Well I've made it home for the summer and it's time to start tearing this thing apart. I will begin tomorrow, but yesterday I took it to the dyno. Laid down 503 / 1215. I was very pleased with the numbers, but the knocking is getting worse to it's time to take it apart.

 

Even with good/clean coolant and proper maintenance the pressure at the back of the block can be excessive at 4K rpms. 

Are you going to plumb a small radiator off the back of the block or is it more for easy access to the rear when changing coolant? What kind of Horse Power do you plan on having with this rebuild? Did you have to beef up your 5 Speed to handle the extra power? I hope you record what it sounds like for everyone to hear.

Are you going to plumb a small radiator off the back of the block or is it more for easy access to the rear when changing coolant? What kind of Horse Power do you plan on having with this rebuild? Did you have to beef up your 5 Speed to handle the extra power? I hope you record what it sounds like for everyone to hear.

I will end up putting on a coolant bypass. It will run from the back of the head through a thermostat or pressure relief then into the top of the existing thermostat housing.

 

Power will probably stay right about the same as it was before 500hp 1215ft-lbs of torque until I can afford a clutch and input shaft. Then it will get twins and larger injectors.

 

When I'm out of school I'll buy a rebuilt trans with hardened gears, fully splined and cryoed main shaft, cryoed 1 3/8" input shaft and a south bend dual disc clutch. That should handle everything a VP can put out.

 

I actually plan on straight piping it as long as the drone in the cab isn't bad! Videos will be up when it is back together though.

I will end up putting on a coolant bypass. It will run from the back of the head through a thermostat or pressure relief then into the top of the existing thermostat housing.

 

Power will probably stay right about the same as it was before 500hp 1215ft-lbs of torque until I can afford a clutch and input shaft. Then it will get twins and larger injectors.

 

When I'm out of school I'll buy a rebuilt trans with hardened gears, fully splined and cryoed main shaft, cryoed 1 3/8" input shaft and a south bend dual disc clutch. That should handle everything a VP can put out.

 

I actually plan on straight piping it as long as the drone in the cab isn't bad! Videos will be up when it is back together though.

It will be one bad Cummins. I hope it all turns out great for you, I don't even know you and I'm already proud of what you have accomplished. It's a pleasure to read all that you have documented and shared with the Forum Members and I am certain that this will not be the last big post from you...Twin Turbos and Injectors will make another great post. God Bless.

Since the crank is coming out are you having it and the pistons/rods balanced?

Even with good/clean coolant and proper maintenance the pressure at the back of the block can be excessive at 4K rpms. 

 

I was talking rotting the freeze plug (corrosive failure) not racing and blowing the freeze plug (pressure failure) there is a small difference in worlds. Where most daily drivers don't see those kind of RPM's where some one that is a weekend racer might.

Since the crank is coming out are you having it and the pistons/rods balanced?

No....    I think I'm going to be 5k+ deep in this motor already. I would love to go all out but honestly it isn't necessary on a VP powered truck that can't turn crazy RPMs. Plus the fluidampr should keep it pretty smooth!

Agree that it's not necessacry... but it sure is nice 

It is fairly cheap and easy to weight match the piston rod assemblies, check with your machinist you might be surprised. It isn't all about high rpms as it is just smoothing out overall operations and harmonics of the engine as a whole under normal conditions as well.

I would have to find my bill but I think it was under $400 for the full balance job. 

 

Part of the 4200 rpm 15 second overspeed limit on the ISB is valve springs/pushrods and part of it is OEM balance tolerances. 

and much more to come!

 

Fluidampr

 

 

Studs

 

Cam gear retainer

 

and much more to come!

 

Fluidampr

 

THE NAME SAYS 'FLUID' HOW??????

 

I'M GLAD YOUR POSTING ALL THIS! THANKS! i feel like i should help pay...............................but this way you dont need to share your toys when your done.....     THANKS again!

 

 

Do some reading on them! It's very interesting how they work to keep the harmonic vibrations out of the engine. 

 

If you would like to pay I do accept donations! as always, you're welcome!

Picked up the block, head, and rebuild kit. Also the rest of the goodies came in the mail! Pictures to come tomorrow.

 

I think the engine is going to look good!

That's pretty...

Thanks!

I've got a few things left to buy: Starter contacts & plunger (Larry B's) 12v tappet cover (ebay), Breather catch can (VMS racing), oil cap(War Eagle found me a good one), vacuum pump seals (?????), and PS pump (warranty).

 

Anyone know the best place to buy vacuum pump seals??

Thanks!

I've got a few things left to buy: Starter contacts & plunger (Larry B's) 12v tappet cover (ebay), Breather catch can (VMS racing), oil cap(War Eagle found me a good one), vacuum pump seals (?????), and PS pump (warranty).

 

Anyone know the best place to buy vacuum pump seals??

 

YOU Talking about the seal between vacuum pump and P/S pump????

 

if so do a search , i think the guys name was gould or GOULDS Cummins seal fix

 

Here you go:     http://www.fixinrams.com/

 

tried to post link, but it is  http://www.fixinrams.com

Edited June 22, 20159 yr by rburks

Thanks!

I've got a few things left to buy: Starter contacts & plunger (Larry B's) 12v tappet cover (ebay), Breather catch can (VMS racing), oil cap(War Eagle found me a good one), vacuum pump seals (?????), and PS pump (warranty).

 

Anyone know the best place to buy vacuum pump seals??

 

 

Seals are only about 10 bucks from Cummins.

Last time I ordered a vacuum pump rebuild it was $13 buck at Cummins.

 

Just remember the 12V tappet cover will not have the bracket for the ECM to hang.

 

Catch Can for crankcase vent? I would skip that personally. 12V tappet covers don't really slobber much at all. Even my 24V crankcase tube barely slobbers.

Last time I ordered a vacuum pump rebuild it was $13 buck at Cummins.

 

Just remember the 12V tappet cover will not have the bracket for the ECM to hang.

 

Catch Can for crankcase vent? I would skip that personally. 12V tappet covers don't really slobber much at all. Even my 24V crankcase tube barely slobbers.

Thank you.

 

My tappet cover never had any brackets?? It just had bolts with long heads that were threaded. I'll look into it though.

 

I plan to keep my front crankcase breather and run it into a catch can. This motor is built for high HP so it's going to have a bit more blowby. I'd like to have two breathers on it. 

 

Here are the parts I've gotten! Piston cooling jets didn't show up, and 2 tappets were lost in shipping so I'm waiting on two more. 

Springs: 104# and made for a high lift cam.

 

ARP rod bolts

 

Pushrods: 3/8 x 0.095 chromoly

 

Tappets

 

Oil pump

 

Oil Cooler

 

Transmission bearings, seals, and syncros

Now for the pistons! As you can see the second compression ring on the marine pistons sits a lot higher. It's close to the first ring, and there is steel reinforcement on all faces of the compression rings. The stock ones don't have that. 

It appears as if the bowl is slightly larger but I'll have to mic them to see. The ceramic coating on the marine pistons is obvious as well. 

 

Stock

 

Marine

 

Bowls

 

 

Marked for the correct hole.