Looking for some opinions.  I have a 99 with an automatic.  It's mostly a daily driver and I drive like a Grandpa. We plan on buying a camper next year, somewhere probably in the 3000 to 4000lb range, to go out a few times a year.  I just serviced the transmission and adjusted the bands.  Everything is working like it should. I'm wondering if a double deep pan and a shift kit is necessary, or if it will increase the durability of the tranny significantly.  I'm a preventative maintenance nut so the tranny will be serviced regularly with or without the mods.

Also, I'm running a stock exhaust.  Would I see any benefit from a 4" exhaust over stock with my current setup? (see sig line). I don't plan on any more performance mods, looking more for keeping the truck in good running condition for a long time.

Governor pressure sensor and solenoid with band adjustment. Get the bigger updated solenoid. Dont know about tranny pans. Heard they arnt everything they are hyped to be. I always add a bottle of lucas trans fix just to help lubricate bands and clutches.

I love 4" exhaust. Wont help with power or mileage but will help with sound. I like mbrp 4" turbo back. Installer series

Governor pressure sensor and solenoid with band adjustment. Get the bigger updated solenoid. Dont know about tranny pans. Heard they arnt everything they are hyped to be. I always add a bottle of lucas trans fix just to help lubricate bands and clutches.

I love 4" exhaust. Wont help with power or mileage but will help with sound. I like mbrp 4" turbo back. Installer series

Where is a good place to get the solenoid and sensor.  They are all over ebay but I want to make sure I get the Borg-Warner.

I get mine through http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/. Great people and fast shipping

Yeah I found that place when I was looking.  I'm going to go with them.  Thanks for the help.

If your trailer will truly only be in that weight range you mentioned, I don't think you would need much more than what you have now. The only thing I would be concerned about pulling the trailer is line pressure. The stock transmissions don't have much in that dept. These transmissions are problematic because of this issue. A shift kit could help raise the line pressures, but you could also look at the BD line pressure kit.

 

The transmission already has two methods of cooling the fluid. I would make sure that your coolant is fresh and the cooler at the front of the truck is not plugged with debris, etc.

 

Also, with what you have now, I would not think a 4" exhaust would do you much good for performance except for lower EGT's. But as long as you keep out of OD when cruising, you should be good anyways. You'll probably not even notice it back there, being that light.

 

I would say, if you do not have any already, to get your 4 gauges for the truck:

 

1. Fuel pressure

2. Boost pressure

3. EGT

4. Trans temp.

 

Your gonig to be able to have a better time driving it with being able to utilize your gauges than the other mods you mention. Remember also, because your an auto, going up mountain roads with the trailer, you will be going slow and won't be in lockup. Thats going to get the transmission oil hot.

 

I pulled a utility trailer full of stuff and had the bed of my truck full of stuff for a week long elk hunt and pulling up the mountain roads in 2nd gear got my trans fluid hot. I got concerned enough to the point that I put it in 4lo and used the lower gearing to help things out.

 

Being that you have a 2wd, you won't be able to do this. You may want to actually consider getting an aux cooler instead.

 

Here is the line pressure kit:

 

http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/29P

 

Aux coolers:

 

http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/251P

http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/273P

If your trailer will truly only be in that weight range you mentioned, I don't think you would need much more than what you have now. The only thing I would be concerned about pulling the trailer is line pressure. The stock transmissions don't have much in that dept. These transmissions are problematic because of this issue. A shift kit could help raise the line pressures, but you could also look at the BD line pressure kit.

 

The transmission already has two methods of cooling the fluid. I would make sure that your coolant is fresh and the cooler at the front of the truck is not plugged with debris, etc.

 

Also, with what you have now, I would not think a 4" exhaust would do you much good for performance except for lower EGT's. But as long as you keep out of OD when cruising, you should be good anyways. You'll probably not even notice it back there, being that light.

 

I would say, if you do not have any already, to get your 4 gauges for the truck:

 

1. Fuel pressure

2. Boost pressure

3. EGT

4. Trans temp.

 

Your gonig to be able to have a better time driving it with being able to utilize your gauges than the other mods you mention. Remember also, because your an auto, going up mountain roads with the trailer, you will be going slow and won't be in lockup. Thats going to get the transmission oil hot.

 

I pulled a utility trailer full of stuff and had the bed of my truck full of stuff for a week long elk hunt and pulling up the mountain roads in 2nd gear got my trans fluid hot. I got concerned enough to the point that I put it in 4lo and used the lower gearing to help things out.

 

Being that you have a 2wd, you won't be able to do this. You may want to actually consider getting an aux cooler instead.

