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UDC Pro 0.0.0.12 was released last Wednesday and I've been re-tuneing my truck. I did my last tune revision at the end of last years tow season and have been very very please with how it preforms so I really have done too much with the big tables, timing, rail pressure, and duration. I started off looking at the fuel limiters, of which there are many. Since my truck is used as a towing/hunting/camping truck I am not going crazy with the fuel. I was able to improve spooling and mid rpm fueling but utilizes the stock limiters to have a smoke free experience. I can now put my foot on the floor at 1500 rpms and not have any black out the tail pipe, yet it still lights the turbo and takes off as fast as before. After a few drives it feels like I have all my power thou I won't know until I hook up the trailer and head into the hills. Since my duration table hasn't changed and my timing is the same it should be the same... just depends on how the limiters are setup. Then it was time to address the pilot injection event. I had already completely killed the post even in my first tune. The pilot on the 04.5-07 and the 03-04 is HUGELY different. The DEMO and licensed version of UDC Pro have all the stock files from 03-16 in it which makes comparing easy. The 03-04 uses a smaller pilot with less timing and even shuts it off at higher rpms and loads. Before even looking at the 03-04 stock tunes my intent was to kill it above 2400 rpms from 0%-100% and above 2200 rpms from around 40%-100% load. Because I have the 03-04 piston I studied the stock stuff for 03-04 pretty hard and it gave me about an 80% solution. I have setup my pilot to be much, much, smaller and not have the huge timing advance that the 04.5-07 did, as much as 57° ahead of the main event! WOT at 2900 rpms the pilot was firing about 58° BTDC! The 03-04 only uses about 4-5mm3 per pilot shot while the 04.5-07 uses up to 15mm3. I was able to cut my pilot WAY down and bring the timing back a bit on it too, as well as drop it at the rpms I mentioned above. The transition from pilot to no pilot is very smooth and quiet, and the reduced pilot in normal driving rpms is an improvement as well. I have noticed my load is a little higher at idle now but I am guessing that's from a smaller pilot and thus a bigger main event. It's also easy to tell there was a lot more emissions restraints on the 04.5-07 engines than the 03-04. The 03-04 only has 2 altitude adjust tables while the 04.5-07 has 5! Aparantly the EPA was worried about emissions while towing at 18K feet... 90% of owners will only ever operate in tables 0 and 1 and the rest will likely never get to 3-4. Tables 0 and 1 are both for the same elevation, up to around 10K feet, but have different tables and triggers based on intake air temp. This is handy as you can mess with timing with a very high IAT. The tables start to blend at 90° and fully into table 1 at 180°. I was also able to drop my CC engage speed to 20! I have always hated the 35mph minimum from Dodge. As for licensing dongles only 1 is needed per tuner, not per VIN. So if you have a MAIN or VIN dongle you can get a Pro tune from a tuner with no additional dongles. If you want to do Pro yourself you will need a Pro license dongle. So there it is in a nutshell. There is also some real time tuning capabilities that I haven't messed with yet, but plan to purchase the hardware to do so shortly.

03-07 cr truck are done...... we are next. pretty curious.

Here's my Mother's Day message to all of you!

The first listing for superduty wheels won't fit, that generation has a different lug spacing. The only Ford wheels that fit are pre 97 I believe. The second set should fit. The 8x6.5" he's referencing is 8 lug with a 6.5" lug stud spacing.

FWIW; I'm back running WallyWorld SuperTech 15W40 dino. My truck is garage kept though. 238,000+ mile regards.

The first and second set are not the Alcoas. Stay with 95-97 8 lug ford rims. that is the only years for forged wheels with the good metallurgy. The process for a forged wheel is so expensive Ford quit doing it after 97. You can still buy them new for $280 ea. wheel but many folks don't know what they are so usually around 200 bucks on Craiglist. I bought 3 sets ranging from 75- 200 for a set of 4.

