Mopar1973Man

Try the cluster testing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/cluster/cluster.htm

The reason why it doesn't bother me is because the sole fact is if you not hearty enough to live in the back country and be a long way from a big city you not going to make it. There is no cell phones here, no FM radio really, no coffe shop (starbucks), etc. Just miles and miles of wilderness. Maybe that why... When I quit the fire dept I switched hats from fire fighter to Idaho Co. Search and Rescue. Yeah this is what Idaho all about... This is only 4-5 straight line to the highway but there is no big cities, no nothing. Place like these your on your own. There is no cell signal to call for help, even our fire/police radios couldn't reach a repeater tower, and then it might take a skilled ATV rider at least half a day to get out of here. (Notice in the second pic there is no trail or orad anywhere) There is no roads to follow back.

Hey Gang... I got ahold of the local fuel station owner and going to see what information I can get about diesel fuel and the quality and testing the fuel must meet... He said he would look up the shipping invoice and see if he could find any information about pourt point, HFRR, and othe good information. Lets see where this goes...

Hmmm... Just replace the brake light switch since there is no way I know of to adjust the switch... Now is the APPS sensor still showing this .4 volt change all the time or only randomly?

Lots of places... Just happens to be the two local real estate office in Riggins, ID http://www.blevinsrealestate.com/ http://www.salmonriverrealty.com/

Another one I thought of that could be a issue is the brake light switch. This controls locking/unlocking of the TC. I've heard where a lazy pedal could be just enough weight to trip (flicker the brake lights) and cause this lock.unlock weirdness.

Hmmm... Now the fact of the old Edge box was mess up that give a bit of light to the fact of a possible short or simular cause a excessive current draw or loading of the pump. Anything is possible... But I glad to talk to others about the welding issues to verify the thought... As for the overflow valve it doesn't open till 14 PSI so i'm starting to suggest the 14 PSI as a minimum pressure to help in cooling the electronics and keeping the pump happy longer... There is no proof of this yet but I can say my pump is 113K miles and doing good...

Not bad at all... 20.5 MPG is nothing to sneeze at... Wait till you get the summer fuel with lower cetane you should be able to push that number up a bit more!

Dealer is the the only one I know of that is capable of seeing the speed sensors... There is a few SnapOn scanner that can too... As for the price I don't know...

Oh Yeah just been busy web page building... But comments are in blue...

Perfect... The your problem could be with one of the front sensor... The sensor is reading off slighlty causes the ABS to start to fire a bit. Because if the rear sensor had problem you would see the speedometer needle stick at zero or read erratically or show just a bad value. right now the problem is so mild to the ABS computer it not tripping the light but once the difference increase the ABS light will come on and the ABS system will eventually fail completely returning back to old school brake system. On these truck it really easy to lock up all 4 wheels.

ABS light on? P0500 codes? YES Speedometer work or not? How about they other 2 questions?

ABS light on? P0500 codes? Speedometer work or not?

I would plumb a test gauge and check the oil pressure and see what you got... Then replace the stock sender and go from there...

That's funny... I remember day of driving gasser and always though the smell of diesel was nasty... Now gasser really stinks and burns your eyes compared to diesel.

Can you change spark plugs in a gasser? Well it just as easy just different... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm

Smart man... You know the limits of the head gasket and limit your boost properly...

Interesting point there Flman... Might be a good idea to hook a battery disconnect on the system to isolate the truck from the frame... But as for grounds there is several ground under the hood... There is one near the battery on the driver side, there is one behind the starter on the block, and then the common cable that hook to the block... but the dodge FSM would be the best resource for looking up all the grounds...

That why i seen some really weird number on dyno's for older 12V trucks. I've seen were guys have been looking for big boost numbers just to say they got it. But in the long haul their Dyno numbers were poor. But yea with a 24V the sensor do a good part of the job but not all. Still best to get the right turbo for the amount of fuel your spraying. Like myself I know I'm at the end of my rope. RV275 injectors and Edge Comp I would have to upgrade turbo if i went up more. But I would also be looking into a Dual Disc Clutch. Then might be time to look towards ARP studs and fire-ring the head too... The slippy slope of BOMBing your Cummins... Ahhhhh!

Like Mopar Mom said just get me some artwork or even some text I'll create a banner ad for the site and advertise your cottage industry or business... I'm avoiding using Google Ad's and such because i would rather advertise the donating members (Premium and vendors) than a bunch of random ads from Google. So for you vendors on the site build up your group areas with so specials or products to display. As for the premium members get your artwork to me. Like JL welding got his banner here... So you also can build up a group area as well and post up some of your products you produce or sell.

Hmmm... I was going to ask if Cummins was handling it... But they are... Geez...

Strange setup... The upper ball joints have a thread on them and twist out. But is a very strange rounded thread. But now the lower ball joints are smooth shank and are pressed in. Now the funny part is the 1st set of ball joint I got were mis packaged and are too small. So we found one more ball joint with the same number but the right ones... But now waiting for 1 to show up Tuesday from Spokane, WA. I'm going to grab the camera and post some pics later today of the new parts... I know Taz would chime in but he's got limited access to internet currently...

True... But what I was pointing out its possible to degrade the performance with too much boost... In Taz's case he needs more clutch to hold it down now...

I might have to put a mystery switch on Mom's 1996 Truck...

Might check this thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1378-Code-P0753-troubleshooting