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Figured I would start my own thread and add pics of myself hauling things rather than cluttering up someone elses thread.MIL wants to sell her 1994 S10 Blazer 4.3 multi port auto with 267k miles on it and has been parked for over 2 years, throw new battery in it and still no start, add fresh gass check spark both good, no fuel so it got hand winched onto the trailer to come home with me for a fuel pump and clean up to sell for her."update" got the fuel pump in and she sprang to life, warmed it up and the muffler came apart inside :banghead:Rear rig is a 1990 S10 2.5 5 spd 160k miles my brother in law donated to me, very rusty but engine and tranny are strong runners so home it comes with me as a beater pickup after I replace the valve cover gasket and fix the temp sensor.Not bad for a few hours work.Next project is to build side boards for the trailer to haul scrap off her farm to clean up and then.................................... To load it up with fire wood!!!!!

Almost sounds like you are having the same problem I had a while back, no power and after 1/4 throttle or so the pedal was almost like it hit a wall, for me it turned out that my AFC foot wasn't moving at all. I just pulled the AFC foot out and have been running like that ever since, someday I imagine I'll fix my AFC but where my truck is now I like it better without it. Also on a side not I just noticed the AFC definition in the forum software is off, AFC actually stands for aneroid fuel control.

The benefit to a deep cycle battery is actually being able to draw it down farther without killing it. I would recommend installing one in the bed for a trailer or to use instead of the truck batteries when using electronics. Install a relay that shuts off when the truck is not running so the battery will charge when the truck is running but not drawing on the truck batteries when it is not on/in the run position.

Yes, it's all about tongue weight (hitch weight). When I worked for a boat / trailer dealer, on of my jobs was to set up trailers for the boat (load). Once the boat was positioned, we'd put a scale under the tongue. If the weight was off, we'd loosen the U bolts & move the axle assemblies forward & backward. Now, with other trailers, the axles are pretty much not moveable but the loads are... With a stock trailer, I had trouble with a light tongue weight with 2 horses in the rear. I added weight to the front. With camping gear in the front, I didn't need the ballast weight. My present toy hauler the axles are quite a bit closer to the rear... 1/3 - 2/3. I think I am over the cap of the weight distributing hitch bars because my 300# mobility scooter is less than the weight of 3 ATVs that there is tie downs for... plus internal cabinetry has been gutted from the rear. So I am tongue heavy. I don't really like WD hitches. I we have added ballast to the rear, re-arranged the load... need more. Now, the amount of tongue weight your truck can handle depends on the tow vehicle... so trailer mfg really don't know what will be used. You might not need the WD hitch bars with a real truck to tow with... or if you pack differently.

No need for the slider since duallies are long beds. The only thing I found hard to reach was getting the nuts on the bolts by the fuel tank. So now I just weld the brackets on.

I trust my mechanic or I would not go there... and if they f*ck it up OR screw me over... all they'll see is my taillights as I move on. One shop... screwed up my installed radar system's rear sensor when they fixed my heater core... undoubtably yanked the wires. Same shop kept charging me for a front brake job & missed the warped rear disc. BYE! A different shop did head gaskets on wife's Subaru (known for this)... when the job failed they claimed a cracked head & wanted me to pay to tear it down. Wife gave the car to her sister whose finance' runs an auto machine shop in Stetson, Maine. Trailered the car up there & had his guys tear it down. Head was warped & not planed which we'd been charged for. BYE! I did my own front brakes on the Cirrus, last time. pretty easy job.

I would of kept the old phenolic pistons over the steel ones. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so as brake fluid ages it collects water and what does water do to steel? Rust it out... They don't swell. What happens is the heat transferred to pistons now cakes the brake fluid up on the pistons over time. The phenolic pistons don't ever change size per say but the caked up brake fluid does occur.