So I have both the upper and lower ball joint removed, I did the lower first then the upper. Is there a specific order I need to install them? When I did them on my old hemi I seem to remember my mechanic buddy telling me to install the upper ball joint first and then the lower so the press won't get in the way of anything?

 

Upper then lower out. Lower then upper in. But it could depend on how you press them in. The bolt on my press goes through the top hole when pressing in the lower.

Thanks mopartech, I think I did the exact opposite of what you said haha, but I think it depends and how you press them. Either way it worked just fine, ball joints are in. They pressed in a lot easier than they pressed out.

Yea I did the same thing the lower joint first because of the press rod sticking up.

i broke multiple tools and a press doing mine

What brand of ball joint did you use and are you happy with them at the moment.

I have new ones in my truck and they are tight.

They have been in the truck for about 10 K and have not loosened up.

They were in the truck when I got it.

Chris 

I installed the Moog problem solver components and so far so good....

Dana spicer, but I'm avoiding driving it this winter. No more salt for this old girl, I want to keep her for a long time.

 

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2077_spicer_708047_ball_joint_set_for_2000_and_newer_dodge_ram_25.html#photo

Edited December 22, 201410 yr by CTcummins24V

Dana Spicer.

 

I  have had TERRIBLE luck with Moog as of late.  I won't buy anything of theirs anymore. 

Dana spicer, but I'm avoiding driving it this winter. No more salt for this old girl, I want to keep her for a long time.

 

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2077_spicer_708047_ball_joint_set_for_2000_and_newer_dodge_ram_25.html#photo

Can you grease lower joint?

No, just the upper. But those sealed ball joints are supposed to last the longest, like spicer sealed u-joints. There's many theories out, sealed vs greasable, I'll take my chances with oem sealed units. Both my front drivehsafts have spicer sealed u-joints, they appear to be the originals with 223,000 on the clock. My old shop recommended them, that's what they used when the balanced and replaced the joints and on my 2 piece rear shaft.

i think i have the moog uppers and greasable lowers, no issues with them after bout 10k+

No, just the upper. But those sealed ball joints are supposed to last the longest, like spicer sealed u-joints. There's many theories out, sealed vs greasable, I'll take my chances with oem sealed units. Both my front drivehsafts have spicer sealed u-joints, they appear to be the originals with 223,000 on the clock. My old shop recommended them, that's what they used when the balanced and replaced the joints and on my 2 piece rear shaft.

I am going to be changing mine soon, but am a little old school and prefer to grease joints, so I like greaseable when replacing.

When I did my hemi I used moog greasble, but I only put about 20k on them, no issues in that mileage.

I installed the Moog problem solver components and so far so good....

exactly  what  'problem'  are they  solving?    a wallowed out   parent bore?   Curious..  I  am  going to do the  3500's   soon.

 

I did learn  the   94-99  ram's   used  a little different  dana 60,  as  compared to the   2000-2002's.      The early Dana   60's   ball joints  shared  the weight  equally.   the newer  axle's lower  ball joint  hold  100%

No, just the upper. But those sealed ball joints are supposed to last the longest, like spicer sealed u-joints. There's many theories out, sealed vs greasable, I'll take my chances with oem sealed units. Both my front drivehsafts have spicer sealed u-joints, they appear to be the originals with 223,000 on the clock. My old shop recommended them, that's what they used when the balanced and replaced the joints and on my 2 piece rear shaft.

Me too,   It's hard not to  'like' the  grease zerk,   but dang it,  the seals  on the sealed  components  are  far better to start with!     

 

I  think if  the  component is   ALWAYS  in  the dirt,  submerged in water etc......   and     the operator   religiously   greases,  then  the zerk is  the way to go...

 

as far as  the  originals...  isn't is amazing?    I've never  had   any  cross, or  ball joint  last near as long as the originals... no matter the   'grade',  or   mode of lube!

I have heard a lot of "things" about the problem solver series.   Some say the ball joint is phyically larger so as it fights tight in old worn out spindles/ holders.  I have heard they are cheaper to solve the money problem.  Who knows what is true or not.

I'm getting a bit pist off, just finished bumper, springs, shock, rebuilt alternator, starter, a bunch of little stuff too. So after reading this thread I decided to check my ball joints and sure enough I can put pry bar under tire with it jacked up and move upper and lower up and down about 3/16 or so it's at least an 1/8 for sure. Did a quick search just to find out the only ones are out there are moog and spicer. I can get moog at parts store with lifetime warranty, and change them every so often or get spicer with no warranty and change them a bit less often. But if you keep changing moog in and out wouldn't that make the hole wear out faster. (no dirty thinking) if Mike reads this, Have you changed your ball joint yet at your 240k mark yet? If not, I'm going with spicers i think.

well,   I got the  passenger side  joints  in tonight.    Moog problem solvers.     They actually   pressed in  a  tad  easier than  removing the old.    I couldn't tell you if it  was  because  of  the  slight rust and  dryness of the old joint... or   the  clean hole and light oil  on the new joint       The  lower moogs  are   knurled.     

Even though  they  went in a little easier,   I  am  satisfied  they are   WELL  PLANTED! 

 

I had to use  a  4 foot  cheater pipe  on the  press  to remove them..  and  still had  to pull like  an  ape  to  get them  moving.    Putting  back in   was   just  the  18 inch  breaker  pulling   maybe  100 lbs.

 

 

Mikes  truck  is  coming up on  240k  on the  second  set?         Mine  is  exactly  those   same miles..  and   is  getting  it's  balls     changed  first time   

Upper then lower out. Lower then upper in. But it could depend on how you press them in. The bolt on my press goes through the top hole when pressing in the lower.

 

 

Thanks mopartech, I think I did the exact opposite of what you said haha, but I think it depends and how you press them. Either way it worked just fine, ball joints are in. They pressed in a lot easier than they pressed out.

after I  got the knuckle off,  I just  torched off the  studs,  and  pressed  out the   top first,  then the bottom.   I had the force screw  pointed  up  on the top,  and  pointed down on the lower.    Same  with   re install.  

Putting the   force screw  through the   top  hole  is  way too  mis aligned...  no way should  you try to  press anything  with that much  mis alignment,  and  expect  a nice-  smooth- non - galled-  round  hole  later.

I don't understand Spicers logic on making the uppers greasable but not the lowers. On the 00+ Dana 60's, the lower joint supports the entire weight of the front end while the upper is more or less there to hold alignment... My originals only lasted 70k before the lowers were toast so I elected not to go back to them.

 

If mine go bad again, I'll most likely go with the Dynatrac Pro Steers. A bit pricey but they are fully rebuildable joints.