Mopar1973Man

Exactly that... Go to Riggins, ID and enjoy nice weather like today at barely 50*F and then head to McCall, ID and go snowmobiling or skiing...

Here is a map of where I live... Now Riggins, ID is about 1,800 Ft, Pollock is about 2,000 Fr, Home is 2,800 feet, New Meadows, ID is 4,000 and then McCall, ID is right at 5,100... So just going to town (depending on which direction from here could be -20*F (New Meadows) to +20*F (Riggins)

That's if you still got that system hooked up... But I'm not using the stock pickup assembly any longer... But your right the stock pickup assembly does have a screen on it that helps protect the stock lift pump from damage. But the problem with the stock pickup assembly is that the trash remains in the tank to re plug the pickup assembly everytime. Some people have cut out the screen and put in a external filter so when debris is bad they can replace a filter and not have to drop the tank and clean the debris...

Well as for shift points you could look into your line pressures and be sure you getting enough (updated valve body). Then re-do your band adjustment... Head over to the download tab and grab a book there is good information on trans stuff there... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=41 I've got another book to upload so hang around in time I'll get it in...

Typically the return line is hooked to the filler neck of the fuel tank...

Really good clutch from what I heard and rather good priced for economy reasons... But as for beyond that... I hope one of the vendors hops in and has more information on them...

Actually a good question... If pre loading a stock filter housing its best to have the filter in place to be sure no trash enters the system... As for the oil filter you must be careful because anything that enter the center hole goes directly to the bearings and oil jets...

All of us rejects should get together and unite with our knowledge and forums and share together... I sneak over to MWDC and check now and then on the 24V stuff but it seems rather slow at times...

Wow! What a mouthful! I know I really should key in on this but I got to agree with Live Oak about DTR... As for DTR that was that I started at years ago... I got up to 2000 some odd post and then began to build my web site static pages. I was warn once for having a business card present on my web site... Like Huh??? Well about this time I found CF.com and did more updating to the site during the winter and came back with more to share but when I sent a PM to one of the guys to show what I had... I was banned instantly! I was banned for spamming! Huh? But oh well there loss now... There group can remain in the dark...

I'm not much for the racing scene but I can give you this much... Most people use a mystery switch and lock up the TQ Conv right as it hits 2nd gear for better times in the quarter mile. I imagine the Trans temp gets rather hot unlock running the quarter mile..

Yeap... Flman is right... The extra 2 valves tend to drop the combustion temps rapidily like at -20*F my pyro might show barely 200*F idling with 190*F worth of coolant. Yes my probe is pre-turbo. But at around 400*F which happens to be the flash point of the tar build up you start to either collect it because the cylinder temps are to cold or burn it off because you got it hot enough. Like my wood stove is really simular to the Cummins if I choke the air down to about 400*F the tar starts to build up on the stove walls and pipe walls. Then once you heat it up you burn all the trash out. Maybe that why I got a pyro on my stove...

11,000+ posts of working CF.com and I finally gave up and figure its time to build my own...

Well to make you feel better talk to Cajflynn he's driving a 2001 Dodge with over 770K miles on it he's heading for the 1 million mark. Then there is Taz with over 620K miles on his 92 Dodge 12V. It's possible to do... Now as for your problem you could pull the grid heater lead on the battery. There should be 2 heavy gauge lead going from the driver side positive terminal down to the grid heater relays on the fender. Make sure you disconnect the grid heaters and they are non-functional. Now with a small burst of starting fluid in the air intake try starting the truck. If the truck starts to fire or starts then it for sure a fuel issue on the rail. Over pressure valve leaking, injector(s) leaking, etc. But basically there is a loss of rail pressure and the injectors can fire properly under 4,000 PSI...

Like here is a good way to look at stock fuel system compare to aftermarket that has fix the problem for the most part... There is the AirDog Fitting (1/2" ID) over the top of a Stock banjo (6mm ID) line...

Vald point... I say that there should be a pre-filter before the lift pump and then the filter after the lift pump... basically a full FASS or Airdog does this... But as for running any pump without a pre-filter is just asking for trouble...

There is another common problem is the debris in the fuel... Common problem is that debris will wear the injectors out to the point that they don't close. It very difficult to explain the design of the CR electronic injector but basically there is a check ball that seats to hold the needle closed when the seat is erroded by debris then the fuel leak past this seat causing the needle leak out the nozzle. I had this shown to me at a injection shop in Lewiston, Idaho and was shock at how little damage needs to occur before the injector fails... This is a common issues for CR engine and its suggested to upgrade to 2-3 micron filters to prevent this problem...

Hit on the nail... The problem is that BlueChip had worded his comment on his web page poorly and the masses are soaking it up as the fact... :banghead: I wasn't so lucky in the 2nd year of ownership of my truck the VP44 and lift pump both failed just before 50K miles...

I agree with Live Oak but there other thing to check is the fuel pump relay in the PDC under the hood... This relay is the supplying relay for the VP44 not the lift pump. So if this relay fails or the contact get poor the P1689 code will pop and usually the engine will die...

Hmmm... What the fuel pressure like? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fuel-system/fuel-system.htm I would check the batteries charge state and have the charging system checked...

Wild & free is right there is a vacuum line for disengage and one for engage... Also I think there is a electrical connector on the CAD unit to show the engage light...

I agree with Wild & Free...

Sorry he currently doesn't have a web site as of yet... But... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/member.php/10029-thracing Here the vendor listing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm

Thanks... That's what I'm after really... I've been through all the forum like CF.com and other and been beat down with all the race nuts quoting that line out of Blue Chips site... But what I realized there is 2 class of truck owners... 1. High performance / Racing/ Dyno Queen / Sled Puller2. Daily driver & Grocery getter.I found that there is way to much hype for the performance crowd and very little out there for the common Joe that drives to work and back home every day. Might drag a trailer on the weekends but basically the truck is light duty. Like myself my truck see a bit more than light duty and I skid logs, haul firewood, tow trailers full of firewood, etc. So getting back to the the BC comment is that has there been any kind of testing in this type of driving? (I can bet not!)So I think what we need to do is keep track of the fuel additives, fuel pump (names), fuel pressure, and lifespan of the VP44 and I bet you find there is a different amount of failure compared to the performance site are saying... :whistle:I know ol' JL Welding would jump on this signing the blues...:rolleyes:Another good question...."How do you get the most out of your VP44 lifespan?"

Got you covered... Talk to THRacing... He's a vendor in Canada that sells FASS products...

Little rough around the edge but... The point is valid... We all know the Vp44 injection pump runs without a lift pump. How many times do we tell people to install a fuel pressure gauge to find out they report 5 PSI down to 0 PSI. This far to common to see... Typically the owner changes the lift pump quickly with another stock pump hoping to fix it. But typically the pump starts spitting codes out like P0216 and others... The point here is at what pressure do you get the most life from a VP44? None of use are worried about the minimum pressure that creates MAX horsepower... Very few of us here even go out racing. But is the whole Blue Chip article there is nothing said about maximum lifespan, testing in regards to lifespan, extended dyno testing for lifespan. Just nothing...