Mopar1973Man

Take a 2x4 and rap in a rag and now place it over the piston. This will keep the piston from getting damaged. Now use compressed air to get them up. WARNING! If your using air pressure part(s) can fly and protect yourself properly. Watch your hand and fingers to make sure they don't get smashed! Once the pistons are out you can remove all the seals and wash the caliper with soap and water. Blow dry with compressed air to prevent rusting. Now since all the seal are removed. The piston should fall to the bottom of the bore without PUSHING! If not light sand the piston with light sandpaper (600 grit or higher) and then try again. The piston should not hang up at all. So now the pistons are tuned in for each bore re-assemble then and during the assembly process lube the pistons up with brake fluid before assemble. At this point the piston will take more effort to push into the bore. Seat them completely to the bottom. Now re-assmeble, mount, bleed, and seat the brake pads...

Yeap... 1. Shim the spring.2. Get a different spring.3. Or stretch it out (not suggested) You might notice the problem I see every year or so the plastic check ball wedges down into the coil of the spring reducing the pressure. Just pull the spring back out of the coil and re-install and usually you'll see a 1-2 PSI gain.

If you both are paying attention I was playing with a fire truck that day so since I've got a 1 1/2 Fire Hydrant in the yard I figured it would be a great to fill the Redneck swiming pool... I hate to say I never got in it being I know my water is cold (40-45*F) all year long.. Using a fire truck that got 1,000 GPM pump you can fill a truck bed in quite a hurry... As for pictures... I've got only 7,200+ pictures only taking 5 GB worth of space on my 25 GB hard drive partition...

Been there done that...http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=913 I must be truely a Redneck then...

Ok... Then I take back my last statement... So they do have a use but a very expensive option...

OMG!

Yeap I'm running the very same filter on my truck... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm (bottom of the page)

Yweah there was a local boy here that ran big semi-truck and had a receipe for racing diesel (which included gasoline). But to this day I'm just not to fond of the idea of mixing it in... I know there is a lot of things you can get away with but what are the long term effect of doing this over and over again to the fuel system?

If your just planing on mild upgrade say to about 400-450 HP a 95-100 GPH pump is fine... Beyond that your going to need at least 150-165 GPH pump. As for myself I went for the 150 GPH being that there was only a $20 buck increase for the extra 50 GPH but today most dealers sell both the 100 and 150 pumps for the same price... As for stock anything pump... The only thing there good for is tossing in the trash can... (Sorry to say that...)

Sorry JL... No Dumping allowed in the back country of Idaho... But if you don't want the truck bring it to me I'll take it off your hands free of charge of course.. (No dumping or waste fees!)

Yeah... x2

Very interesting... I'm also curious how they phase the CP3 gear... This is just about worth making a write up about... I'm sure there is a lot of people that never heard of this...

Cummins2K has a point the older style mechanical pump dont have the features of the newer electronic pumps. The older pumps like the VE and P7100 pumps were mechanical and couldn't really change timing and fueling parameters based on weather, temperature, altitude, etc. Then tuning the old school pumps were a pain sometimes where the newer electronic pump are all PnP (Plug N' Play). Just plugged in your tuner and go... As for the change over of converting a VP44 to mechanical I've never heard of it but I'm willing to check out what you find... It would be interesting...

Basically on a Dodge diesel is the HVAC system and the CAD axle control. (98.5 to 01) From (01.5 to 02) the only thing vacuum controls is the HVAC. The only optional accessory is exhaust brake which is vacuum driven. Like said above just use a test vacuum gauge and test you line under the truck checking source and switching abiliites of the 4WD vacuum switch.

Sorry... I haven't had TV in about 2 years now... No cable or satellite...

Well... Hmmm... I'm at 165K miles still running the stock brake pads from the Factory... I never done a brake job yet since the day I bought the truck brand new with only 20 miles on the odometer... I've got enough brake pad left to go all the way to 200K miles. But i know by the time I get there I'll need new rotors too. My solution is Exhaust brake. I do 90% of all my slowing and stopping with it. The only time I put my foot on the service brake is to stop or for a panic stop. Other than that I just use the exhaust brake and my throttle foot for slowing down. I've been knowing to load up with about 3 cords of firewood and come down from 7,500-8,000 feet elevation and never touch my brakes for over 30 miles of forestry roads at grades of 6-10%... Do it every year... Yes that's a 8x8x3 trailer... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199 Here is what my pads and rotors look like at 120K miles... (rears) My fronts loked just the same... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=893 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=892 There reason at this point I had debris built up inside the calper and jammed the piston causing shoe drag. So I disassembled the calipers and clean them out and never looked back. Still going with stock parts... ---------- Post added at 08:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 AM ---------- Actually the only thing I done is rebuilt my calipers back at 120K miles thats about it... The calipers were failing from the debris built up under the weather seal and inside the black sludge wasn't helping. So after giving them a bath and replacing a few wore parts (Cost all of $40 bucks from the dealer) like a few new seals and 1 piston I blew up! give me a bit I need t ofix a link issues I have my brake page back up...

Gasoline might be too rough for the seal and O-ring in the injection pump and injectors... Not to mention the big change in the burn characteristics...

NAPA stores... You find them typicall on the shelf with 35W bulbs... If you got a good guy behind the counter he'll swap out the bulbs for 100W and charge you the proper price for them... You might call my Napa Store and talk to Kevin (208)253-4234... He'll at least be able to tell you the part numbers and the prices so you can get them at your local store. Tell him that Mopar sent you!

I would go back a few years and look at the older Power Wagons and see if you find one of your liking... My old 72 had a chrome spoke (aftermarket) wheel very simple but classy... But the problem you got is the base of the steering shaft (I think)

Don't feel bad JL... I'm in the same boat too... Computer repairs are down not much going on... As for doing diesel work and repair that even slow too most people just don't have the money... I should get out the video camera and show you my backyard and the amount of work I completed to...

No kidding this is worth taking the tidbits of information here and re-writing my fuel pressure page... Of course i gave proper thanks to these people! Even voted on the thread! (Excellent!)

Here is a 3rd Gen write up by on of the members here on the forum... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/ps-flush/ps-flush.htm

Yeah... I got a adjustable boost elbow but it needs some work... It doesn't go over 25 PSI... Like my current elbow it varies between 30-32 PSI... I figured if I could reach the 35 mark constantly it would cut just that little bit of pyro heat at WOT... I relize 35 PSI and above its just hot air...

Wow!

When did you flush the power steering system last? (Required every 30K miles) Over a period of time the fluid breaks down and doesn't function as well. If the fluid is dark color (tan to brown) its time for a flush. New fluid is nearly clear to a honey color. Also take note of the smell of it you can tell when P/S fluid is burnt or has been over heated.