 

Here is the line pressure kit:

 

http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/29P

 

Aux coolers:

 

http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/251P

http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/273P

Thanks for the help. I went through the truck when I bought it a couple of months ago and serviced everything. Coolant is new, flushed system, cleaned out radiator, tranny cooler, and condenser, replaced thermostat and so on. Whoever had this truck, drove it and changed oil, that's about it. The transmission has been rebuilt or replaced at some point and so has the rear end, I could tell when I serviced it. I've already installed the fuel pressure gauge and plan on doing the rest as soon as I get enough money. Since we are not getting the camper until next year I think I'll do the gauges first, governor solenoid and sensor, line pressure kit, then auxiliary cooler. The camper will be in that range, I bought way more truck than I need, I've just always wanted a Cummins, and I figure better to over do it.  Thanks again for the info.

Looking for some opinions.  I have a 99 with an automatic.  It's mostly a daily driver and I drive like a Grandpa. We plan on buying a camper next year, somewhere probably in the 3000 to 4000lb range, to go out a few times a year. 

 

You know one thing about the english language is that it is not always possible to understand what someone means when they say something you think you understand.

 

As an example when I read your post that you were planning on buying a camper next year in the 3-4k weight range, the first thing that went through my head was that you were buying something that would fit in the bed of your truck. Those kind of units are most often called campers or slide in campers.  The things we pull behind our trucks (connected to a bumper pull type hitch) are often called trailers or travel trailers and the things we pull behind the trucks but are connected to the hitch (goose neck, kingpin..) in the bed are often called 5th wheels or 5ers.

 

So here I was thinking that your camper was to be a slide in camper and was about to reply that you will likely be outside the capacity of your wheels and tires with that much weight in the bed.

 

Others seemed to answer with input thinking your were talking about hooking up to a trailer of some kind (which likely wouldn't strain the tires and wheels much at all).

 

So not knowing for sure, I think I will sit this one out and wish you the best in whatever it is you are going to be getting

Ahem, wait a second... That would be my mistake. I have a bit of a problem skimming things and not digesting it in its rightful manner...

 

If you are doing a slide-in camper, you are going to want to do airbags, too. I personally would not feel comfortable going over 3.5k fully loaded. Of course, your going to want to make sure you are not exceeding your tire or wheel ratings.

 

Also, I have never done a slide-in, but I bet many who have here, would probably also recommend some sway bars to keep body roll to a minimum.

Edited April 28, 201411 yr by hex0rz

At the 3K-4K limit, a shift kit & upgraded solenoid should do you fine. If you really want to do it right, get a single disk billet torque convertor. Heck, even a stock trans can handle that. I hauled quiute a bit more from Floriduhh to Utah & used OD most of the time, until I hit steep hills with a fully stock trans.

 

Ed

For what you are doing, you would probably be better to stick with the stock exhaust. Unless you do injectors at some point, you probably wouldnt even notice any difference in EGT's. With the 4 in you also have the possibility of a drone while towing and that is not comfortable for anyone.

I am no tranny guy but it sounds like everyone else has got you covered there. Definitely get some gauges and you will be good to go.

You know one thing about the english language is that it is not always possible to understand what someone means when they say something you think you understand.

 

As an example when I read your post that you were planning on buying a camper next year in the 3-4k weight range, the first thing that went through my head was that you were buying something that would fit in the bed of your truck. Those kind of units are most often called campers or slide in campers.  The things we pull behind our trucks (connected to a bumper pull type hitch) are often called trailers or travel trailers and the things we pull behind the trucks but are connected to the hitch (goose neck, kingpin..) in the bed are often called 5th wheels or 5ers.

 

So here I was thinking that your camper was to be a slide in camper and was about to reply that you will likely be outside the capacity of your wheels and tires with that much weight in the bed.

 

Others seemed to answer with input thinking your were talking about hooking up to a trailer of some kind (which likely wouldn't strain the tires and wheels much at all).

 

So not knowing for sure, I think I will sit this one out and wish you the best in whatever it is you are going to be getting

Sorry for the confusion.  I'm a hillbilly from Virginia and anything more than a tent we call a camper.  It will be a small bumper pull travel trailer.

No need to apologize for bein' a Hillbilly! My family on my Dad's side are a bunch of 'em!

...I wonder, what gears are you running?

...I wonder, what gears are you running?

3.54

Being as I'm  old oil guy , I  must say keep the ATF clean cooled and it should do ok , but above all use the right trans oil.

I will say do the exhaust. When I did all the mods to my truck, which aren't much, the addition of the larger exhaust is what really woke that puppy up. I tow a 20' trailer right at 9K and the exhaust with the EGT gauges are a big help making sure I keep the truck within a safe range in the hills. Do the exhaust, you won't be disappointed... 

If you get an in-the-truck bed type camper (vs. a towed trailer) ....the one major thing I would do is to consider trading the 2500 in for a 3500 Dually rig if the camper will be 3500 to 4000 pounds.  IMHO - that is a lot of weight unless your truck has a "wide stance".  And a 3500 would comfortably carry that camper weight.

Edited May 6, 201411 yr by vineyardmh

I have a 2001 stock auto, 3.54 gears. Have towed a 5r combo over 50,000 miles that weighs 12,000#.  Total combo 17,900#. Trans will heat in 2nd . I just drop to 1st. At 27mph and 2600rpm nothing heats. Take your time and smell the roses.