Mopar1973Man

I added my tidbit again... Because as for BC post is rather general and doesn't give important information... The only number he gives is the 5 PSI number... So what I can place my truck on a dyno and product max power at 5 PSI... But there is nothing said about max lifespan... Remember if he told the truth about that then he'd be out of a job...

In the same breathe he says "5 PSI is enough", but Bosch turns around and says " That diaphram damage is caused from low fuel pressure". Then your 5 PSI buddy mentions that if there is a "diaphram rupture" no one will warranty the pump!So is it worth the risk? (Personally No.)Has our 5 PSI buddy done any long testing of this? 100K, 200K, or 500K miles? (None documented as of yet!)

Sound like your lift pump is getting weak... Minimum lift pump ressure is 10 PSI... I'm going to garther your running stock fuel lines yet so I would suggest you think about a Big Line Kit From Vulcan Performance. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm

From what I've learn from the synthetic guys is that the synthetic oil tend to clean scrub away the parafin wax sludge build up and this causes the leaks to occur typical at a gasket or seal. So basically time to start replacing gaskets where there are leaks occuring. If you switch back to petroluem you might find the leak disappears over time...As for personal experience... I don't have any to speak off so Duluth Diesel or Crow Synthetic will have to speak up...

[ATTACH]516[/ATTACH]Check and see if the plastic hub falls out..Then you might talk to Racer Dan he's got a re-worked rotor that fits directly into the stock motor but doesn't have the plastic hub. Bit pricey but it a solid fix...

I was never very fond of the stock air filter box. The fact is the sealing abiliity of the box is poor at best. I seen several includding miy own leak dirt past the filter.As for the filter minder it does work well and is very sensitive to vacuum. But as for using a BHAF I've gone a long ways now without a need to change filters... 6 years now and 111K miles and still going... No dust in the tube, no movement of the filter minder, no problems...

Depends if I drive the highways to and from towns or go up in the mountain gather firewood... When on the pavement doing long haul is when I hit 20-21 but when I'm on the dirt road I can just forget about it... Climbing 25 miles from 1,800 feet elevation to 7,500 or 9,900 max elevation tends to eat fuel.... I don't see much over about 6-8 MPG on the SG II display... (Ugh!)

How about like this... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/crankcase-vent.htm

Hmmm... Geez I feel old listen to you too ramble on... October 26, 1970... Heading for 40!But I still play like a kid most days...

I'll be adding this to my download library very soon... Thanks for the good find...

Well you could disable the on board controller and add a new controller card...

Glad to hear you got the backhoe working again...But sorry to hear your MS is getting you down... I wished I lived closer to ya... I be more than willing to plow and do you dirty work for ya. But alas I'm 3,000 miles away from you...Come one gang I know some people got to live near Russ...

Ahha! go to Vulcan Performance... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/182.htm Got everything you need!

After taking a small peek at that that thread I was quite surprised the MOD's and ADIMN's didn't jump on them for this... Wow! I know is a common mistake to not fill the fuel filter housing after a filter change... But doesn't mean to attack the the other members... I know the amount of time I've corrected forum myths and lore. But I've normally kept a level head and continued to help people even though in the back of my mind I'm saying "Geez you dummy!"... But I stay perfessional and help them over come there problems with there truck...

Mine was nearly $825 for SB Con OFE... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/sbc/sbc.htm Nice part is it sticks for everything I can throw at it... As for Smoke switches you'll find out that when the switch is flipped that the VP44 timing is completely retarded at this point this is why it dog along really well blowing large clouds of black smoke. You got to remember that diesel runs on Autoignition temperatures so the more boost pressure applied the less timing required to ignite the fuel mixture so since you foolering for smoke then the ECM see full boost so giving full retard to the VP44... But the thing is I don't know if that Edge EZ of your will do it? I would try pulling the EZ Edge MAP sensor lead leaving the ECM lead hooked up and see if the error code is produced or fooling begins... If fooling begins then you could follow my write up on how to build one. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/smoke-switch/smoke-switch.htm Personally I just resently pulled mine because the switch failed... (stuck on the fooling). But its true if you build for power the smoke will come... Now aftrer getting RV275 injectors I got to be careful because it will dump somer serious big black clouds if I jump on it...

Well that explains why the large pressure loss because of the DDRP volume limits plus the volume limits of the fuel lines and banjos. Still only seeing about 2 PSI fall from 17 @ idle and 15 @ WOT...So this points out the limitation of the plumbing and pump...

I would love to see that... I wonder if a bit of the ECM have to relearn too. Kind of like predicting you driving habits but you flashed a new program and now its got to re-learn... (Wild idea and guess)

Here is what I got... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/holland-court-diesel-performance/236205-he-still-here.html#post2531834

Ahhh... Yeah that does hang few people including myself... (D'Oh!)

I thought the same thing too... Economy mode was strock fuel and heavy timing... Maybe I'm wrong...

Hmmm... sound like a wild idea to try... Bottle jack some chain... The POP! its out eh?I'm not affraid of creating tools for a job either...

Ok... so what was the problem??? I'd love to hear it?

Now if your scratch the mating faces of the high pressure tube and the connector tube it will leak too...

Correct but the network is right there too...

Well thats a good sign... But is the hard starting still there?