Mopar1973Man

Yes sir... Directly plumbed to the back of the gauge for the last 6 years and never had a issues with it leaking in the cab... Still dont...

I normally just bleed the brakes at the wheels... But I've got a mayo jar setup with a vinyl tube going into it... So this allows my to bleed the system by myself. Now for getting air out I've just setup on the farthe wheel (rear right) and worked my way towards the shortest (left front). But now bleeding the system I would push down hard and quickly and let up slowly on the pedal. This action pushes the air bubble down the line with the fluid but keep it from sucking back up the line because of the slow return rate. Here is another write up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/brakes/brakes.htm

It suggested not to do this... Because what is occuring is you slamming the syncros together and forcing the match the speeds under road loads. Must will report that syncro lifespan is shortened...

It doesn't hurt it... But it will keep the fuel system lubed up and retard wear of fuel system related parts. The few times I've used it on a 6.0L you won't notice a huge change but it should become more quiter and a bit smoother running...

Like on Taz's truck I pulled the turbo completely off and cleaned both side exhaust and compressor with brake cleaner then blow dried it with compresed air...

At any rate I would make sure you get all the information about it before you order it... Have them double check the information on it...

No it not sealed up... The fitting just unscrews out of the body... (return line fitting) As for warranty just remove the shim before returning for warranty work...

Correct... The Addon box or programmer alters the data and forces the new values apond the system but the ECM and VP44 are "powerless to change the data"... So in this light the SG II will work just fine because the fueling data and speed data can be calibrated too. Where the stock "Overhead Idiot" is fixed for stock tires, stock gearing, stock fueling, etc... So if you modify any of these things then the overhead idiot fails to report accurate data... Where the SG II can be re-calibrated to the new data...

My master cylinder was leaking internally bleeding pressure off back to the resivoir causing the clutch to re-engage at will... I never had a leak outwards to cause loss of fluid but the seals wore out internally and allow for the pressure to bleed off...

Edge Juice has the gauges and bunches of toyz (high idle, limits, cool down timer, etc.)... But I'm not certain that you could use most of them being its design for Dodge wiring... Where the only 3 connections on a Comp is the VP44, MAP and the CanBus...

OBDII is not required... Its the CANBUS that comes out of the ECM (Cummins protocol)

I would contact Edge Performance and see what they say... I'm sure they could help you out for sure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm Liker my Edge Comp is extremely easy to hook up... 1 lead to the CANBUS near the ECM. 2 leads to the MAP sensor (boost fooler) 1 lead to tap the VP44 2 leads for power and ground. My basic install write up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/edge-comp/edge-comp.htm

If a APPS is bad it will always throw a code P0121, P0122, or P0123... So now go back and check your error codes...

Or the alternator could have a bad diode feeding AC noise in the wiring for the ECM/PCM causing them to wig out...

I would check the alternator and the batteries... I've got a feeling you got a issue in your charging system...

Yes... Because what matters is the GPH (flow rate) and MPH (speed) to make MPG numbers... Edge Drag is tapped like my Edge Comp and everyone thing of just because it tapped that the ECM can't see the signal... This is untrue... The ECM can see the change in signal but can't alter it. So the Edge pushes the fuel pulse forward in time and extends the pulse length. But the ECM still seeing this so it not being lied to really... It being pushed beyond it normal limits.

It cycle the key on-off-on-off-on in less than 5 seconds... It should work...

Kerosene is really hard on the pumps...

The funny part is that the Cummins engine really has very few sensor and things to go wrong... ECM connections... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ecm/ecm.htm Inputs Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) Volts APPS Idle Validation Switches #1 and #2 Battery voltage Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) CCD bus (+) circuits CCD bus (-) circuits Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Data link connection for DRB scan tool (FPCM) Fuel Injection Pump Control Module Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor Ground circuits Intake manifold Air Temperature (IAT) sensor Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (Boost Pressure Sensor) Oil pressure sensor PCM Power Take Off (PTO) Power ground Sensor return Signal ground Water-In-Fuel (WIF) sensor Outputs CCD bus (+) circuits CCD bus (-) circuits CKP and APPS outputs to the PCM Data link connection for DRB scan tool Five volt sensor supply Fuel injection pump Fuel injection pump relay (FPCM) Fuel Pump Control Module Fuel transfer (lift) pump Intake manifold air heater relays #1 and #2 control circuits Malfunction indicator lamp (Check engine lamp) Oil pressure gauge/warning lamp PCM Wait-to-start warning lamp Water-In-Fuel (WIF) warning lamp Another thing to check is the master power connector in the PDC there is 1 bolt that hold it in. This bolt is easy to strip out so be careful of tighten it excessively. Power ground is behind the starter. You'll have to remove the starter to access this connection. You might want to check the status of your alternator and batteries as well. Have the alternator put on a test bench and check the diode pack for function. A bad diode could be leaking noise into the system fouling the ECM and VP44. Check your wiring between the VP44 and the ECM.

Simple enough just take a test light and see if there is power at the 2 heavy leads on the grid heaters when the key is turn on for a cold start... The test light should go out after the WAIT TO START goes out as well. Another way of testing... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1082-Grid-heater-temp..?highlight=grid+heater

Well I did a trip from Cascade, ID to Stanley, ID then down to Boise, ID. This is all winding canyon roads and hill climbing. When i could better I would typically limit out to 55-60 MPH. 153,549 - 153,197 = 352 Miles / 13.915 Gallons = 25.29 MPG (Copied from my fuel logbook)

How to dump error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm 3rd Gen code listing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/error-codes/error-codes.htm As for the 2 cycle oil your a bit strong on mix ratio... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/failure/failure.htm

SGII works fairly well normally gives very close numbers to hand calculated as long as you calibrate it and make sure your spped is dead accurate... These 2 numbers are critcal to getting the SG II to display close to true numbers. Mile Per Gallon Calucation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) = Miles Per Gallon Gallons Per Hour Calculation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Miles Per Gallon = Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) Speed Calculation Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) x Miles Per Gallon = Speed (Miles Per Hour) Now we will use the examples above to calculate MPG form fuel flow and speed. 65 MPH / 4.39 GPH = 14.80 MPG As for my miss... I'm sure it has a lot to do that I got them donated from another member and they already had 400K miles on them... But the funny part is I ran a double dose of 2 cycle oil and the miss is nearly gone! Shocker 2 cycle oil cleaned then up rather well...

Well you beat me now... My top was 25.3 hand calculated... As for the mild offset it could be a slight calibration error or speed calibration is off slightly... Either way it will effect the out come...

Let me correct your error code... P1291 (M) No Temperature Rise Seen From Intake Air Heaters. Problem detected in intake manifold air heating system. Is your grid heaters actually working? I would double check the fusable links in the battery lines and then double check the relays to be sure the voltage is passing the solenoids (bad internal contacts). Then I would phyiscally check the grid heater for a broken elements...