Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... How about a brake caliper binding up? I've seen this drop MPG over night but not given the smell of hot brakes... When was the last time you full disassembled the brake calipers and clean and lube the parts (slide pins and such)?

Sounds like starter contacts? Or starter relay in the PDC? Or the Starter relay fuse in PDC? Fuse D or Starter relay http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213 Gasser version of starter contact but the cummins is close to the same... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/693-Starter-contacts

Yeah something isn't right the steering wheel should hold in one position it should re-center after a turn. http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Currently doing exactly that... I've got my stock fuel filter still hooked up and the filter in it... It for the gelling problem more so for me... But as for water problems I've never had any yet...

Ok.. 2 Cents to toss... :2cents:Now as for the pipe/hose ID will detrimine max volume rate of the fuel pump at set pressure. Like in real world example since I worked for a fire dept for 6 yeears it the best way to explain it. Now for the sake of the example the water pressure is going to be set at 80 PSI and equal pressure always. Now take you normal every day 1/2" ID garden hose and fight a house fire... I bet money your going to lose the house. But now some shows up and replaces you hose with a 1 1/2" hose still at 80 PSI and now he's got a fighting chance to save part of the house (more GPM). Now the crew shows up and you switch out for 2 1/2" hose and a partner to help you hold the line. Now the fire it going to be put out...Something with the Cummins fuel system. You got a pump that can put out 15 PSI but the lines are so small the demand exceeds the pump (stock pump and lines) usually shows up as large pressure drop. Now upgrade to 1/2" lines and good strong pump (even stock carter) and now only lose a few PSI from idle to WOT. This is because the pump and plumbing can keep up with the demand. But now change to RV275 and Edge Comp on 5x5 now that stock cater can keep up... so now a 100 ro 150 GPH pump is needed...But for rule of thumb Speed / MPG = GPH so if your traveling 55 MPH divide by 20 MPG should equal 2.75 GPH This is your engine demand rate.. WOT is a whole another ball game the most I see measured is rate around 20-30 GPH

I had another member come up with mechanic high idle that is switch operated... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle2.htm As for a throttle knobs (PTO throttles) you can get those from a Dodge dealer...

Too lazy to do the conversion for it... But thank for confirming...

I had a local machinist measure mine at 6mm ID...

Like I found out high idle alone does do a whole lot for heat... Read the addition info on the bottom of the page on the link above...

AD 100 is the easiest to install yes you can use the stock pickup tube... But if there is any air problems check the quick connector at the stock pickup. AD 150 is a bit tougher being you got to drop the fuel tank to install the drawstraw but final product will handle more load longer... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm

Day late dollar short... Its a great idea but some beat you to it...

My comments are in blue... (Continue..) That truely is a shame when you pride and ego is that large that you can't admit you don't know everything. But is the same sense there is some many voice screaming in a forum of that size how do you know which voice to listen too?? Well rule of thumb I found out is that post number does count as a type of experience counter for newbie that join. They see some one with 4-6K of post and they will tend to believe him if the answers are rational. Like today I'm still getting PM notices from CF.com about old threads that people find of my 11,000+ post I put in. So look as a total newbie stand point toward CF.com... Sure it look like a huge storehouse of information... But after wading though all the BS and trying to find a answer you usually either get mis-lead by a showoff or get the answer by PM'ing a user with high post count. So Now that we are looking forward away from the chaos of the larger forums let turn this around now to making this site more a internet family site of each member helping each other. Lets put our heads together and start drawing up how we all want to see this site... I want to build more write ups but if you got information you want to share on the static side (mopar.mopar1973man.com) let me know and I'll post it up. I would also like to design the site rules to make it fair for all but also have some proper guidelines to control the spammers and un-rulely people. Thing is I see most big site gone commerial (Like CF.Com and DTR.com) were its all about advertising and corp sponsors.... I want this site to stay a family site that is governed by the members within reason... I'm going to stop here and listen for more responses...

I think you mean 2 to 3 PSI...

Well... In all relaity this thread should be closed but there is only 1 reason that I stop from closing it... That reason is while I listen (read) the thread I'm hearing the problem that other sites have had... Then it remind me not to become like this... I want to rise above the crowd and give you all a community that you can enjoy...

I've had enough problem from over at both sites... (CF.Com and DTR.com) So After my few tidbit of problems I went to my site and startyed working at making it better... As for the members here I'm seen several comments about the site being great because there is good level of respect between members here. (Thank you all!)

Looking at the failures of the common rail system which happens to be the injectors most cause by honing from debris that passes through a small orifice inside that cause the it not to seat properly later in life. But still in all I've seen prices ranging from $300 and up per injector for CR truck for a total of $1,800 for a set of re-man stock injectors. Then looking at the VP44 which happens to be the failing point of the 24V Cummins. with the failure of a VP44 based on the fact of lack of lubricity and low fuel pressure that kills them. They only happen to be now $1,100 bucks for a new pump. In either case in stock form I've seen both trucks fail just as quick but of course the CR injectors are more expensive... So what to do to protect what you got? Well the common story that seem to be sung by all shops, dealers, etc is good clean fuel. Most suggest you upgrade from the factory filter 10 micron to a 2 micron if possible. Then in both cases it good to meet the minimum pressure requirement for the CR is 9.5 PSI for the VP44 its 10.0 PSI.Another personal suggestion is a shot of fuel lubricant of some sort. (2 cycle oil, bio-diesel ,etc) In any case the CR engines have a CP3 pump which I got to admit is better that a VP44 but doesn't mean its excluded from the wear list. This pump is only fuel lubricated so if the fuel lubricity can keep up then it starts to wear. But think... There is only a edge filter before the injector... But that doesn't seem to take care of the problem. I better stop now and listen to the other comments...

also be very aware that if you keep driving on wore out injectors it could lead to it just dieing or the engine going into full runaway mode... Don't drive it if you really don't have to be your going to needing to pull the injectors and have the pop tested at least to replace the ones that failed.

3K to 4K is a bit early... Even factory service manual suggest 7.5K miles... I'm changing every 10K but running Frantz ByPass filter... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/frantz-filter/frantz-filter.htm

They look good to me... Descent tread design... But expensive!

1/2" lines are worth it... Yeah the 1/2" AirDog fitting over a stock banjo...

Exactly that... Go to Riggins, ID and enjoy nice weather like today at barely 50*F and then head to McCall, ID and go snowmobiling or skiing...

Here is a map of where I live... Now Riggins, ID is about 1,800 Ft, Pollock is about 2,000 Fr, Home is 2,800 feet, New Meadows, ID is 4,000 and then McCall, ID is right at 5,100... So just going to town (depending on which direction from here could be -20*F (New Meadows) to +20*F (Riggins)

That's if you still got that system hooked up... But I'm not using the stock pickup assembly any longer... But your right the stock pickup assembly does have a screen on it that helps protect the stock lift pump from damage. But the problem with the stock pickup assembly is that the trash remains in the tank to re plug the pickup assembly everytime. Some people have cut out the screen and put in a external filter so when debris is bad they can replace a filter and not have to drop the tank and clean the debris...

Well as for shift points you could look into your line pressures and be sure you getting enough (updated valve body). Then re-do your band adjustment... Head over to the download tab and grab a book there is good information on trans stuff there... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=41 I've got another book to upload so hang around in time I'll get it in...

Typically the return line is hooked to the filler neck of the fuel tank...