure between the front and rear bags to get the perfect height stance and ride and stability 

 

yah $1500 for the fronts and when I can afford the rears at $3500...but seeing as I won't be hauling much weight much of the time, it will smooth the ride out and be less like a farm wagon.

Looks like you should be able to buy the bags and build the rest. 

  • Author
On 3/5/2021 at 1:52 PM, Royal Squire said:

Looks like you should be able to buy the bags and build the rest. 

Actually Kelderman makes a complete kit for the rear....plug and play and tested for safety/workability.  Replaces the springs and all.  Some things I'll just pay for.

 

I little door work going on to get it where it needs to be. 

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  • Staff

Is a post going between the front and rear doors? Nice to look at the progress. :thumb1:

This has and still is fun to watch. I went back to post #1 just for the heck of it and Friday the 12th will be the 7th aniversary of the thread. Keep up the good work.

  • Author
13 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Is a post going between the front and rear doors? Nice to look at the progress. :thumb1:

 

Think modern vehicles with the suicide rear door with bearclaw top and bottom.  Once both doors are open, no middle pillar.  Next step is to build the rear door on the passenger side....I'll update as things progress.

Edited by PilotHouse2500

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13 minutes ago, PilotHouse2500 said:

 

Think modern vehicles with the suicide rear door with bearclaw top and bottom.  Once both doors are open, no middle pillar.  Next step is to build the rear door on the passenger side....I'll update as things progress.

It's that I can't understand how both doors will marry together when closed, being they curve away from each other at the top.

  • Author
5 hours ago, JAG1 said:

It's that I can't understand how both doors will marry together when closed, being they curve away from each other at the top.

 

The rear door will have a pointy bit towards the front, basically filling in the open spaces.....don't feel bad...its been a point I've struggled with:  do I just run a vertical line up (like modern) or go for it all and do the pointy bit (full coach style build).

Edited by PilotHouse2500

Either way would seem to work. Even with our seconds being straight you still cant open the rear with out opening the front. I guess straight is a little cleaner looking but it still functions the same.

  • Author

Yah you have to open the front to open the rear.  The straight line up just doesn't seem like a 50's era look, hence the pointy.

  • Staff

While test driving second gen trucks I remember the cabs that did not have the rear door for the extended cab and you had to fold the seat forward to climb in, the cabs had less flexing and felt more solid like if you got broadsided would be safer for everyone. Just a thought there Bud.

 

You gonna sell me that truck when done right? Right! :punish:

  • Author

Well, the door "sill" beam that runs across the side of the cab is a 2 x 4 x 3/16 piece of tubular steel, and the rear cross tie is 2 x 2 x 1/4 tubular steel.  The cab mounts are welded thoroughly to these members....if I get broadsided I think I'll be in pretty good shape except for NO crumple zones....PLUS I plan on schedule 40 pipes to be bent and made as the running board main frame.

not fer sale!   LOL.  But I hope to do some serious road tripping before the morons make fuel unavailable and a loop thru the PNW on the way to my buddies in CA is on the list.

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.