Actually you DO... Amsoil is a group IV base stock and Valvoline, Rotella, and Supertech are all group III base stocks. So yes it is VERY obvious if you do the research. Who should read and comprehend? Try a little education, it may help. Really!! Come on, let's at least compare fruit to fruit. Apples to apples is damn near impossible on this forum but fruit to fruit should at least be in the ball park. Please explain to me how you can compare OTR 900 cubic engines with 40-50qt sumps to the ISB? Look at horsepower:cubic inch, oil capacity:cubic inch, rpm band, and usage. They burn diesel and use the same spec oil but that's about where the servicing commonalities stop. Surely you have to know this, which means your throwing crap at the wall and hoping something will stick. It's just like trying to compare an OEM 480hp QSB Marine engine to a 325hp ISB in a pickup. The applications are so different that it's not really possible, even thou many of the parts are the same. As for the 650 hp ISB's those guys aren't ever making 650hp long enough to get the oil heat soaked. Most towing applications use about 375-450 at the most. 450 hp has long been considered the limit of the cooling and oiling system in these trucks. They don't have the ability to keep 650hp cooled and lubed on a sustained basis with OEM sumps and coolers. There have been some ISB's run high hp on the salt flats for land speed records and they have MASSIVE cooling systems for a reason. So again lets keep it fruit to fruit. They also help with a load applied. There is a visual difference in a stand alone oil pressure gauge when towing with synthetics. The dino doesn't ever get close to the minimum pressure; however, the synthetic holds pressure better. That means it handles the heat better, which is what we want in a 450 hp application that has 359 cubic inches and only 12 quarts of oil. It's not to say that dino doesn't work for most users but synthetic can do it better at the extremes. Sorry for all the edit's... the quote feature is driving me nuts the last few days.

Just throwing this out there for those who do not know that all new brake pads must be "Burnished" or worn in for ultimate brake performance. Coming from the heavy mining, construction and ag equipment side of the world this is a common "Must Do" procedure on all dry brake pads be it drum or disc but you all most likely do not know that it should be done on ALL vehicles with drum or disc brakes. There are different ways of doing it but all have the same results. rather than typing it out I will just post up a couple different procedures. Enjoy and hopefully you all learned something new and hopefully it will lead to safer braking for everyones sake. If one looks it up there are tons of videos and info on it. I see posts of weak brakes and other brake issues but never see this brought up. Coming from the heavy equipment side of the world failing to do this can lead to decreased braking efficiency up to and over 30-40% and I have seen it many many times on scrapers. http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/Brake%20Pad%20and%20Shoe%20Break-In%20Procedure.pdf http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/tech-tip-brake-burnishing-procedures-for-new-brake-pads-or-shoes/ At Bendix, we highly recommend that new pads and shoes be broken in properly. After every brake job the technician should first confirm that he has a good brake pedal by gently stroking the pedal to move the wheel cylinders and caliper pistons back out to the normal position. After confirming a good pedal, the follow burnish procedure should be used during the test drive: 30/30/30 Burnish Procedure • Perform 30 stops from 30 miles per hour with a 30-second cooling interval between stops. These stops will be performed at a decelerating rate of 12 feet per second or less. This means that it should be a gentle easy stop. • The 30/30/30 Burnish Procedure beds the pads and shoes into the rotor and drums. It also deposits the necessary friction transfer to the rotors and drums for optimum brake performance. • Following this procedure also assures that your customer will have excellent brake performance from the first time he or she drives the car after brake service has been performed. You should not depend on your customer to break in the brake job. The only way to assure that it is done correctly is to incorporate it into your brake job test drive. Remember, proper burnishing assures a long lasting, high performing, noise free brake job! Courtesy of Bendix by Honeywell. For more information and brake tips, visit www.bendixbrakes.com.

Let the flaming begin. Scams oil(amsoil) doesn't make anything. (they never have) There is nothing that makes their oil better than the next. Amsoil BUYS there base stock from company's like Ashland. you know, the folks who own/make Valvoline. They have no refining capabilities. They buy base stock and additives from the same place everyone else does, then blend them together and package it up. Price doesn't equate to quality nor does being warped up in the American flag make it better than any other oil. There advertising is a lot of smoke and mirrors. I run dino oil. ps There is no prof your engine will last longer using synthetic over dino oil.

Isn't a 50wt a LOT thinner oil? Doesn't seem like an improvement in a transmission... but that's my 0.02. Maybe I am missing something. IIRC guys use the Delvac 50 in the G56 to get an oil that is between the standard GL-4 in the NV4500 and the ATF from the factory. It probably wont hurt anything, but seems odd at an initial glance. I never worried about mail order on things you have to replace every 50K miles, or more... just seems like an excuse and nothing more. Besides I could have gotten you the amsoil 5 gallon pail for $20 less to your door.. tax and shipping included. So which oil is the expensive one? At least you have enough oil for another 200K miles :-)