Mopar1973Man

Might be true but remember the stock stereo also ties into the CCD Network too... I love the simplicity of a aftermarket radio because it doesn't require any of the Dodge stuff just power and a speaker or two... Something you didn't know did you?

Yeah I do but never bothered to change it... (stock settings) I love stupid animals... I own a Doberman pincher and he does weird and strange things but he protects the house and the truck wonderfully. But now a cat they get into everything. Piss and crap in the house in a box (some unlucky people have it worse). Then rarely have I seen a trained cat, that actually response to commands...

Go here... (vista 64 Bit) http://www.nvidia.com/object/winvista_x64_96.85_2.html

:agree: At 14 PSI the overflow valve is just cracking open so you can bump up to a max of 20 PSI and get a bit of cooling flow now...

Like this too... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-replacement.html

P1688 is a internal failure of the vP44... Sorry! Good question? Also do you have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab? :confused:

Should of requested for the other mount for shortbed durting order and you'll end up with my style of mount... But you did good (actually better) because your mount is stronger than the PureFlow mount...

I'm currently using a Kenwood MP3 player in my truck. Purchased the adapter kit for the wiring and plugged it right in. (Little soldier and wire work but easy). Still running stock speakers but I'm not into big boom. But I've got a wide range of music to listen to. I've currently got over 20 GB worth of music on my hard drive ranging from 50's to current pop music to country to even heavy metal and other types... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/kenwood/kenwood.htm

Right on... Geez you had to make a bracket... Mine came with that bracket... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=5

Good suggestion with CR trucks... Take a drop of oil and place it on a piece of white paper and let it sit awhile. If a clear ring forms around the oil drop then there is fuel in the oil.

Here you go gang... [ame= Probably the Funniest Cat Video You'll Ever See[/ame]

Now what to do about the boost leak you create??? :confused:

Now here is the goofy part of the design... Which direction does the heat go? Up of course right into the intake elbow away from the engine. So basically your heating a pool of air to suck into the engine at start time. Its is why 2 key cycles are needed for 0*F and colder. Need to heat up that alminum elbow a bit... Now during a running engine I imagine the numbers would greatly differ, being cold air is drawn across those grid heaters... But thanks for the tidbit of information... I'm sure no one else has that on there forum...:thumbsup:

Only after they clear 1 million miles... http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/0907dp_2001_dodge_ram_3500/index.html

Sounds like the grid heaters are cycling in and out which is typical for cold weather operation. But the key trick will work. Turn the key ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON without starting within 5 seconds and the Odometer will display the error codes of both the ECm and PCM. As for reseting codes you'll need a code reader of some sort...

Usually cost a shop hour... But here is the TSB. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm

The random lock/unlock is cause by... [*]PCM flash issue (TSB) [*]Alternator noise (bad diodes) [*]APPS sensor [*]Bad ground What funny is these truck go years and years without a issue then BAM one morning all hell breaks lose and people start modifing the truck trying to fix the problem. If you relize the truck ran prefect at one time and there is a cause its just a matter of finding it. Like alternator noise you could pull the alternator fuse to verify. APPS sensor if you had a live data tool to watch the APPS sensor for wrong values.

Well the P1689 code is cause from the fuel pump relay... The P0234 and P0236 are MAP sensor codes. The Banks otto mind might be the cause of the errors if you disconnect in and reset the codes and they remaain off the you know you found it...

Come on W&F you got to admit that artwork was really convincing...

If the CEL light is on its because there is a physical error or problem and yes its in limp mode if the light is on... So what error codes do you have? :confused:

Raptor comes with full hardware, plumbing, etc... It doesn't require a 1/2" drawstraw though... Stock sender is good enough for 100 GPH.

As in reset error codes? :confused: If so just use a code reader and erase the codes... Pulling the battery cables will erase the APPS sensor calibration but nothing more...

Dan... Now you can see why the AirDog 100/150 or the FASS 100/150 is popular now... [*]Lifetime warranty [*]Pre-filter and water separator before the pump. [*]2-3 micron filter after the pump [*]All new hardware (fitting and brackets for relocation) [*]All new 1/2" ID hose to replace all fuel line from tank to VP44 So now start adding up the part and kits and I bet you're going to come really close to the same price. But the other thing is the pump will not have a lifetime warranty... So if you do a AirTex pump, Vulcan Big Line, a good pre-filter your weakest link will be the AirTex...

I rarely even hear the fan lock up unless i'm hauling heavy loads of firewood and heading up hill... But the funny part is yes the electric fan create no load for the time there off and so does the stock clutch fan (virtually minor loading) but once the both lock up or come on the load is the same basically because yes the electric fans are not tie direct to the crank but the load is placed on the alternator... Because like in the winter time with my winter front on I can take a old hose and stop the fan. It basically free wheeling in the clutch...

Got it here... http://www.danininc.com/optix/gauge/307413.htm The colored band was photoshop'ed oon that pic...